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^ exactly. The stock harness won't plug into the 340 pump? I thought it would. But yea, if not pull the whole hat away from the assembly.

Drill a couple 7/8" holes in front of the basket too.
 

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He's running one of our AEM 320lph pumps.

It's about $50 cheaper and all it requires is you to connect 2 wires to it. It's a very simple install.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Okay so I got everything attached but the pump is taller than the basket (obviously) what should I do to connect the line to it?



Should I cut the back portion off?
Front portion?


I haven't cut off the bottomif the basket, only dremeled out where the pump sticks out.

Also is there a key to getting this clamp off for the pprv delete? I've tried everything and can't seem to figure out how to be smarter than the clamp :dunce:


---------- Post added at 05:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:01 PM ----------

Why is it I can find all the install threads in the world, then when I need them they're nowhere to be found :mad:

---------- Post added at 06:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:25 PM ----------

Would it be possible to make my own slotted MAF sensor by drilling a hole and mounting the existing sensor that way?
 

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not sure if this even answers what your asking but yes cut the bottom of the lid for the basket...you should be able to see where its hitting and just cut it down a bit
 

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Did you cut the lid of the basket so much that the pump can be pulled up through it?

In my thread are details on the submersible fuel line you need to go buy and what to do with all the extra parts. Basically you murder that clamp to get it off then buy new fuel line clamps that are smooth rather than standard worm gear clamps that will cut into the new rubber hose.


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Discussion Starter #33
not sure if this even answers what your asking but yes cut the bottom of the lid for the basket...you should be able to see where its hitting and just cut it down a bit
I'm asking what to do with the pprv line since the pump sits too high to use both the pump and the whatever tube that has the filter. If that makes sense. The third picture, what do I do to it to make it work?
Read 02sonicgt build thread. He has a bunch of good info in there.



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Read and retread without finding the answer. Ive checked the first 5 pages of fuel pump installs with no luck.
We're watching his avatar shhh.
;)
Did you cut the lid of the basket so much that the pump can be pulled up through it?

In my thread are details on the submersible fuel line you need to go buy and what to do with all the extra parts. Basically you murder that clamp to get it off then buy new fuel line clamps that are smooth rather than standard worm gear clamps that will cut into the new rubber hose.


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Yes the pump is fine, I'm merely asking how do I make the pprv attachment fit on the pump since it won't fit on the other plastic piece? I have everything in front of me, just don't know what to use.
 

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shortcuts to the applicable pages in my thread.

This is the first time I pulled the pump. tried to re-use the factory fuel line with double clamps and it FAILED. leaked bad and my FPDC was through the roof.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/projects/251188-02sonicgt-vortech-v3-treadstone-trv25-build-6.html#post4383062

This is a link to where I dropped it the second time to fix the float, replace the fuel line and use better clamps.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/projects/251188-02sonicgt-vortech-v3-treadstone-trv25-build-9.html#post4467205

and finally a post much much later in the 16 page thread describing in more detail what the pprv delete does

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/projects/251188-02sonicgt-vortech-v3-treadstone-trv25-build-15.html#post4973956

Hopefully this all helps you out. make sure and read the WHOLE thing as I did things in order leaving ALL MY ERRORS in the thread so others can learn from my mistakes. Things are not clustered together entirely...you have to read through it all.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
The difference in height


How do I make this piece


Go on this piece


Without tilting like this



I'm about 10 seconds away from giving up and paying someone to do this ****. Spent over an hour trying to get a little piece of plastic out of a spark plug hole now I can't figure this out :mad:

I literally got nothing accomplished today and I feel ****ing worthless.

---------- Post added at 07:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:31 PM ----------

shortcuts to the applicable pages in my thread.

This is the first time I pulled the pump. tried to re-use the factory fuel line with double clamps and it FAILED. leaked bad and my FPDC was through the roof.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/projects/251188-02sonicgt-vortech-v3-treadstone-trv25-build-6.html#post4383062

This is a link to where I dropped it the second time to fix the float, replace the fuel line and use better clamps.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/projects/251188-02sonicgt-vortech-v3-treadstone-trv25-build-9.html#post4467205

and finally a post much much later in the 16 page thread describing in more detail what the pprv delete does

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/projects/251188-02sonicgt-vortech-v3-treadstone-trv25-build-15.html#post4973956

Hopefully this all helps you out. make sure and read the WHOLE thing as I did things in order leaving ALL MY ERRORS in the thread so others can learn from my mistakes. Things are not clustered together entirely...you have to read through it all.
I knew most of that part from reading it previously (not being arrogant but I worshiped your thread for a few days)

Link 2 made me realize mines stuck in the tank too :facepalm:
 

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read one post up. its all there. throw that old piece out. hose goes directly from the pump to the hat. leave it fairly long so you can coil it to keep it from kinking when you press it all back together. add a bit of a twist to the line before you hook it up to both ends like you would a water hose to keep it from kinking.

Your almost there!

---------- Post added at 08:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:37 PM ----------

oh and rip that silver check valve off of the pump. it will free up flow and if you try to pull the hose off after pushing it on it will rip off and get stuck in the hose anyway. It has a sharp edge and risks cutting into the inside of the hose once you start clamping down. It does the same basic job that PPRV was there for...helps to keep fuel from draining back into the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
read one post up. its all there. throw that old piece out. hose goes directly from the pump to the hat. leave it fairly long so you can coil it to keep it from kinking when you press it all back together. add a bit of a twist to the line before you hook it up to both ends like you would a water hose to keep it from kinking.

Your almost there!

---------- Post added at 08:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:37 PM ----------

oh and rip that silver check valve off of the pump. it will free up flow and if you try to pull the hose off after pushing it on it will rip off and get stuck in the hose anyway. It has a sharp edge and risks cutting into the inside of the hose once you start clamping down. It does the same basic job that PPRV was there for...helps to keep fuel from draining back into the tank.
Not enough :facepalm:s can be used for how obvious that was. Thanks sonic ill be sure to rep you tonight. I have one more question though. For the wideband will I need to remove the midpipe or can I drill straight into it and just weld the bung in? Before the h pipe correct?
 
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