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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so here is the list of parts I installed on my 2013 mustang gt prem, 3.73 gears, brembo package...just over 250 miles.

- DSS one piece alum. DS
- J&M extreme extreme LCA's (spherical bushing)
- BMR LCA relocation bracket
- BMR adjustable PHB (poly bushings)
- Eibach front and rear sways
- Tokico D-spec shocks and struts
- Steed sport extreme lowering springs
- Steeda SS brake lines
- MGW shifter
- Steeda heavy duty front strut mounts

Ok, so some things that I think could maybe causing it...

1. The DS in general could be bad
--I did the measuring as it stated and it was just with in spec
--I used a TQ wrench to TQ to specified to the 57 ft lbs, but its not the best tq wrench so they may be under of over tightened...not sure how much worry that should cause me?
-- I also did not install the upper adjustable UCA, because I was told it was not needed due to the drive shaft having a CV joint at the rear, so it compensates no problem
-- I can tell you, even though the DS was in spec for the cv side measurement...I did have to close about an inch at the tranny side...I figured that was probably normal, because it allows for the instal.

2. I swapped out the SS lines...and to my dismay of not paying attention while the swapping was going on, I took the master cylinder dry...I filled and bled the brakes via the 2 person method, person pumping brakes while I opened each valve and cleared the bubbles (I filled the MC, and then started at passenger rear, then driver rear, then passenger front, driver right. the first time I did until there were no bubbles at all, and repeated the process for good measure, still no bubbles. On the brembos, I did the inside valve first and then the outer). I mention this, becase I believe I have read that the brake system shares itself with the transmission, so I am not sure if I messed something up terribly?
-- I also used ATE super blue DOT 4 (which I know is not stock, but from everything I read its perfectly fine.

here is the situation...

once done, I took it for a 5 min drive, up to 50 mph (city/rural roads) and no issues that I could feel or hear...there was some noticeable feel in the pedals, the shifter and the ride...maybe slight vibration...but I chalked it all up to the newer stiffer suspension parts...did not seem excessive or anything. Went back to my buddies house (where I did all the installing) to clean up and on my drive home about 15 mins I noticed that on deceleration that it started to make a very audible noise...

The noise seems to sound like metal rubbing while spinning at the same time...not high pitch and does not sound like grinding at all...but I guess it could be. It does not do it parked in idel or when on the throttle...I think I may have started to feel some more vibration at this point...

My first thought is the DS, but why would it not do it on all driving, just on deceleration and with the clutch in...so I am lost right now and any experience or info, would be awesome!!!!!!!

* Also, I am not a little freaked that the DS is going to snap and come through the floor bad and take my legs off...or that its going to mess up with the tranny or the rear end...


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I would guess your getting lots of nvh from the lca.s.Those spherical bushings should be for track only use in my opinion because they transmit everything right through the whole car.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
sorry shperical poly bushings...my fault for being super unclear

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Biz Jet Fixer
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+1 with what ponywars said.
 

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Yup what those guys said. You willl hear more whining and feel every bump in the road. Mine whines on deceleration as well after I added the LCA's and UCA. If you are still worried jack the car up and double check your work.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so i had the ds safety loop installed and the adjustable upper control arm and it aligned (by a place that is "race spec certified" have no clue what the **** that means or if it has any real merit, but sound good to me, lol)...took them a few hours...but i dont hear it anymore...but i didnt hear it, on the way to get it aligned, so i dont know.

i do hear a clunk sometimes with engagement of the clutch...but i know thats common with the 2 piece ds...im thinking the 2 piece may not always be the cause.

i had the place also check to make sure nothing was rubbing or looked out of place or "off"...they didnt notice or see anything.

i also had them re torque my ds bolts, to be safe.

i guess i can chalk it up to, just increased nvh...

thx for all the help guys.

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Discussion Starter #7
Yup what those guys said. You willl hear more whining and feel every bump in the road. Mine whines on deceleration as well after I added the LCA's and UCA. If you are still worried jack the car up and double check your work.
good to know!!!

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Want Camels?
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Mind if I asked, what pinion angle you set the UCA with 1 piece DS? I am planning on getting the GT500 CF DS

I double what they said, spherical endings will transfer road noise more than poly-poly
 

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I can haz tune?
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so i had the ds safety loop installed and the adjustable upper control arm and it aligned (by a place that is "race spec certified" have no clue what the **** that means or if it has any real merit, but sound good to me, lol)...took them a few hours...but i dont hear it anymore...but i didnt hear it, on the way to get it aligned, so i dont know.

i do hear a clunk sometimes with engagement of the clutch...but i know thats common with the 2 piece ds...im thinking the 2 piece may not always be the cause.

i had the place also check to make sure nothing was rubbing or looked out of place or "off"...they didnt notice or see anything.

i also had them re torque my ds bolts, to be safe.

i guess i can chalk it up to, just increased nvh...

thx for all the help guys.

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Peace of mind is always nice. I would have done the same in your shoes.
 

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I can haz tune?
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so i had the ds safety loop installed and the adjustable upper control arm and it aligned (by a place that is "race spec certified" have no clue what the **** that means or if it has any real merit, but sound good to me, lol)...took them a few hours...but i dont hear it anymore...but i didnt hear it, on the way to get it aligned, so i dont know.

i do hear a clunk sometimes with engagement of the clutch...but i know thats common with the 2 piece ds...im thinking the 2 piece may not always be the cause.

i had the place also check to make sure nothing was rubbing or looked out of place or "off"...they didnt notice or see anything.

i also had them re torque my ds bolts, to be safe.

i guess i can chalk it up to, just increased nvh...

thx for all the help guys.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
Peace of mind is always nice. I would have done the same in your shoes.
 

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I would suggest that anyone contemplating this type of suspension work install one item or group of items at a time, then perform a road test, this will allow stuff to settle, then re-torque your bolts and do an inspection of your work.

Examples unclude installing a drive shaft. Then check the pinion angle, test drive, recheck the angle, add your front safety loop, test drive, re-torque and re-inspect your work. If you add one thing at a time, you end up not having to guess which change resulted in the noise or handling problem.

I also recommend obtaining replacement fasteners, either from Ford, or equivalent grade, especially when suspension, drivetrain modifications are involved. If this is not convenient, NDT inspection (Non-destructive Testing) is a good idea, if you can get access to a professional. I usually get my used and even new fasteners penetrant or magnetic particle inspected where I work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I would suggest that anyone contemplating this type of suspension work install one item or group of items at a time, then perform a road test, this will allow stuff to settle, then re-torque your bolts and do an inspection of your work.

Examples unclude installing a drive shaft. Then check the pinion angle, test drive, recheck the angle, add your front safety loop, test drive, re-torque and re-inspect your work. If you add one thing at a time, you end up not having to guess which change resulted in the noise or handling problem.

I also recommend obtaining replacement fasteners, either from Ford, or equivalent grade, especially when suspension, drivetrain modifications are involved. If this is not convenient, NDT inspection (Non-destructive Testing) is a good idea, if you can get access to a professional. I usually get my used and even new fasteners penetrant or magnetic particle inspected where I work.
i dont have the sort of time or the garage on a super regular basis in my schedule to throw a part on, test it out and then move to the next...it's just not a reality for me and id rather spend a full couple of days on the ground doing all of it...then pro longing it over weeks. i understand your point, but while it seems great on paper, but in reality it just doesn't work.

as for fasteners, ive reused ALL on my previous cars that ran for years with no issue...what so ever...i will pay a shop 30 min time to throw my car on a lift and check all tq specs in a month or so, just be safe...but beyond that i wont replace anything and id spend countless days trying to figure out whay i need to replace and i bet the pieces add up to close to what my suspension parts cost altogether. no access to a professional a ndt pro.

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My vote is MGW shifter. I had it on my Shelby for about a month. Took it out and sold it. Could not stand all the added noise coming into the car. Sounded like I was driving a sewing machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
My vote is MGW shifter. I had it on my Shelby for about a month. Took it out and sold it. Could not stand all the added noise coming into the car. Sounded like I was driving a sewing machine.
No...I would say ds before anything...from the reading uve done...the mustang is just a shitty car in terms of noise...due to lack of sound deadening material and the sla that just is a microphone for transmitting noise

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Boss 302
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My vote is MGW shifter. I had it on my Shelby for about a month. Took it out and sold it. Could not stand all the added noise coming into the car. Sounded like I was driving a sewing machine.
lol not sure on the shelbys but on the GT the center piece where the shifter is if you pull it up, has a lot of open space. To quiet it back down all you have to do is pack that full of insulation. Plenty of room to add a lot more.
 

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It came with dynomat and added foam pad, which was twice as much deadening as the stock shifter and still transmitted lots of noise. The stock unit has soft rubber on the trans mount and in the shifter itself and keeps the noise to a minimum. The hard poly bushings and removal of softer rubber in the MGW turned it into a megaphone. I didn't notice much difference in the shifting action either, but I drove it like a granny too.
 

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my MGW shifter is only slightly louder than stock. If you got in my car you wouldn't even notice it. I have poly lower control arms and added an adjustable spherical bushing upper. I noticed noise on decel, but low the fact that my rear is in line with the rest of the drivetrain. I have a dss on order, and will install that as soon as it comes in.
 

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I just had to replace my whiteline uca due a design flaw, so went with steeda. The whiteline bushing is bigger and is synthetic elastomer so it was quieter then my steeda. I feel more vibration now then before and I'm certain it was already there from changing lca's and adding relocation brackets, a watts link, heavy duty eurathane motor mounts stiffer sway bars and an aluminum d/s. I only get noise at 2200-2700 rpm in 5th gear then it disipates. What I have concluded is that ford did everything to keep these cars quiet and the vibrations way down with a stock car. As soon as we change something it throws all that outta wack! I don't mind the noise and the vibrations, hell i have a tial 50 mm blow off valve on my Paxton, that thing is loud..its the price you pay for completly altering the car...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I just had to replace my whiteline uca due a design flaw, so went with steeda. The whiteline bushing is bigger and is synthetic elastomer so it was quieter then my steeda. I feel more vibration now then before and I'm certain it was already there from changing lca's and adding relocation brackets, a watts link, heavy duty eurathane motor mounts stiffer sway bars and an aluminum d/s. I only get noise at 2200-2700 rpm in 5th gear then it disipates. What I have concluded is that ford did everything to keep these cars quiet and the vibrations way down with a stock car. As soon as we change something it throws all that outta wack! I don't mind the noise and the vibrations, hell i have a tial 50 mm blow off valve on my Paxton, that thing is loud..its the price you pay for completly altering the car...
That is what I have heard...and looking at the stock parts, there is a **** load of rubber to cut down on the noise. Im fine with the noise, as long as it's normal ;-)

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