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Hey guys, thought I would share how to run true duals on your v6 for very cheap. I will try to include everything needed in this posting. For the conversion you need a cutoff saw, four 45 degree exhaust bends, two 2 1/4 aluminized exhaust pipe sections, and two 2 1/4ID adapters. Ill explain this to the best of my ability.

1.You need to get your stangs underside easily accessible. This can be done via lift, ramps, or jackstands. I used a lift.

2.Take a cutoff wheel (Forgot the size I used) and cut behind each catalytic convertor leaving about .5-.75 inches of the original piping coming from the cats.

3.Slide one 2 1/4 ID adapter behind each catalytic convertor on the little piece of pipe I stated to leave on.

4.Weld the adapters to the cats

5.Next, gather your 45 degree bends and put one on each adapter and angle them towards your driveshaft. Weld in place when they angle straight towards the driveshaft.

6.Take two more bends and put them on the 45 degree bends you placed on already so that the end of the last 45 degree bends are pointed straight towards the back of the car. The end of the bend should point straight at the cabins that Ford put under the car for duals.

7.DO NOT WELD the 45's together, you will need to adjust them later.

8.Place your 2 1/4 aluminized piping in the flares at the back of the 45 degree bends. Measure and cut to length so that the tubing passes the cabin for the mufflers slightly so that the piping can go into the muffler for a good seal. weld the straight tubing to the 45 degree bends. At this point, the only point that should not be welded is where the two 45's meet for adjustment.

9.I'm not sure how to explain this, but move the tubing and the last 45 degree bends so they go higher and hug the walls next to the driveshaft. This keeps the mufflers from hanging too low and dragging on lowered cars. Once you get the tubing as high and as close to the wall as you can, weld each set of 45 degree bends together.

Were almost finished, now is the time to add on your mufflers!
Take each muffler and slide it onto each tubing and make sure if you press directly up on the muffler that it goes inside its cabin. when it does, weld it to the tubing.

Now all we need is to add hangers! I cant explain how I did mine, but you can look at the pics and tell I kinda jerry rigged it a little. You need to make sure that when you install hangers that you get your tubing snug against the driveshaft wall, if you don't, it will rattle.

Well, that's my short little writeup, I hope some understand it; I tried my best at explaining it! Heres a parts list along with a few pics of the almost finished product(Hanger on second muffler wasn't finished)

Parts:
-2 1/4 inch exhaust tubing: $12-$20 a piece (I paid 12$ I believe but cant find the link)

-2 1/4 ID adapters: $4 a piece at advance auto

-2 1/4 45 degree bends: $6.50 a piece
Buy Rol Exhaust 45 Degree Exhaust Elbows 548754 at Advance Auto Parts

-Your choice of 2 1/4" muffler

-2 1/4 exhaust clamps (if needed) $3 a piece at autozone
My setup ran about $60 without the flowmasters($220 total plus time). The right side rattles a little because of a rubber wire guard about once every 3-5 drives, but I plan on trimming that soon. With this setup you shouldn't smell fumes inside the car unless you have an exhaust leak somewhere. Dumps have given me no problem, and this setup is pretty loud, but drones like crazy. If you want to hear it check out my youtube channel by searching: ManOfTheWoods100




Keep in mind if you are a huge mandrel bend fan for "power", this setup does not use them. Thats a debatable point anyways.

Thanks,
Justin
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Has anyone found this useful? I was hoping to get a few replies
 

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Nice write up, Blue :yes I've been here quite a while and never seen anyone do a write up for a V6 exhaust install.
 

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Thanks guys! It took me a while to figure out the bends needed to get the piping along the driveshaft wall so that the mufflers could go into their cabins as designed. One of my mufflers is farther back then the other, but I didn't measure a lot, just went by looks and made sure they would go where they were meant to. If you are really picky make sure that you measure your tubing to match eachother. I should be getting tailpipes off of a GT at pick a part this weekend for $7 a piece(Tips will add a lot to cost). I'll let you guys know how it goes! Oh and the Gt tailpipes won't line up exactly with my mufflers. I know because it's a center exit and not offset. I'll have to do some fabricating!
Thanks,
Justin
 

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I just did something similar, had I seen the post prior I definitely would have referred to it a time or two. Nicely done!

Edit: What transmission xmember do you have? Mine looks way different...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have no idea to be honest. I bought the car from a dealership with that crossmember. Sorry! What is the function of it?
 

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:facepalm: I just realized you have a different transmission altogether being that mine is an auto... :screwy:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I mean everyone is always arguing on whether "restriction" in an exhaust system due to bends that aren't mandrel bent or systems with small tubing that causes loss of hp. The backpressure debate. And yeah haha t5 mannual
 

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I mean everyone is always arguing on whether "restriction" in an exhaust system due to bends that aren't mandrel bent or systems with small tubing that causes loss of hp. The backpressure debate. And yeah haha t5 mannual
uneducated believe you require some backpressure. While the educated KNOW that backpressure is always a negative. It's the loss in exhaust gas velocity that drops power. Simple volumetric flow rates from fluid mechanics, really. Although I've never actually heard of it being attributed to non-mandrel bent tubing.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've heard it mentioned a few Times. Just added in that note for reference. Non mandrel bent restricts flow because the piping(say 2.5") becomes 2" in the bend(just a guess). In mandrel bends it would stay 2.5".
 
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