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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
5,218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, two guys asked on how this was done and lets face it - that's a lot on this forum LOL. I've decided to write a full write up on how I personally did it.

Back story - my stock rack started to leak on the driver side taking out my inner tie rod and causing a nice leak. It also caused my OEM pump to start whining, even when I added fluid, so I said you know what? I'm just going to redo everything - new rack, new pump, and all new lines to and from the hydroboost. New everything. In my googling of this, I stumbled upon a guy that said he used a cooler in place of the hard line that comes factory. He said he did this because his pump would start to whine and even give out during hard auto crossing events. I figured if I just spent all this money on all new stuff (and time and cusswords) why not add a cooler to help protect my investment? Heat tends to be the enemy of components so it could only help.

I bought the following items:

Cooler itself. I opted for this cooler because the guy I was copying used this exact one:

AN to 3/8" barb adapters:

Transmission and oil line (do not use fuel line for this. There is different ratings on lines.)

L brackets from home depot

Stuff to wrap the line in to protect is from the sharp edges where it passes through body of the car. Since I got rid of the hard line, soft line now ran through this tiny hole. I didn't want the metal to cut through the line over time so I used this stuff to wrap it and protect it.

Now this is a pretty straight forward mod. Easily done with some time and basic tools. Basically you're getting rid of the hard line that sits behind the bumper that I guess does some type of cooling effect and adding a true cooler to it. It reminds me of the transmission cooler mod I did when I had a ford explorer. (That explorer came with the OEM cooler, towing package cooler, and then a B&M cooler I added. I also added a oil filter remote kit in line so the transmission was also filter by a oil filter. The 4.0 explorers had extremely poor transmissions. Lets just say the transmission outlasted the motor on that truck at 178k miles. I digress)

Anyways, see below. I simply took out the hard line and removed the soft lines that ran to it. I mounted the cooler as center as I could get it behind the bumper and ran new soft lines to it. Use teflon tape on the AN to barb fittings or it will leak! I learned that one the hard way. Use some stainless steel hose clamps then paint everything with black paint. Done. Take it for a test and check for leaks. Physically touch the input and output lines and you'll notice how much cooler the output line is. Feel satisfied :). Below are pictures I took today sitting behind my cobra bumper. If you have questions, ask. It really isn't hard to do. Now when I get my supercharge build done I'll have to remount the cooler elsewhere because of the FMIC, but I have total flexibility on how to mount this thing.

Here is the cooler itself with the lines ran to it. Now that I look at it, I should probably cut that dirt/dust/water guard where the lines pass through better. Looks rough.

You can actually see this through the fog light bezel on my Cobra front bumper. As you can see, its a tight fit as hard lines used to run through there. Now that two soft lines run through there, you can see where I wrapped it to protect it from the sharp edges of the body.

Closer shot of the cooler. Note the L brackets, and the blue adapter fittings. On the L brackets, I reused two holes that were there from the original hard line. For the additional mounting I used a washer and self tapping screws.

Close up of how I attached the L brackets to the car.

Close up of the fittings and how the cooler mounted to the L brackets. I used bolts from Ace Hardware, lock washers and bolts. One on each side. This mod has been on since October of 2017 and no issues.

---------- Post added at 06:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:50 PM ----------

I will say I did this mod with the GT bumper on. Now with the Cobra bumper on all of that was open and exposed. ALL the metal behind the wide opening of the Cobra front bumper has been painted with black caliper paint. The light makes it look worse then it is due to the glossiness of the paint, but it's pretty unnoticable unless you're looking for it. I hope this helps people out! If you want to go crazier with it, B&M and other makes on Summit or the like make some bad ass transmission coolers that'd work great for this. I wasn't sure how much room I had available so I copied someone else who did it and went with the cooler they did. I like the slim design of the cooler and since soft lines run to it, it's pretty flexible on where to mount it ess if you have a FMIC and such. Keep in mind you'll have to cut that dust/water/dirt shield. Do a better job than I did. I believe I was drinking during that time so I didn't care LOL. It looks pretty...ghetto now that I'm showing it to the world.

---------- Post added at 06:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:04 PM ----------

More info on coolers here. As you can see, autoX guys love this mod. Just google it and you'll see plenty of posts on it.

6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
5,218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I didn't realize our cars needed a radiator for our PS.
It isn't something that is needed. This is more of a proactive mod or a mod to help people like autocross guys that are constantly running that pump hard.

Apparently the old cobra Rs and other cars came factory with it. Again cars made to track. It's a simple and fairly cheap mod just to help the power steering system keep cool thus prolonging it's life.

There are power steering fluid filters as well you can get but I have a fluid Evac pump now. I just change the fluid every 20 or 30k miles and call it good. I just get 3 or 4 qts of mercon v at Wal-Mart and pump it.

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