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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys

ive spent alot of time surfing the web trying to find a way to ID heads that are attached to the engine WITHOUT taking them off

Do any of the casting numbers stamped on top mean anything?

My block is an 86 HO roller cam but has been modified with edelbrock performer intake and 670 carby (previous owner) so im just trying to work out what the heads are. I know that they are factory ford and im guessing '86 heads which i know are garbage but i wouldnt mind knowing for sure without pulling them off .. kinda "if it aint broke dont fix it" mentallity. the engine runs well and has a nice note to it so i dont want to medle with it just yet. But i wouldnt mind knowing what the castings mean..

one side has 6A9 and the other has 6A7 (im sure its a 6 and not a G) stamped on the inside at the top when i take the valve covers off. There are some other letters or numbers stamped in a circle fashion but its soo unreadable. There is also a weird font of "C P" stamped inside.

Theres also an S and a 2 stamped on one corner and S and 5 on the other corners on top that you can see even with the valve covers on.

I know E7TE stamped onthe underside are better and i think e6SE is the crappy ones but short of pulling them off do the above castings at least give an indication of year?

seems to be a common theme in the numbers and letter S and 6 .. safe to say they are E6 heads?
 

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The part number is on the underside of the head. You need to pull the upper intake and use a mirror to find it. The quick way is pull a spark plug and check the threads in the head. If the threads start at the top, theyre E7. If the threads dont start until theyre further down, theyre E6. Thats the only way ive been able to tell without pulling the heads or the upper intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The part number is on the underside of the head. You need to pull the upper intake and use a mirror to find it. The quick way is pull a spark plug and check the threads in the head. If the threads start at the top, theyre E7. If the threads dont start until theyre further down, theyre E6. Thats the only way ive been able to tell without pulling the heads or the upper intake.
thanks mate! ill check it out soon. i forgot to mentiont that my upper and lower intake is off at the moment but being the heads are already on the block i was under the impression that the stamping is on the underside and i dont really want to take the heads off just for that considering down the track i will go aftermarket anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok looks like they dont start until further down so they must be E6.. i would say that casting number i quoted ontop of the head has some year relevance considering they both start with a 6 .... saying that i was given what i think are E7 heads (off an 88 engine that the efi holley intake and novi 2000 came off that i have now) .. when i have them in my possession ill be sure to check the casting number to make sure they are E7's .. would it be worth the effort to change to those heads... those heads have been sitting for a while (on the engine) and the local engine guy wants nearly as much as aftermarket heads in labour to get them up to scratch .. so im debating is it worth just bolting straight on with a few home checks and clearances or just leave whats on there (E6) and just bolt aftermarket heads on there in say 6-12 months when i can save up..

dont want to do things twice ..

im new to the 5.0 scene but learning heaps.

suggestions or advice?

i guess a run down of what i had and going to ..

86' HO with edelbrock performer and 670 holley and AOD mild cam (came with my 67 fb like that)

bought from a friend (basically giving it away) novi 2000, holley efi systemax, steeda fuel gear and cartech 5.0 airbox. he threw in the what i think are E7 heads based on the year the block is and lots of bits he doesnt want for the engine it came off (he has other plans for that engine)

so ill be attaching these to my engine now.

Down the track i intend on 347 or 363 stroker with the above new gear but a DART block and aftermarket heads cam etc..
 

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I think you are looking at very very minimal gains, especially with a blower. You are better off, IMHO, saving the money you'd spend on the swap and putting that towards a set of decent aftermarket lids.
 

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I think you are looking at very very minimal gains, especially with a blower. You are better off, IMHO, saving the money you'd spend on the swap and putting that towards a set of decent aftermarket lids.
thats what my gut tells me .. thanks for the reply... Ill just leave it how it is and enjoy driving it around etc until i save for some aftermarket heads etc

thanks again i thought id just ask and see what others think
 

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thats what my gut tells me .. thanks for the reply... Ill just leave it how it is and enjoy driving it around etc until i save for some aftermarket heads etc

thanks again i thought id just ask and see what others think
I think it's one of the "ain't broke don't fix it" situations man, could it be better? Of course. I doubt anyone here is completely satisfied with every aspect of their engine. But if she's a running, driving, boosting car and she gets from A to B with enough quickness to keep you grinning... Start a build plan, shop around, research and collect parts. Once you have everything you need to do it right the first time, THEN pull the trigger and down the car. I followed my own advice, and while it hurts that my once daily driver hasn't moved under its own power in a little over a month, I know when she's rolling again she will have a healthy long and fast future.
 

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I think it's one of the "ain't broke don't fix it" situations man, could it be better? Of course. I doubt anyone here is completely satisfied with every aspect of their engine. But if she's a running, driving, boosting car and she gets from A to B with enough quickness to keep you grinning... Start a build plan, shop around, research and collect parts. Once you have everything you need to do it right the first time, THEN pull the trigger and down the car. I followed my own advice, and while it hurts that my once daily driver hasn't moved under its own power in a little over a month, I know when she's rolling again she will have a healthy long and fast future.
yeah i agree thats why i mentioned that exact phrase .. i think if the idea is to go a stroker but use a dart block then essentially im building a new engine from scratch really arent i so then ill focus my money on that on the side HOWEVER .. if i there is a middle ground whereby the aftermarket heads that would suit the 302 in its "now" form to really help it breath better (unsure if completely stock inside but its a HO motor and i "think" a mild cam) BUT ALSO be able to use those same aftermarket heads with my NEW build then at least i can cross over and reuse the same heads, intake, blower etc. and if not then ill just leave the heads purchase for a newer build

like you said better to do it once etc.. AFR tell me with my combo the 165s would work well .. although from what i have read and some other advice elsewhere 185s would be better with the blower for more flow and lower compression ?? im new to this side of things so still researching and while i dont doubt AFRs recommendations i think 185s could work well too and be able to be used when i cross over to the 331/347/363 type scenario ..

but anyway im thinking way ahead in the future .. i think ill be happy with the boost on my engine as it is ... until i get sick of it and want more power!!!! :D

thanks again!!
 
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