How to achieve this pic
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impressive lol
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usually they just set the camera to open the lens for a longer time, and set the lens opening size really low so that way the lens will open for a longer time allowing the camera to capture movement but because its only opening a small diameter the picture wont come out too bright.
And then they just roll at the same speed as the car being pictured and hold the camera steady for the picture.
I dont know if that made sense, its hard to explain.
And then they just roll at the same speed as the car being pictured and hold the camera steady for the picture.
I dont know if that made sense, its hard to explain.
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Well I understand shutter speed for rolling shots, but to me, it seems near impossible to keep the car that sharp while holding the shutter open for a long enough period of time to get that extreme of a blur. Seems like the car would at least be a little blurred from the camera vehicle hitting a bump in the road, or something.
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You can get the rolling shot itself, but quite a bit of that photo looks like it was done in post.
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Idk how but jesus thats a beautiful BMW.
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Normally you mount a boom to the car to get the rolling shot, then edit the boom out in photoshop.
You only need to be going a few MPH to get the effect.
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You only need to be going a few MPH to get the effect.
That is definitely a rig shot, but there is also a heavy edit on the photograph.
This particular photog failed to edit the boom out well. Look specifically at the hood/fender line on the driver side as it approaches the headlamp assembly. It's all flubbed up. You cannot go half way with these rig shots, either you will invest the time to edit or you will fail badly.
The sky is also an edit, you will not light a car on the shadowed side the way this has been done and get a flare of that nature. I'll admit the flare edit is far better than the rig extraction.
The blur looks pretty accurate for a rigged shot. The closer your back drop is, the more motion the frame will feel. If objects are way off in the distance they will not blur as much.
There's some discussion of my rig layout and a shot of it in set up on my bagged suburban here: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/pictures/283400-how-do-you-do.html
Swift, when you extract the car for a faked roller - you gotta watch your edges. The pavement around the tires and the edges where the white paint transition to background are a dead giveaway. I would extract the car in two layers, first one right on the edge via a manual selection at 200% zoom for accuracy, second bump it out 3 pixel widths. of course apply your BG motion blur to the background layer and then phase back in the extracted cars. The 3 pixel bump lays first remove set your eraser to opacity of 30% and erase to the edge of the car as cleanly as possible. Lay your last car extract layer on top of that. Then use your blur tool set to 5% and run it around the edge of the car, not too much, you want to keep as much sharpness as possible.
All of that will stop that tack sharp pavement and paint blur you see around the edge of the car. The rig cuts down on 50-75% of this type of chop time.
This particular photog failed to edit the boom out well. Look specifically at the hood/fender line on the driver side as it approaches the headlamp assembly. It's all flubbed up. You cannot go half way with these rig shots, either you will invest the time to edit or you will fail badly.
The sky is also an edit, you will not light a car on the shadowed side the way this has been done and get a flare of that nature. I'll admit the flare edit is far better than the rig extraction.
The blur looks pretty accurate for a rigged shot. The closer your back drop is, the more motion the frame will feel. If objects are way off in the distance they will not blur as much.
There's some discussion of my rig layout and a shot of it in set up on my bagged suburban here: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/pictures/283400-how-do-you-do.html
Swift, when you extract the car for a faked roller - you gotta watch your edges. The pavement around the tires and the edges where the white paint transition to background are a dead giveaway. I would extract the car in two layers, first one right on the edge via a manual selection at 200% zoom for accuracy, second bump it out 3 pixel widths. of course apply your BG motion blur to the background layer and then phase back in the extracted cars. The 3 pixel bump lays first remove set your eraser to opacity of 30% and erase to the edge of the car as cleanly as possible. Lay your last car extract layer on top of that. Then use your blur tool set to 5% and run it around the edge of the car, not too much, you want to keep as much sharpness as possible.
All of that will stop that tack sharp pavement and paint blur you see around the edge of the car. The rig cuts down on 50-75% of this type of chop time.
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