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Infamous Lincoln Mark VIII engine swap thread.

359926 Views 915 Replies 133 Participants Last post by  DamianMilesi
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So after seeing posts every week about this swap I figured I'd take the time to write up a sticky on how to swap one of these motors into any 99-04 GT.

1st thing to do is locate a motor. these motors were available in Lincoln mark viii's from 93-98. the ideal motor to find is either a 97 or 98 to swap into our new edge cars. the reasons are simple, they already have the COP ignition system, the intake manifold inlet is on the passenger side (if you opt to use the Lincoln intake) and supposedly the heads on the 97-98's are the best of the mark heads (earlier years are said to have the valves shrouded a bit, the newer ones don't but I can't confirm this either way) all you will need is the complete motor. no wiring, no PCM/ECU.



^This is the motor I used for my swap. it is a 43,000mi motor from a 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC. picked it up for $400.

The next thing to do is strip all the Lincoln stuff off the motor that you can't use. so toss the motor mounts if they are still on there, toss the exhaust manifolds and the flexplate/torque converter (unless you plan to use an auto in your mustang) also, you will have to trim off the pipes on the back of the motor for the heater core. they are too tall and will in no way work with the mustang stuff. I cut them kinda low and used hose/hose clamps to hook up the lines to the heater core. these are the 3 optional things that can either be tossed or used. the 1st and biggest is the Mark intake. you can use that in your Mustang but a better-flowing and much better-looking option is a 96-98 cobra intake manifold. this is the route in which I decided to go. these are pricey (Look to spend $400 or so) so for a budget build most will skip this step. next is the IMRCs. you can wire them up with a nitrous window switch. Some people have done this with great results. I opted to delete them because it was easier (the 98 motor has plastic IMRC plates. just pull the rods/butterflies and JB weld the holes shut and you're done. Essentially a 'free mod') later on I plan to do a short runner mod to my Cobra manifold and give it some more timing and I will have almost zero low-end power loss.



^A B head cobra intake.

The last thing is the fuel rail. the Lincoln is set up using a return line. our cars are returnless. you can either mod the return rail to work (block off the return line, add a piece of hose, a lot of butchery IMO) or what I did was picked up a Mach 1 rail and modded it to work. I don't know what would be involved with the mark intake but for the Cobra, you will have to cut the mounts off the rail and move the port on the rail for the fuel pressure sensor. you will need a TIG welder for this and some skills.



^port cut off, new hole drilled. next is to weld it up and pressure test it.

The next step is to yank out your old 2v. when you do, don't be so quick to get rid of it because you will need a few things from it before you do. keep your starter (the Lincoln one will work too, they are the same) keep your oil filter adapter block depending on the year of your mark motor (the earlier ones) your oil pick-up tube, and your 2v oil pan.

For the later motors (like mine) I needed an oil pick-up tube from a cobra because the tube diameter is bigger and the GT one won't work. All these will be swapped over to the 4v. I also found that I needed to swap over my 2v crank position sensor and cam position sensor. the plugs were slightly different from the ones on the Mark motor but no biggie, it's a direct swap.



^ Motor is out. I pulled the motor and trans together out the top. It's easy getting the motor out but wasn't so much to get the 4v in. I did the entire swap single-handedly so if you can get some extra hands and eyes, don't hesitate to take the offer!

now that the motor is out, get the 4v ready to go in. you will need to swap over your flywheel and clutch to the Mark motor. these are 6-bolt cranks so most GT stuff works. I used my stock flywheel (resurfaced at my Dad's work) and a SPEC stage 2 clutch.



^Picked this up with about 4800 miles on it for $135 shipped!

Next is to decide what you want to do for exhaust. You will need either a 4v mustang specific header or some stock manifolds from a cobra. any year cobra will work (96-04) I ended up going with a set of Ford Racing ceramic-coated stainless steel shorty headers for my swap. also, you need to make up your mind on the EGR. I kept mine and an EGR tube from a 96-98 Cobra is a direct fit. Otherwise, if you keep the mark intake, I would assume you could write something up with the stock Lincoln piece or you could just delete it and be done. either way, the choice is yours!



^ Got these new for $200. The best part is my h pipe bolts right up with no mods needed!

After swapping your 2v oil pan and oil filter adapter block onto the 4v, now you can put your transmission onto the new motor. any mustang transmission will bolt directly to this block. I used my stock flywheel and clutch (11" set-up from my 02 GT) and my Tremec TR3650 5-speed. once the transmission, starter, oil pan, and filter block all are swapped you can put your mustang motor mounts on and start to put the motor into the car. I used solid motor mounts from blue oval industries eBay store and I also put some of the wiring on before I put the motor in (the thick stuff that runs from the battery to the starter)


^4v is all ready to be dropped in.

Once the motor is back in, it's all downhill from there. hook everything back up that you can ( i only had 3 things that I had to make a change to in order for it to work) you will need to extend all of the COP wires and reverse the polarity on them. some people will say you can use the 4v boots and springs inside the COPS on your 2v stuff but I tried this, wasted a lot of money on it and it never worked right anyway.

Just do yourself a favor and wire them up the right way the 1st time using the 4v COPs and pulling the wires out of the end of the plugs and flipping them that way. the only other thing is the IAC wiring. that just needs to be extended like 12" and that's it. Real simple.

Lastly is the alternator. For this, you will have to go to your Ford dealer and get a repair harness for the Lincoln alternator. Once you have that, splice that into your stock harness. I screwed mine up the 1st time and had a battery light on in the dash and had to flip the wires around. That's it for the wiring, those were the only 3 things I came across so that isn't that bad at all. The worst part is the COPs - 16 wires of fun there.



I just got done dropping the 4v in. as I said, get all the extra eyes and hands you can! getting it to sit down on the motor mounts is a PITA. you WILL have to remove the trans cross member or you won't ever get the motor in.

Now go ahead and hook up all your coolant/radiator lines. I found I could re-use the upper radiator hose I just had to cut a bit off of it. awesome free mod there haha. Don't forget the heater core lines in the back either. now when you get to the lower radiator hose I ran into some problems. 1st is the 4v elbow was too short and the second is the sizes on the t-stat housing and lower radiator outlet are different. you will need a piece of your lower radiator hose that was used on the 2v and you will need a 96-98 cobra lower radiator hose.

I used a piece of electrical conduit and some high temp RTV to splice the two together and make one hose. that has been working for me since day 1 and I have no worries about it. your cooling system is only under 17psi and look at that coolant cross-over tube ford uses. no reason to worry IMO. hook up your clutch cable and your throttle cable. and as a side note, if you go with the 96-98 cobra intake, you will need a 96-98 cobra throttle cable too. these however are obsolete from Ford so you will have to get a used one if you are lucky enough to come across one. I got mine for $55/shipped but have seen them go for as much as $100 so be prepared to spend a lot on something seemingly stupid.

If you use the Lincoln intake, I'm not sure what cable to use. My 1st guess would be the stock Lincoln one but I can't say for sure. Either way, the stock GT cable won't really work. I would like to maybe see if a newer style cobra throttle cable would work but haven't had the time/money to do so lately. To have this thing run properly you will need a tune if you used the 24lb injectors. I have heard of guys using their stock 19lb injectors/MAF with zero issues at all so if a tune is out of budget then this may be your best option. I ended up going with the 24lb injectors, an 03 Cobra MAF, and a good E-Mail tune from Rick Erdman at Amazon Tuning Solutions.



So there it is. Hopefully, a Mod will Sticky this thing so we don't get this question coming up every week lol. anything further doesn't hesitate to PM me as I'm sure I probably forgot about some little things here and there.
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I was in the process of buying a forged 4.6 2v short block before i found a guy willing to sell me a motor out of a 93 mark 8 my question is will any 4.6 forged kit work on this motor?

---------- Post added at 06:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:27 PM ----------

I guess another way to ask the question is what forged internals would I use if going the rout?
anything for a 4.6 should work, just be mindful of the heads youre using and the pistons.
need help!!

what if you have a 2004 mach 1 and need the cheapest way to replace the block.. does the flywheel from the mach 1 work on lincoln block? or would i have to replace the crank as well on lincoln?
thank you.
what if you have a 2004 mach 1 and need the cheapest way to replace the block.. does the flywheel from the mach 1 work on lincoln block? or would i have to replace the crank as well on lincoln?
thank you.
you would need to research what pistons are in the mach 1 and make sure to get the short block that has the same compression, so you dont need a tune afterwards.
what if you have a 2004 mach 1 and need the cheapest way to replace the block.. does the flywheel from the mach 1 work on lincoln block? or would i have to replace the crank as well on lincoln?
thank you.
you would need to research what pistons are in the mach 1 and make sure to get the short block that has the same compression, so you dont need a tune afterwards.
OK I'll do that, thank you
I have written in my notes that the mach one has 2.7cc pistons. IIRC, I collected said info from M1R at some point in the past.
I just picked up a very clean 1997 Mustang GT with no drivetrain for $600. I have a complete 1993 Lincoln Mark VIII lined up for $400. My understanding is the owner of the Mark VIII doesn't have keys and can't get past the PATS so he can't get it to run so he doesn't want to mess with it. My issue is that the original motor, trans (5-speed), wiring harness and ECM were pulled from the Mustang. So my question is would it be easier to use the wiring harness and ECM from the Mark VIII or try to round up an ECM and wiring harness out of a 1997 Mustang GT with auto trans?

This is my first time doing a modern swap and I want to have my ducks in a row as well as the simplest, easiest and cheapest way.

Thanks.
Get an ECU and wiring harness for a 96-98 v8 mustang. Use an SCT programmer to tune the car and disable PATS.
Get an ECU and wiring harness for a 96-98 v8 mustang. Use an SCT programmer to tune the car and disable PATS.
So is the PATS system part of the ECU? Because I have the original PATS keys with the 1997 mustang GT.
Will I still need to disable the PATS to do the 93 Mark VIII swap if I use the 96-98 mustang wiring harness & ECU?
So is the PATS system part of the ECU? Because I have the original PATS keys with the 1997 mustang GT.
Will I still need to disable the PATS to do the 93 Mark VIII swap if I use the 96-98 mustang wiring harness & ECU?
The PATS system is controlled by the ECU. Since you dont have the factory ECU, the key wont work because whatever replacement ECU you get wont be programmed to recognize the RFID code it picks up in the key you have. It will be looking for the RFID code from whatever key was used to start the vehicle it came out of. You'd need a dealer to program your ECU for your key. It's easier to just turn PATS off IMO.
Since I have to get a Mustang ECM anyways would I be better off looking for a Cobra one that is already set up to run the DOHC motor?
So I acquired a 97 GT with no motor or trans and I picked up a complete 93 mark VIII to do a swap.
The mustang has the ECM and original keys but no under hood engine harnesses.

So two questions:

What harnesses and what years are compatible to go from ECM to the motor and injectors?

Since I have the original ECM & keys for the mustang will I still need disable the PATS?

Sorry for all the questions but it's my first modern swap.
So I acquired a 97 GT with no motor or trans and I picked up a complete 93 mark VIII to do a swap.
The mustang has the ECM and original keys but no under hood engine harnesses.

So two questions:

What harnesses and what years are compatible to go from ECM to the motor and injectors?

Since I have the original ECM & keys for the mustang will I still need disable the PATS?

Sorry for all the questions but it's my first modern swap.
Use a 97 harness, and pats should be fine with keys/ecu/pats module in trunk. You can run with the 24# just fine till you get tuned. Good Luck with your swap!
Use a 97 harness, and pats should be fine with keys/ecu/pats module in trunk. You can run with the 24# just fine till you get tuned. Good Luck with your swap!
Will any other year Cobra wiring harness work besides the 97?

I'd really like to use a cobra DOHC harness if I can find one (which I'm realizing they're hard to come by) because it's my understanding that with the Cobra harness on the Mark VIII DOHC it's a pretty much plug and play harness without the need to cut and lengthen a bunch of wires?

The problem is I can't seem to locate any 96-98 Cobra engine & injector harnesses ?
find an engine harness for your car, a 97 GT. put it in. Find an ECU for your car, a 97 GT. put it in. You can either have a tuner disable pats so you dont have to sync all the PATS stuff up, or just have Ford program the ECU to work with your current PATS stuff.

reference my guide if you need to on putting the mark motor into the car at that point.
SN95Source.com
a moment of time would be much appreacited

we have a 01 mustang that has grown around a 03 4 valve high performance cobra engine 03 block 98 heads and intake and want to know where to get a harness that connects the cobra coil packs to the Bullitt harness or whatever we need to do to get this car wired and send it to be flashed and retuned and make a pass so please sir if you can share some knowledge on this subject it would be much appreciated our contact info is 409 812 8880 we can send you some pictures to better explain our project thanks and have a Blessed and Happy New Years.
my name is Melvin Chavis by the way sir.
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I didn't realize there was an actual page for the MK8 swap!? Here's a little preview of whats going on with my 99GT.

Picked the car up for 75 dollars from a buddy of mine that had started parting it out.



Then did a Team Z tubular K, Tubular A's, Coil overs, etc up front. In the rear I put a yukon duragrip differential and 31 spline yukon axles, frpp 4.56 gears, frpp dif cover, etc.

All sitting on a set of SVE 15x10 rears and 17x4.5 front with mickey thompson et street pro radials on the rear



Picked up a set of COP valve covers as well as a complete 96-98 cobra intake (actually picked up a second engine just for the intake lol) And decided to VHT wrinkle coat the top end.



While everything was apart I decided to use scottrod inner panels to shave the engine bay and do a complete wire tuck.



Goal right now is to put the engine, trans, front K back under the car this weekend.

Here's a complete build thread on the car so far.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/projects/613018-99gt-boosted-4v-build-pic-heavy.html
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I've got a question regarding the 4v swap. I'm hopefully picking up a wrecked 99 cobra later this week to swap the engine into my car. Now my question is if I swap the harness and ecm and disable pats I won't need a new tune correct? Just to get me by a few months
I've got a question regarding the 4v swap. I'm hopefully picking up a wrecked 99 cobra later this week to swap the engine into my car. Now my question is if I swap the harness and ecm and disable pats I won't need a new tune correct? Just to get me by a few months
How are you going to disable PATS without a tune?

If you swap over the entire harness and ECM, you can also swap over the gauge cluster and lock cylinder (to read the key from the donor) then you'll be ok without a tune.

AFAIK, you cannot disable PATS without a tune otherwise.
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