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That's a good point. I was thinking it'd be cleaner with the cobra harness but I don't want to swap ignition then I'll have to have 2 keys
 

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I Blumpkin Entirely Way Too Much
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You'll be leaps and bounds better off by running your factory harness/ecu/ everything.

I'm in the middle of doing a complete wire tuck on mine. I'm using a factory 2v engine harness on my 4v engine.
 

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Ok I'll just use the 2v harness. Switch coil wires and extend a few sensors correct? Or do all the cool wires need extended
 

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I Blumpkin Entirely Way Too Much
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Exactly switch coils and then extend a couple. Have to switch over the Alt. Plug if im not mistaken as well. I've got a complete cobra harness that i'm going to cut a few different connectors off of.
 

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That's a good point. I was thinking it'd be cleaner with the cobra harness but I don't want to swap ignition then I'll have to have 2 keys
You would only need a second key IF the remote lock/unlock decided not to work, since with the keys from the 99 (and proper remote lock/unlock) you would be able to use that to unlock doors/open trunk AFAIK. And swapping the locks wouldn't be super hard otherwise/having two keys vs. having to get it tuned right away.
 

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when going with an earlier year, like a 95, how would you go about swapping to a COP setup? I can't find any 97 or 98 locally, and paying for shipping will put my budget way over for the project, so I'm trying to see how difficult the swap would be. as far as clutch and flywheel go, is the Lincoln motor a 6 bolt crank? and for motor mounts, would I need cobra motor mounts or would new 2v motor mounts work
 

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Hey guys. I just got done reading this ENTIRE thread. Lots of great info on here that I have learned about the swap. My plan is to get a Mark VIII motor and the year doesn’t matter because I plan on doing a C head swap on it, and a total build from the ground up (forged terminator internals minus pistons). The other reason why I’m going the C head route (besides the fact that I can use the Mach 1 manifold) is to avoid the butchery of the fuel rail. That is one thing I don’t mess around with on cars as fires can happen at any time.

I’m collecting small pieces here’s and there, and I choose year model pieces carefully due to reading about other people’s mistakes and hurdles in this thread with heater hose clearance and PCV locations. I’ve noticed in this thread that a lot of people have problems with the PATS system but I do not understand how that happens when the gauge cluster and PCM is not touched? Another issue I found interesting was someone’s car was trying to start by itself when they would attach the terminals to the battery, although I have seen trigger wires fray and contact metal and cause this issue.

So far I have collected:

- Brand new 99/01 Cobra throttle cable
- 03/04 Cobra Valve covers
- 03/04 Cobra stock exhaust manifold
- 03/04 Mach 1 fuel rail


Just need to get either a stock 99/01 Cobra Air Intake or possibly aftermarket and some bulk wires to extend (correct me if I’m wrong here) the COPS and IAC (about 12”?) What gauge wire did you guys use for these wires?


Again this is a great thread and I’m really appreciative of everyone that has posted in here sharing their stories.
 

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Now if there was just a super detailed thread like this on going from a 3.8 to the 4.6 in a 98.
Theres a few...

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/v6-mustangs/256124-infamous-v6-v8-swap.html

Converting a V-6 Mustang to V-8 Power - 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords Magazine

3.8l v6 - 4.6l v8 (swap) - Ford Mustang Forum

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/v6-tech/287072-v6-v8-swap-faq-newbies-read-here-first.html


That said, the V6 to V8 swap isn't really cost effective, you can buy a 94-98 GT for probably close to the cost of doing the swap. Or for a little more $$ get a 99/00 or 01-04 with the better PI engine, and IMO nicer body style...
 
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