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Wax on, Wax off
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So, if you did not know, I decided to make friends with a Bard Wired fence a month ago. Granted, the Fence was not very friendly.

Well, I finally got my car back the other day. It only took the guy 4 WEEKS to do three body panels... When I picked it up I did not see anything wrong. However today, in better light, I have found some disturbing things, mostly on my front bumper.

Another thing is the rough texture on that side of the car. He says its the remains of a "spray mask"? He said buffing will get if off, so I plan to test this out soon.

I will let the pics speak for themselves:

Front Bumper:

The front was damaged only on the driver side. The plan was to fill in the scratches, repaint that side blending it into the rest, and re-clear the whole bumper.

Issues:













As you can see, there some major problems. It almost looks like the clearcoat did not lay down correctly. Its rough to the touch. The areas around the foglight looks really bad and rough. Its obvious he did not take the bumper off the car, so I bet he did not get good access to these bottom areas.

My first thought was to wetsand with 3000 grit and buff. So, tonight, I did a small amount of wetsanding. Here are the results of JUST wetsanding. I may be able to buff it tomorrow, but I have to get ready for a trip to FL:





As you can see, its better, but far from good. Hopefully buffing will bring it back out.


Also, another issue is that some areas of the paint OBVIOUSLY did not lay down smooth. See for yourself:





Thats on the Fender and new GT Rear bumper. Both of which were painted by the same guy.

I attempted wetsanding the fender:




SO.......

My questions for paint people:

  1. Front Bumper... What the HELL is this? Did the clear not lay down correctly? Did he just not sand it enough?
  2. Front Bumper... Whats the best way to get this fixed? Does it need to be re-painted?
  3. The Spray Mask... does it really leave a rough texture on the paint?
  4. Spray Mask... will simple buffing (polish or compound) remove it?
  5. Should I kick this guy's ass?

I plan to contact him and show him these pics. Either he is paying for a shop to fix it, or he is doing it again... correctly... for free.
 

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Wax on, Wax off
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Discussion Starter #2
Come on guys, i'm dieing over here Lol...
 

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Did he do this in a parking lot?
 

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I haven't read the entire post because I'm pretty busy right now. I have painted quite a few projects, one of which is in the garage right now. Also, the pics aren't of the best quality for me on this computer but I can offer some advice.

1) It appears the painter didn't lay the clear coat on great. It could mean that he sucks at painting, had poor conditions, etc, etc.

2) IMO, after prep, laying the clear coat for me is where most problems occur. This is where bugs, debris, etc effect the process most since, between each base coat, you can tack cloth the paint to lift dirt, debris. During the clear coat process bugs, dirt, etc can not be wiped off.

3) Because clear coat is the most common place to receive imperfections, most painters will lay the clear on very heavy. If you have the base coat on solid with complete coverage, the next process is the "cutt & buff".

4) Cut & buff = sanding the clear coat anywhere from 800 - 3000 grit. The painter will "block sand" the clear coat which levels the clear and removes the debris in between. After the sanding is preformed, the buffing begins. After buffing, the paint should look like hazy glass.

5) Polishing, is the last step in a fresh paint job. This will remove buffing scratching and the paint will now be mirror finish with no "orange peel" effect.

6) 3 - 4 month later, sealing and waxing of the fresh paint is done.

LIKE I SAID BEFORE, this is a very quick and dirty run down.

It's possible you can buff and polish most of that stuff out. If the painter laid the clear on thick you should have no worries about hitting the paint during this process but you're definitely going to want to do your homework on each of these procedures.

The problem that now lays with you is this.

If the painter delivered you a vehicle in this condition after that amount of time, you may have a **** job. If you attempt to cutt, buff and polish this vehicle yourself, especially without having an idea of how much clear the painter has applied, and break through the clear you will definitely have a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did he do this in a parking lot?
He does most small jobs in hid garage with exhaust fans. He told me he would atleast. However, its obvious he never took the parts off the car. So, he most of done this in his driveway which I am pissed about.

I haven't read the entire post because I'm pretty busy right now. I have painted quite a few projects, one of which is in the garage right now. Also, the pics aren't of the best quality for me on this computer but I can offer some advice.

1) It appears the painter didn't lay the clear coat on great. It could mean that he sucks at painting, had poor conditions, etc, etc.

2) IMO, after prep, laying the clear coat for me is where most problems occur. This is where bugs, debris, etc effect the process most since, between each base coat, you can tack cloth the paint to lift dirt, debris. During the clear coat process bugs, dirt, etc can not be wiped off.

3) Because clear coat is the most common place to receive imperfections, most painters will lay the clear on very heavy. If you have the base coat on solid with complete coverage, the next process is the "cutt & buff".

4) Cut & buff = sanding the clear coat anywhere from 800 - 3000 grit. The painter will "block sand" the clear coat which levels the clear and removes the debris in between. After the sanding is preformed, the buffing begins. After buffing, the paint should look like hazy glass.

5) Polishing, is the last step in a fresh paint job. This will remove buffing scratching and the paint will now be mirror finish with no "orange peel" effect.

6) 3 - 4 month later, sealing and waxing of the fresh paint is done.

LIKE I SAID BEFORE, this is a very quick and dirty run down.

It's possible you can buff and polish most of that stuff out. If the painter laid the clear on thick you should have no worries about hitting the paint during this process but you're definitely going to want to do your homework on each of these procedures.

The problem that now lays with you is this.

If the painter delivered you a vehicle in this condition after that amount of time, you may have a **** job. If you attempt to cutt, buff and polish this vehicle yourself, especially without having an idea of how much clear the painter has applied, and break through the clear you will definitely have a problem.

Thanks for the informative post.

I am very knoledgeable about painting and buffing (I live in the detail section). I have already started wetseanding with 3000 grit. I have also made two compound passes. It has cleared this up a great deal, but its still there.

I am taking the car to a good friend who knows his stuff about body work and have him look at it. Maybe he will know what it is. I have yet to make contact with the painter.
 

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He does most small jobs in hid garage with exhaust fans. He told me he would atleast. However, its obvious he never took the parts off the car. So, he most of done this in his driveway which I am pissed about.




Thanks for the informative post.

I am very knoledgeable about painting and buffing (I live in the detail section). I have already started wetseanding with 3000 grit. I have also made two compound passes. It has cleared this up a great deal, but its still there.

I am taking the car to a good friend who knows his stuff about body work and have him look at it. Maybe he will know what it is. I have yet to make contact with the painter.
Yeah, I figured you knew your stuff, I've admired a lot of your detailing expertise. One thing I would like to also mention, more to the inexperienced, you must pay special attention to bumpers and flexible parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I took it to my friend's and we looked it over.

I have found 17 spots on the car that have issues. They range from over spray to paint drips to unsmooth layering. I labeled them all and took pics in the garage. Gonna take some more pics later this week in the sun.

If he does not offer to pay for this to be fixed, I'm taking him to Civil Court. He is going to cost me more money to get all this fixed. Thursday I am going to go by two body shops and get estimates for how much it would be to fix all this.

Part of me wants to just make him fix it, and part of me wants to tell him to pay someone else to fix it. What would you do?

He has made me need MORE work...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ya, belive I am. Gonna get atleast two quotes as well.

Sigh... I hope I can get this fixed in time for my first car show in May.
 

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Still not able to get in touch with him...
 

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looks like it just needs wetsanded with a rougher grit, id start around 1k and move up from there.

the guy who painted my sisters car did a terrible job rubbing the car down so i now have to go over the whole car and wetsand. i already hit the hood and its a mirror now.
 

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What's this Photoshop?
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SO.......

My questions for paint people:

  1. Front Bumper... What the HELL is this? Did the clear not lay down correctly? Did he just not sand it enough?
  2. Front Bumper... Whats the best way to get this fixed? Does it need to be re-painted?
  3. The Spray Mask... does it really leave a rough texture on the paint?
  4. Spray Mask... will simple buffing (polish or compound) remove it?
  5. Should I kick this guy's ass?

I plan to contact him and show him these pics. Either he is paying for a shop to fix it, or he is doing it again... correctly... for free.
[/LIST]
Appears he might have "dry sprayed" the clear. Too light of coats.

Spray masks i've seen are removed by water. No buffing needed, at least on the 3m spray mask. Suppose to be a time saver instead of having to paper and mask.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
looks like it just needs wetsanded with a rougher grit, id start around 1k and move up from there.

the guy who painted my sisters car did a terrible job rubbing the car down so i now have to go over the whole car and wetsand. i already hit the hood and its a mirror now.
Theres problems that can't be fixed with the sanding. Plus, he did not do some of the things I was told he was gonna do.

Appears he might have "dry sprayed" the clear. Too light of coats.

Spray masks i've seen are removed by water. No buffing needed, at least on the 3m spray mask. Suppose to be a time saver instead of having to paper and mask.
It takes 1-2 passes with a compound to get it off. Makes me wonder if its really overspray.

He finally contacted me. Told me he washed his phone and was having problems even texting... yet he procedded to have a conversation with me over text.

Now I am waitting for a call back number so I can TALK to him lol... this guy is a piece.
 

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Theres problems that can't be fixed with the sanding. Plus, he did not do some of the things I was told he was gonna do.
Do you have a contract stating in detail what was suppose to be done? This way you can prove what was supose to get done and didnt.

If that was my car, I would take it back to him. I would sit in his driveway until he came home. I would tell him that he can either fix it himself or have someone else do it. If it's not good when he's done, he'll keep having to do it until it's perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Nope, was all verbal. I have someone who was there when it was agreed upon however.

I don't know... part of me does not want him to touch the car, yet part of me says yes so I don't have to deal with any legal issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Talked to the guy..

It was agreed upon that he would fix the car. The plan is I will bring him the parts already removed from the car. He will then take them to a paint booth (finally) and re-spray them.

He said, and I quote "They will look like a mirror". They better...
 
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