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Yut Yut Devil Dog
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I used the search thing, and read quite a bit of the threads, but honestly there are just so many, and I am more confused now than I was before.
I want to use the Mothers Clay kit, because it is not expensive, and I hear good things about it. Now, my car is black, and I want it to get that "always wet" look to it. I have A LOT of swirls, and a few scratches. after the clay bar, what should I follow with and what is the "ideal" buffer to get, I don't want to buy one from an auto parts store because the RPMs those have are around 3500+ and I hear that is way too high.

I was thinking about claying, and then following with the Black Box...

I AM SO CONFUSED!!! HELP ME CHOOSE! PLEASE!!!
 

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Yut Yut Devil Dog
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
There was a post somewhere on here I tried to find, someone was showing us how to show ready their car. I tried to find it I couldn't. That person had a Black Mustang also, and had a REAL DEEP look to it afterwards...
 

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if you want to get a cheap clay kit then just buy the clay seperate and create your own clay lube with 1-1/2oz car wash soap and fill the rest with water in a 32oz bottle...instead of using a quick detail spray or the clay lubes they sell.

if your finish has tons of swirls anyways and also has heavy surface contamination then i would suggest using a blue (mild) clay bar. there is also a red clay bar which is most aggressive..but if your finish isnt too bad then the white bar that comes with the kit would be fine. run your hand across a clean car while your hand is in a plastic bag and feel for bumps to gauge how severe the contaminants are more aggressive clay bars can mar the paint slightly in spots which is why the car is usually polished after using an aggressive clay. always make sure you use plenty of lube and flip and fold the clay frequently to a clean side

im not quite sure which buffer your speaking of but the random orbitals you can buy at autozone or wherever are most likely not in the 3500rpm range

the reason the car you saw had a really deep finish is because it was free of any surface contamination and swirls that would otherwise cloud the paint and not let it shine through as clear.

a pretty standard issue DA (dual action) polisher is the Porter Cable 7424XP. dual action means that it goes in a circle AND oscillates in smaller circles inside the larger circle. Faster polishers to use for polishing are rotary polishers which move in a perfect circle and will remove paint much faster than a DA polisher but dont take one of those to your car unless you have adequate experience with it first

i am no expert on paint correction at all and i am just getting my own PC7424xp but all that i am telling you is just general information. But to get professional results you need professional products. I.E not products from any local autoparts store. generally you would use a mild polish followed by a finishing polish, then a paint cleaner, then a sealant to protect your new finish which can be left alone or topped with carnauba. i wont give you any directions or tips for polishing because i am just learning myself

check out We Are Car Care -- Car Wax, Car Polish, Auto Detailing Supplies, Car Buffers & Car Accessories Store for all further information you would need on the topic as well as products
 

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I would not get the Mothers Clay kit. The Meguiars Clay kit it better the clay they use is better quality and will pick up above surface contaminates better. You can pick this up at any automotive store or walmart for like $20 and it comes with Meguires quick detailer, two clay bars, case for them, and their supreme shine microfiber towel. If you want a quality clay better than that I suggest clay magic it's the originator and will leave your finish extremely smooth. For lubricant I use Chemical Guys Sythntheic Quick Detailer at 2 parts QD to one part filtered water. I get my products from DetailedImage.com or Autogeek.com. Here is a link showing you how to clay (see bottom of post). As for a buffer that is better than the ones from your auto parts store the standard entry level buffer is the Porter Cable 7424XP its a great machine and is less likely you burn through your paint since it is a Dual action polisher Bullitt ak already went into detail so I wont repeat the same thing. Hopes this helps out man. Once you decide about paint correction items (pads, polishes, protection, towels, etc.) let me know I can help you make some decisions since your starting out on this.

How To Properly Use a Clay Bar – Detailed Image
 

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Wax on, Wax off
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Even tho the search function is good, you still need to be sure you look at the stickies. If you want a BASIC list of products to start some major detailing, look at this:

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/general-car-care-detailing/148525-machine-polishing-items-get-started.html

I always use the Meguire's Smooth Surface kit. Its like $15 at walmart. Comes with two bars and the detail spray/lube.

If you have a ton of swirls, then you are not going to get that "wet" look without some paint correction. Like the others said, the standard polisher is a Porter Cable 7424XP. To get that wet look (this is majorly simplifed) you need to wash, clay, multi-step polish, glaze, wax.

So... if you clay the car and follow with a good wax, it will help. However to get that wet look it takes a lot of work and money.
 

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Any updates on how your claying session went man and what you purchased?
 

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Yut Yut Devil Dog
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
haha... nah, still haven't done it. waiting for one of my friends to let me use their garage... I am NOT doing that outside... but, I'm gonna buy the Mothers Clay Kit, still haven't decided on the wax and all the other "after care" products...

you have no idea how indecisive I am when it comes to my car...
 

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haha... nah, still haven't done it. waiting for one of my friends to let me use their garage... I am NOT doing that outside... but, I'm gonna buy the Mothers Clay Kit, still haven't decided on the wax and all the other "after care" products...

you have no idea how indecisive I am when it comes to my car...
Still going with the mothers kit :no just kidding man as long as you clay it, also are looking for quality products or some decent over the counter ones?
 

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Wax on, Wax off
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haha... nah, still haven't done it. waiting for one of my friends to let me use their garage... I am NOT doing that outside... but, I'm gonna buy the Mothers Clay Kit, still haven't decided on the wax and all the other "after care" products...

you have no idea how indecisive I am when it comes to my car...
You can clay outside as long as you do it in the shade. Its not as hard as you think... it does not get "hard" until you start doing paint correction :).
 

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Yut Yut Devil Dog
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Still going with the mothers kit :no just kidding man as long as you clay it, also are looking for quality products or some decent over the counter ones?
some quality, but also I don't wanna spend $40 on a little 20g piece of clay... I want enough clay to do my car...

...and I don't wanna take the chance of doing it outside...
 

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...and I don't wanna take the chance of doing it outside...
i have almost always clayed in the sun or atleast outside and have never had any problems. you can clay your car usually in an hour or less

just get the kit. you really only need to clay every 6 months or before any machine polishing, unless it obviously needs to be clayed otherwise. dont buy $40 bars of clay...if you dont detail cars every day then you dont need to get the 8oz bars...just buy the kit every time you clay your car would be your best bet
 

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some quality, but also I don't wanna spend $40 on a little 20g piece of clay... I want enough clay to do my car...

...and I don't wanna take the chance of doing it outside...
I have never seen clay at $40 or at such a small amount not sure if your exaggerating or you have actually seen clays priced that high. Either way here is a link for a good clay in a good amount for a great price. Also every time I clay my car which I just did today because I'm finally doing my paint correction I do it outside. What claying does is it removes above surface contaminates that are on your finish. It removes them safely with the lubrication so if a little dust falls on the surface it will be picked up by the clay bar and the detail spray just keep folding the clay bar are you move from section to section. If it makes you feel better do it inside in the shade and with the garage closed.

DI Accessories Gentle Fine Grade Clay - 200 g | Detailed Image
 

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Yut Yut Devil Dog
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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
wow... that's a big bar. *that's what she said* anywho, have you used their clay before? and is it really worth it to use their "recommended" lube?

+ that porter cable is like $125... I'm sure it's worth it, but Jesus... ok, I will order your clay Danny, I found a package with that 200g clay and a spray lube. Is there a less expensive buffer???
 

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I use Clay Magic clay but the DI clay is made by the same manufacturer that Clay Magic is made from it even say it in the description, so most likely is that same thing. As for lube you can get just the regular Meguiars Quick detailer spray or Meguiars M34 Spray. Or you can also get this kit which is another great kit with enough clay and the lube is included and its only like 5 more bucks.

Automotive Clay Bar Overspray Eraser Bar

As for the the Porter Cable 7424XP only get it if your willing to invest your time and money into this remember you would still need your polishes different stages, sealant or wax or both, pads, an HD backing plate, quality microfiber towels, glaze (optional), 3M blue masking tape, etc. Its alot of items and it will not just be $125 more like $350-400 or more so if $125 already seems steep for you. I suggest just claying your car and getting a quality sealant or carnuba wax and leave the correction for a later date, when your willing to invest the time and money man. As for other polishers there are several out there that cost less but will not produce the results you are looking for. There are rotary polishers out there for less than the PC that will provide good results but keep in mind that since your a beginner you will most likely either burn through your finish or leave holograms in it. That is why usually most of us start with the PC or equivalent DA polisher not a rotary until you get better then you move up to a rotary buffer.
 
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