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Discussion Starter #1
Im gonna tackle my clutch job and im wondering how this parts lists looks and if everything listed will work well together, am i missing anything? Also is the aluminum flywheel worth chipping out the extra 100 bucks for or will the steel flywheel be just fine with the RAM HDX clutch? Also will 1 bottle of the royal purple tranny fluid be enough or should i get two of em? I got my tranny fluid flushed about 20k miles ago and im guessing the shop that did it used some OEM cheap stuff and the color was red when i did my short shifter is it too early to switch to royal purple synthetic? What type of grease should i use for the clutch cable/quadrant and do i need any for the clutch bearings?

Sorry for so many questions im starting from ground zero here and learning as i go with my stang but heres the parts list thanks to American Muscle :)

- RAM HDX Clutch (184.99$)
- Ford Racing Performance Throwout Bearing (49.99$)
- Ford Racing Roller Pilot Bearing (11.99$)
- RAM Flywheel Step Dowel Pin Set (9.99$)
- RAM Billet Steel Flywheel 6 Bolt (279.99$) (or aluminum for 100+$??)
- Steeda Adjustable Clutch Cable (44.99$)
- Steeda Quick Release Clutch Quadrant (39.99$)
- Royal Purple Synchromax Tranny Fluid (12.99)
- Total without the maybe factors = 634.92$
- Maybe a Lakewood Heavy Duty Clutch fork if mine appears to be worn out or damaged but hopefully wont need this part (45.99$)
- Maybe some new seals or gasket maker that im gonna need? ATV black or something maybe? (+10$) ??

I'm also thinking about putting in a new X pipe while im at it and i have the old H pipe off so maybe another +499.99 for the Magnaflow tru-X catted midpipe.

Ok now your guys thoughts and ideas for my clutch project pls, thanks! :cool:
 

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It takes like 3.2 quarts and I would recommend the hammer style puller for the pilot bearing. :)
 

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If your replacing the clutch fork you should replace the fulcrum stud/Clutch fork pivot stud.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
IMO I'd spend the extra cash on the aluminum flywheel.
Whats the difference between and two? Also why is the aluminum worth chipping out the extra 100$ for? Im already dropping 600+$ so if the reasons are worth it then im more than willing to drop another 100 to A.M :usa

I dont know what the pilot bearing pullers look like but when i head to Auto Zone to rent one il definitly ask for the hammer style -thanks Wich88. Hopefully i wont need to replace the clutch fork but if i do now il for sure be heading to ford for the new studs -thanks Mike. So far looks like i need 4 bottles of the tranny fluid, holy crap that just got expensive for the fluids lol. Also im gonna order a new shifter gasket for my short shifter.

Also Mike what flywheel did you go with to suite your RAM HDX clutch and how do you like your RAM clutch + STEEDA adj. clutch cable+quadrant? Looks like im going with your setup so i wanna get a before feeling of how others like it/rate it before i get there :D

Thanks for the input fellas, anyone else see anything that im missing or anything else helpfull u can tell me i appreciate it, im starting from ground zero here and im like a sponge soaking up every bit of usefull information and input thats thrown at me. :yes
 

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I just installed the RAM HDX in mine last weekend. I kept the stock flywheel and shift fork.....clutch works good!
 

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I got the stock flywheel resurfaced and reused it. I love my current setup. It feels way way better than stock. Theres no slippage at all, when it grabs it grabs good. FYI the throw out bearing that came with the RAM HDX kit has started chirping after about 2500 miles. so since I'm currently working on my PI swap I'm replacing it with the Ford Racing Throw Out Bearing.
 

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Last time I did mine it was a good deal less than that. I went with FRPP for the flywheel (came with dowels), pilot, T.O., pivot and clutch fork, then a king cobra clutch, and I already had aftermarket quadrant and cable. Your list looks pretty complete though.
 

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wow. thanks for posting. I was planning my clutch while replacing the rear seal this weekend. I had figured on only clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing and front trans seal.

I will look at all this stuff carefully while in there and maybe buy more stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sweet :) Ok so i got one more noob question, where did you guys put the jackstands for your clutch job? I was wondering if the back would be better to support it on the axle or the jacking points in front of the rear tires, and for the front it seems like having the jacks under the frame rails would be close to the tranny and leave little room to work with but where else would u have them in the front or will the frame rails be fine??

Well ima head out to sears tomorrow and get some socket extensions and universal joints for those top tranny bolts and probably end up buying the craftsman 3 ton jack combo with a jack, 2 stands, and the creeper for 150$ ATM i only got a 2 ton low profile jack and 2 ton stands but im planning on using the 2 ton jack to support the tranny when im ready to drop it, should i use 2 jacks for that or will one with a peice of wood on it be fine?

@ zdkel what do you mean by the front trans seal? you got me curious if i need to replace that now to lol im almost replacing every component to the clutch so replacing every thing even down to the little things is almost what im going for i guess.

Also in the plans now is a magnaflow tru-X off road midpipe with mil eliminators :D gonna be breaking my bank with this one but oh well il make back the $$ I wanted to do this for a long long time now and have been so undecisive about catted or non catted but ima just keep my old midpipe for when emissions time comes around every 2 years. Those bolts are so rusted to hell and will be a fun time >.<
 

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Sweet :)

@ zdkel what do you mean by the front trans seal? you got me curious if i need to replace that now to lol im almost replacing every component to the clutch so replacing every thing even down to the little things is almost what im going for i guess.
Where the input shaft goes into the T45 case (I'm guessing) there is a seal. The part was like 6$ from parts store with 5-spd trans seal description, so I bought one. It is just the basic lipped shaft seal. If I have to dissassemble my transmission to get at it I won't do it but just return the part.
 
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I'd like to point out that not only does the aluminum flywheel rev up faster, but it revs down faster too. For that reason some people don't like it on the street. But I can't speak from experience. I bought a billet steel flywheel for 110 shipped off ebay but I haven't installed it yet. Guess I got lucky, I don't see it on ebay anymore. He had a couple.

Also, I didn't see any reference to a 10.5" or 11" clutch. I've gotten the recommendation that the 11" clutch makes a big difference. Something to think about. And whatever flywheel you get will probably support an 11"
 

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Sweet :) Ok so i got one more noob question, where did you guys put the jackstands for your clutch job? I was wondering if the back would be better to support it on the axle or the jacking points in front of the rear tires, and for the front it seems like having the jacks under the frame rails would be close to the tranny and leave little room to work with but where else would u have them in the front or will the frame rails be fine??

Well ima head out to sears tomorrow and get some socket extensions and universal joints for those top tranny bolts and probably end up buying the craftsman 3 ton jack combo with a jack, 2 stands, and the creeper for 150$ ATM i only got a 2 ton low profile jack and 2 ton stands but im planning on using the 2 ton jack to support the tranny when im ready to drop it, should i use 2 jacks for that or will one with a peice of wood on it be fine?

@ zdkel what do you mean by the front trans seal? you got me curious if i need to replace that now to lol im almost replacing every component to the clutch so replacing every thing even down to the little things is almost what im going for i guess.

Also in the plans now is a magnaflow tru-X off road midpipe with mil eliminators :D gonna be breaking my bank with this one but oh well il make back the $$ I wanted to do this for a long long time now and have been so undecisive about catted or non catted but ima just keep my old midpipe for when emissions time comes around every 2 years. Those bolts are so rusted to hell and will be a fun time >.<
I have the Magnaflow off road x pipe and it seemed to be a well made piece. It sure got noticibly louder after I installed it ahead of my Magnaflow catback. I held onto my catted midpipe even though my state does not have inspections because about time I got rid of it they would start or I would have to move somewhere that does them.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I'd like to point out that not only does the aluminum flywheel rev up faster, but it revs down faster too. For that reason some people don't like it on the street. But I can't speak from experience. I bought a billet steel flywheel for 110 shipped off ebay but I haven't installed it yet. Guess I got lucky, I don't see it on ebay anymore. He had a couple.

Also, I didn't see any reference to a 10.5" or 11" clutch. I've gotten the recommendation that the 11" clutch makes a big difference. Something to think about. And whatever flywheel you get will probably support an 11"
Hmmm looks like the clutch im ordering is 10.5" all the clutches in my price range on A.M are all 10.5" aswell but that is a smoking deal for the flywheel! Well im gonna order everything now so no turning back at this point even with the 380$ flywheel >.< oh well im sure it will be more than satisfying once everything is together.

I have the Magnaflow off road x pipe and it seemed to be a well made piece. It sure got noticibly louder after I installed it ahead of my Magnaflow catback. I held onto my catted midpipe even though my state does not have inspections because about time I got rid of it they would start or I would have to move somewhere that does them.
Did you re-use all of your stock nuts and bolts? Mine are so rusted to hell that i went to ford today and spent 84$ on new bolts and nuts and the metal gasket for the passenger side connection. Some of the bolts that i needed were discontinued tho which really blows cuz i wanna have this car for the rest of my life and one day down the road im gonna need em and they just keep discontinuing hardware for the 96 GT :(
 

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You should start buying ARP bolts.
 
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I've been trying to replace all the bolts I've come across. I go up to local hardware, they have everything from stainless to grade 8 bolts. :)
 
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Discussion Starter #19
whats ARP bolts? and crap i didnt even think about heading down to the hardware store, i dont have anything off yet but last time i got under the car i seen that every bolt of the exhaust was just covered in coats of rust. But i just got all the parts ordered which ran me 1,200$ and its a good thing i got em ordered today cuz the clutch started making some seriously loud noises or screams i should say. It almost sounds like a bad serpintine belt its so loud and scream like of a sound it makes me not even wanna drive the stang anymore untill i get this clutch in lol.

Oh ya where did you guys have the front jackstands located? Seems like if i have em under the frame rails its gonna be close to the tranny and get in the way but i dont really know where else i would have the front jackstands at.

Thanks for all the help and input to guys this forum is a lifesaver. +reps :)
 

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I put the stands right next to where the front control arms mount to the k-member.
 
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