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Hows this parts list look for a Clutch Job?

4K views 49 replies 10 participants last post by  zdkel 
#1 ·
Im gonna tackle my clutch job and im wondering how this parts lists looks and if everything listed will work well together, am i missing anything? Also is the aluminum flywheel worth chipping out the extra 100 bucks for or will the steel flywheel be just fine with the RAM HDX clutch? Also will 1 bottle of the royal purple tranny fluid be enough or should i get two of em? I got my tranny fluid flushed about 20k miles ago and im guessing the shop that did it used some OEM cheap stuff and the color was red when i did my short shifter is it too early to switch to royal purple synthetic? What type of grease should i use for the clutch cable/quadrant and do i need any for the clutch bearings?

Sorry for so many questions im starting from ground zero here and learning as i go with my stang but heres the parts list thanks to American Muscle :)

- RAM HDX Clutch (184.99$)
- Ford Racing Performance Throwout Bearing (49.99$)
- Ford Racing Roller Pilot Bearing (11.99$)
- RAM Flywheel Step Dowel Pin Set (9.99$)
- RAM Billet Steel Flywheel 6 Bolt (279.99$) (or aluminum for 100+$??)
- Steeda Adjustable Clutch Cable (44.99$)
- Steeda Quick Release Clutch Quadrant (39.99$)
- Royal Purple Synchromax Tranny Fluid (12.99)
- Total without the maybe factors = 634.92$
- Maybe a Lakewood Heavy Duty Clutch fork if mine appears to be worn out or damaged but hopefully wont need this part (45.99$)
- Maybe some new seals or gasket maker that im gonna need? ATV black or something maybe? (+10$) ??

I'm also thinking about putting in a new X pipe while im at it and i have the old H pipe off so maybe another +499.99 for the Magnaflow tru-X catted midpipe.

Ok now your guys thoughts and ideas for my clutch project pls, thanks! :cool:
 
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#5 · (Edited)
Whats the difference between and two? Also why is the aluminum worth chipping out the extra 100$ for? Im already dropping 600+$ so if the reasons are worth it then im more than willing to drop another 100 to A.M :usa

I dont know what the pilot bearing pullers look like but when i head to Auto Zone to rent one il definitly ask for the hammer style -thanks Wich88. Hopefully i wont need to replace the clutch fork but if i do now il for sure be heading to ford for the new studs -thanks Mike. So far looks like i need 4 bottles of the tranny fluid, holy crap that just got expensive for the fluids lol. Also im gonna order a new shifter gasket for my short shifter.

Also Mike what flywheel did you go with to suite your RAM HDX clutch and how do you like your RAM clutch + STEEDA adj. clutch cable+quadrant? Looks like im going with your setup so i wanna get a before feeling of how others like it/rate it before i get there :D

Thanks for the input fellas, anyone else see anything that im missing or anything else helpfull u can tell me i appreciate it, im starting from ground zero here and im like a sponge soaking up every bit of usefull information and input thats thrown at me. :yes
 
#3 ·
It takes like 3.2 quarts and I would recommend the hammer style puller for the pilot bearing. :)
 
#4 ·
If your replacing the clutch fork you should replace the fulcrum stud/Clutch fork pivot stud.
 
#7 ·
I just installed the RAM HDX in mine last weekend. I kept the stock flywheel and shift fork.....clutch works good!
 
#8 ·
I got the stock flywheel resurfaced and reused it. I love my current setup. It feels way way better than stock. Theres no slippage at all, when it grabs it grabs good. FYI the throw out bearing that came with the RAM HDX kit has started chirping after about 2500 miles. so since I'm currently working on my PI swap I'm replacing it with the Ford Racing Throw Out Bearing.
 
#11 ·
wow. thanks for posting. I was planning my clutch while replacing the rear seal this weekend. I had figured on only clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing and front trans seal.

I will look at all this stuff carefully while in there and maybe buy more stuff.
 
#12 ·
Sweet :) Ok so i got one more noob question, where did you guys put the jackstands for your clutch job? I was wondering if the back would be better to support it on the axle or the jacking points in front of the rear tires, and for the front it seems like having the jacks under the frame rails would be close to the tranny and leave little room to work with but where else would u have them in the front or will the frame rails be fine??

Well ima head out to sears tomorrow and get some socket extensions and universal joints for those top tranny bolts and probably end up buying the craftsman 3 ton jack combo with a jack, 2 stands, and the creeper for 150$ ATM i only got a 2 ton low profile jack and 2 ton stands but im planning on using the 2 ton jack to support the tranny when im ready to drop it, should i use 2 jacks for that or will one with a peice of wood on it be fine?

@ zdkel what do you mean by the front trans seal? you got me curious if i need to replace that now to lol im almost replacing every component to the clutch so replacing every thing even down to the little things is almost what im going for i guess.

Also in the plans now is a magnaflow tru-X off road midpipe with mil eliminators :D gonna be breaking my bank with this one but oh well il make back the $$ I wanted to do this for a long long time now and have been so undecisive about catted or non catted but ima just keep my old midpipe for when emissions time comes around every 2 years. Those bolts are so rusted to hell and will be a fun time >.<
 
#13 ·
Sweet :)

@ zdkel what do you mean by the front trans seal? you got me curious if i need to replace that now to lol im almost replacing every component to the clutch so replacing every thing even down to the little things is almost what im going for i guess.
Where the input shaft goes into the T45 case (I'm guessing) there is a seal. The part was like 6$ from parts store with 5-spd trans seal description, so I bought one. It is just the basic lipped shaft seal. If I have to dissassemble my transmission to get at it I won't do it but just return the part.
 
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#14 ·
I'd like to point out that not only does the aluminum flywheel rev up faster, but it revs down faster too. For that reason some people don't like it on the street. But I can't speak from experience. I bought a billet steel flywheel for 110 shipped off ebay but I haven't installed it yet. Guess I got lucky, I don't see it on ebay anymore. He had a couple.

Also, I didn't see any reference to a 10.5" or 11" clutch. I've gotten the recommendation that the 11" clutch makes a big difference. Something to think about. And whatever flywheel you get will probably support an 11"
 
#16 ·
Hmmm looks like the clutch im ordering is 10.5" all the clutches in my price range on A.M are all 10.5" aswell but that is a smoking deal for the flywheel! Well im gonna order everything now so no turning back at this point even with the 380$ flywheel >.< oh well im sure it will be more than satisfying once everything is together.

I have the Magnaflow off road x pipe and it seemed to be a well made piece. It sure got noticibly louder after I installed it ahead of my Magnaflow catback. I held onto my catted midpipe even though my state does not have inspections because about time I got rid of it they would start or I would have to move somewhere that does them.
Did you re-use all of your stock nuts and bolts? Mine are so rusted to hell that i went to ford today and spent 84$ on new bolts and nuts and the metal gasket for the passenger side connection. Some of the bolts that i needed were discontinued tho which really blows cuz i wanna have this car for the rest of my life and one day down the road im gonna need em and they just keep discontinuing hardware for the 96 GT :(
 
#18 ·
I've been trying to replace all the bolts I've come across. I go up to local hardware, they have everything from stainless to grade 8 bolts. :)
 
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#19 ·
whats ARP bolts? and crap i didnt even think about heading down to the hardware store, i dont have anything off yet but last time i got under the car i seen that every bolt of the exhaust was just covered in coats of rust. But i just got all the parts ordered which ran me 1,200$ and its a good thing i got em ordered today cuz the clutch started making some seriously loud noises or screams i should say. It almost sounds like a bad serpintine belt its so loud and scream like of a sound it makes me not even wanna drive the stang anymore untill i get this clutch in lol.

Oh ya where did you guys have the front jackstands located? Seems like if i have em under the frame rails its gonna be close to the tranny and get in the way but i dont really know where else i would have the front jackstands at.

Thanks for all the help and input to guys this forum is a lifesaver. +reps :)
 
#22 ·
A swivel will be your friend to get at the passenger side header flange bolts. I'd invest in an impact swivel not a regular elbow.

Also, the starter is a pain in the ass (if you've never take it off before) I recommend a small 3/8's inch ratchet, Cant remember the socket size.

Oh yeah, you'll wanna take the O2 sensor out to get to the header flange bolts (even with swivel) I think it's a 7/8's wrench needed.......??
 
#26 · (Edited)
Impact swivel as in for an impact gun? I dont have an impact gun i usually use a ton of pb blaster and all the elbow grease i can muscle up lol but i think my dad might have one i can snag from him if thats what your talking about but as for regular universal sockets i got a couple of those and some 6" and 10" extensions. Hmmm 7/8's? not sure if i have one of those or if i even seen a 7/8's wrench, only like 3/8's 7/16's and the other common ones but if it really is a 7/8's il for sure grab one so i dont strip any fasteners! better to have the right tool then to be buying fasteners everytime thx!

wow that video definitly schooled me on how nuts and bolts work, i never even knew that they dont actually torque down to the right pounds like that without some lube thats crazy i wonder if auto zone would have that special ARP torque lube or if its only sold on there website. thanks for the link that video was some great information i never knew about!


Edit: Small update and ofcourse A.M has to be out of stock of the RAM HDX clutch and the steeda adj. clutch cable and the steeda clutch quadrant which are probably the 3 most important items i need from the order since my clutch is squealing loud as hell now like a bad serpintine belt so il have to wait two weeks or more for them to get it back in stock and send it to me but i guess untill then il be putting on the new X pipe with the new bolts from Ford and re-using the ones that they discontinued, guess il clean em all up with some rust cleaner or if something else delays me il see about getting some new ones from ARP its only 2 sets that i need for the manifold connection and the catback connection but the new midpipe has the cat back connection bolts threaded on already but i would still like some new ones for my old H pipe for when emissions time comes around which should be this november for men cuz any leaks would be a fail and a waste of money for the test. You guys are so helpfull tho im learning so much on these forums thx a bunch fellas much appreciated!

Also is there any list of the complete torque specs for everything on a 96 GT??? or atleast most of the stuff iv only found a list on muscularmustangs which only lists most engine stuff.

Sorry another question but when i disconnect the driveshaft from the differential will it leak differential fluid? and if so how do i prevent the diff fluid from leaking so i dont have to buy the diff fluid, im thinking about taking everything off and getting everything ready but i wanna know every bit of info needed before i start taking things apart.
 
#23 ·
ARP makes high quality long lasting bolts, studs fasteners, etc. They also sell this fastener assembly lubricant that I bought and its sweet.
 
#27 ·
DO NOT GET A RAM CLUTCH!!! those things are complete garbage... I installed one last year and within a week the fingers had already warped and destroyed the TOB. You get what you pat for and if you buy a cheap clutch (RAM HDX) your going to regret it. I recommend a ZOOM clutch for summit racing. They are serious quality and you can get a good one rated at 600HP for around 250-300$. Also a steel flywheel for RAM is good. I have one and its great. Unless you plan on going to the strip every weekend you dont need an aluminum one.
 
#28 ·
What? I've had my RAM HDX for 2500+ miles and its hasnt given me any problems. The only problem ive had so far is the throwout bearing that came with the kit is starting to chirp. I am in the middle of a PI swap and have the RAM HDX clutch kit sitting in front of me and the pressure plate looks brand new. It sounds like your pressure plate bolts may have started backing out or werent torqued properly and thats why your fingers warped. Did you break in the clutch like RAM specified?
 
#29 ·
The differential will not leak fluid when you unbolt the u-joint from it.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Dont worry man you should be fine. The only problem ive had with my RAM HDX is the throwout bearing was starting to chirp. I broke the clutch in the way ram specified and once the break in period was over I drove it pretty hard and never had problems. I have my engine and tranny out right now and the pressure plate looks perfectly fine. You can see where the throwout bearing contacted the pressure plate fingers and it looks perfectly even. I havent seen the ARP Torque Lube at any auto parts stores. I ordered mine online. Oh, and no the differential wont leak when you unbolt the driveshaft.
 
#32 ·
You know what, even If just one bolt on the pressure plate backs out, It looks like the fingers are warped. Thats probably what happened to 97Roush. Just follow RAMS installation instructions when you get it.
 
#34 · (Edited)
Awsome thanks guys good to hear it wont leak the differential fluid and holy crap i didnt realize how long the driveshafts were untill i got my baby up on 4 jackstands today. Also it just sounds like the RAM clutch is a hit or miss maybe you and a few others got a defective product or something but other than that ive read nothing but good reviews on A.M and from people on here so it really cant be that bad. I just ordered some ARP lube also and most of the parts are on the way oh man i cant wait!!! Just blows i have to wait 2-3 weeks for the RAM clutch and steeda products but il be more than ready for them by then and i should have everything to where i can just put them in and start putting her back together!
 
#35 · (Edited)
Dreaded H pipe and o2 sensors are off and tranny fluid is drained, driveshaft bolts are off thanks to some leg power on the 12mm wrench, arms just couldnt do it with a little 6" long wrench but now i cant get this damn thing off... been trying to push it towards the differential and pull the yoke out of the tranny but it doesnt budge that much, anyone know a trick to get the driveshaft off? Thx.
 
#36 ·
I had to spray mine with PB Blaster then work it loose with a soft faced mallet.
 
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