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Zippy's Resident Milf
5,596 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The JLT system is a larger diameter then the stock system, allowing for a greater volume of air flow. It's without any nooks, cranies, or hard angles. Its smooth internal walls allow the air to flow much easier through the system without all the turbulence. The paper stock filter is replaced with a higher flowing K&N. The routing is altered slightly, with the filter element relocated out of the engine bay and open within the fender well. The filter sits lower in the fender then the stock snorkel, allowing it to access a cooler air source then the stock system.

Its performance aspect is well worth the upgrade, but it's made even sweeter by the option to paint the ducting to match the body of the car. I was impressed with the quality, fit, and finish of the system.




The stock intake off the plenum...

The filter canister within the engine bay...

The canister that holds the air filter...

It's snorkle open to air in the fender...

Its not a horrible system, but we can do so much better!


Before we can remove the ducting, we need to get the filter canister free of the body of the car.


That means removing this bolt at the top of the air filter canister where it bolts to engine bay wall. It will give you a bit more wiggle room to remove the filter. An 8mm socket and wrench and the bolt comes right out.

Now you lift the flap on the clamp of the air filter holder. It's located on the very top edge of the canister. I'm pointing at the clamp. You lift on the far right side of the flat lever...

You open the clamp fully and pull the clamp up and out of the way. Then pull the canister down to reveal the filter...the orange is the stock style paper filter...

Then, bend the air tube neck out of the way watching the wires for your mass air sensor at the neck. Then you can pull the old filter out...

If you were doing a simple filter replacement, you would now pull out the old, put in the new, re-secure the clamp, and 8mm bolt and you would be good to go.

But.... we are replacing the whole system...

Ok, back on track... With the ducting detached, now it's time to pull the canister out of the fender.

The filter canister has these rubber feet that attach to the the bottom of the engine bay, so it might be work to get the canister out. Here, I have pulled mine can see them in the right hand picture. They are made like rubber grommets, locking the canister in place and providing a rubber cushion to reduce vibrations and stress that come from driving and slight engine movement under load and harsh turning.

Left: Here are the holes those grommets fit into. Right: Here is the hole in the fender that the snorkel slips into to provide some fresh air to the intake tract.

The canister and snorkel assembly removed from the car...

Now back to the intake tubing...

Zippy's Resident Milf
5,596 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·

To remove it, you first need to disconnect the MAFS electrical connector. You simply press in the tab on the top of the weather pack and pull the connector away from the MAFS and it unplugs.

Next you can disconnect the two air tubes connected to the intake ducting, close to the plenum.

This one goes to the IAT sensor on the front of the plenum...

The other goes across the motor to the valve cover on the driver's side of the motor... This is part of the engine's crankcase pressure system...

Now we can disconnect the ducting at the throttle body itself. As this whole duct is made of rubber, there is no separate coupler. Just one hose clamp holds the unit to your throttle body on the front of the plenum. Simply unscrew the clamp with a slotted screw driver, or use the 8mm socket with an extension. A socket is always easier if it is in a reachable position. This duct is designed with positioning tabs on the ducting that will only allow the clamp to fit one way. This places the clamp screw right down on the front side right next to the TPS.

Now, you just firmly grasp the ducting & wiggle it back and forth until it slips off the throttle body. You can now take the ducting out of the engine bay.

The car looks bare without it...


Your new JLT cold air intake uses the stock MAFS. With the stock intake tract out of the car, we will remove the MAFS from its ducting. First thing you want to do is loosen the hose clamp that attaches the MAFS to the intake ducking.

Once this is loosened, you can gently twist and wiggle the MAFS until it slips out of the ducting.

Now the lid of the air canister will be removed from the bottom of the MAFS. Just four screws attach the two together.

With the lid off, we focused on removing the MAFS screen for better air flow.

With the screen gone, you can now bolt on the new JLT billet coupler for the MAFS. JLT provides the hardware to attach the two together.

Your MAFS has an in and out mount for the ducting. The new filter will eventually mount directly to this new billet adapter. Set this unit to the side for later.

Now we want to ready the wiring for the MAFS. There is enough length built into the factory harness that you just have to redirect into the hole leading to the fender.


Zippy's Resident Milf
5,596 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·

Using the supplied rubber coupler and hose clamps, the 2 painted JLT pieces slip together like so. The top has the 2 plastic inlets for the 2 stock air lines we disconnected earlier. The bottom faces the other way so it can go into the fender like the stock unit.

Now we turn our attention to assembling the lower half of the JLT ducting. As you saw in the pictures above, the lower half of the painted section has a curve built into the bottom of it. The curve at the bottom is where the duct actually goes through the hole leading to the fender. On the end of this curve, there is a rubber elbow that must be installed. The elbow has to be oriented so that its open end will sit facing straight down in the fender. Now ideally, you would want to install the ducting in the car and then add the elbow once its installed. This way you are sure you have all the angles right. Due to the insanely tight fit of the elbow, I had to assemble these two before I installed them on the car. I actually had to wet the elbow to get it slide on and it was still a fight. In order to predict the orientation of the elbow on the duct, I held the lower portion of the ducting in the engine bay to mock up the angles. Then I oriented the elbow based off these calculations. I knew I could tweak it slightly once I got it in the car.

Once you get the rubber elbow installed, you use the supplied hose clamp to keep it in place. I did not get pictures of this the first time around, so I had to go back and take them later... hence the worn condition of the pieces)

Now, it's time to bring the MAFS over for it's install. I did not want to risk damaging the MAFS by installing it within the fender, so I installed it before we installed the ducting in the car. Slip the supplied hose clamp on the rubber elbow and then slip your MAFS into the elbow. There is an arrow on the MAFS electrical housing that shows you the direction of airflow, so you don't install it backwards.

I oriented the electrical plug-in towards the engine bay and tightened down the hose clamp.

As I said, I mocked up the last half of this install due to lack of pictures. The reason we had the whole thing apart again was to clean the K&N and to correct some chattering from the CAI in the fender and engine bay. Seems that over time, the movement of the motor moves the ducting, causing it to move about in the fender opening.

It got so bad that the duct was rubbing on the metal of the body and inner fender. (This was due to the painter not adjusting the ducting quite right after the passenger side fender was replaced in a wreck repair).

Over time, the body metal would have rubbed a hole in the ducting. To correct for this, I split some old used vacuum lines I had and covered the contact points on the metal.


Zippy's Resident Milf
5,596 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·

First thing first.... the best way to get everything correctly oriented in the fender is to take out the wheel well to gain access to the front of the fender. So time to remove the wheel.

First break your lug nuts loose...

Then jack up the car....

Now finish loosening the lugs and remove your wheel...

Now you have to remove the 2 screws and 5 retaining clips that hold the wheel well in. Ours might be missing some fasteners, so check around really well.

Screw number one in the front side of the well.

Screw number two in the back of the well...

Now on to the push pins... here is the tool to remove then with... a panel puller.

There is a pin just in front of the suspension...

And to the rear of the suspension...

There is one on the frame rail under the car in the front of the wheel well...

Now one on the rear side of the wheel well frame rail where the k-member ties in...

The last one on our car was where the side ground effects tie in on the underbody.

Now all our fasteners were loose and it was time to remove the wheel well. PLEASE go slow in case you have more fasteners than us!!!! I started at the bottom and worked my way up. Just watch for edges to catch on the suspension.

The last piece to hang up was the area that was under the ground effect edge... you just slide it forward...

Now you should be free... just set the wheel well to the side...


Zippy's Resident Milf
5,596 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·

With the wheel well out of the way... I finished covering sharp areas the CAI might come in contact with. The edge of the fender was a contact point when the painter left thing misaligned, so I covered it in a slit vacuum line as well.

Now we can move back to installing the system... the kit comes with a plate that helps stabilize the system and shield some of the hot air from getting in the fender.

We slipped it on the lower intake duct before we started to install the duct in the car. I was not sure how much room we would have to slip it on once the lower duct was through the fender hole. Not to mention that I did not want to have to leave it to rest on the edge of the hole while I slipped it on after the fact. Just be sure you slip it on the top end with the paint edge facing towards you.

As you work the ducting through the hole to the fender, you will have to twist and turn it to slip the MAFS through the hole without banging it. Just go slow and easy. It would help to have a helper watch the top end as you guide the bottom through the hole.

Your first catch will be the MAFS billet adapter...

The MAFS electrical plug in is your next catch...

Next comes the MAFS tab at the bottom.

From in fender...

A quick overview shot to show you the crazy angle the duct gets while you are installing. This is why I suggest a helper holding the upper part of the tube.

Ok now we need to watch inside the fender... there is a box mounted right inside the hole. We don't want the MAFS electrical plug to catch it...

Ok back to the top.... we about have it there. You need to slip the hole cover forward to meet the wall.

Check in the fender to be sure the elbow for the MAFS is pointing straight down... (I took the pic crooked)...

Plug in your MAFS...

For added measure, I added some vacuum line to the back edge of the MAFS where another edge of the fender was.

With everything looking good... install your hole bezel now. There is a hole in the piece that lines up with the factory bolt hole the old intake system bolted to. You can use your factory bolt or get a pretty stainless one like we did.

When our bezel was new, it sat nice and flat and flush, but with engine movement and strain to the piece, the bottom front corner started to lift and allowed the intake to move about. So I came up with a fix for ours... We will see if it stands the test of time. I looked near the lifted edge and saw a factory hole. It was close enough, so I used it. I got a screw and large dished washer to use as my edge retainer.

My helper held the screw, washer and bezel from the engine bay side, while I ran on a nut with a lock washer and an additional nut.

A shot from the bay....

With the MAFS oriented correctly in the fender, your ducting with now be sitting like this...


Zippy's Resident Milf
5,596 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Now its time to add the top half...

The upper inlet of the JLT had to have an included piece of vacuum line added.

The stock duct had a rubber inlet molded into the side of it that the hard vacuum line slipped into. To make life easier, I removed the hard line that ran across the engine bay to the passenger side valve cover, so I could go ahead and install it on the upper intake duct. It made it easier for me to install that way.

A close up of the new upper inlet connection. The lower inlet connects to the stock rubber line that runs to the IAT....

The larger supplied coupler will be used to hold the upper and lower painted ducts together.

With a supplied hose clamp for each side, we slip the coupler on the lower duct and them slip the upper duct into it.

You will leave the hose clamps loose while you finish the install. This will allow you the freedom to make final tweaks to the orientation of the ducting. We have now added an after market plenum & throttle body, so we had to swap out the supplied step down coupler for a equal diameter coupler. On a stock plenum, you will install the small end on the throttle body. The install steps are still exactly the same as ours.

I find it easier to face the upper opening on the duct straight up while I install the coupler on the TB.

Then I rotate the opening towards the coupler and slip it in.

Now you need to slip your two vacuum lines in place... The upper.....

And the lower...

All that is left is tightening the hose clamps. Start with the upper duct. Tighten the hose clamp on the TB first.

Then, you can lightly tighten the duct side. Leave it with just a tiny bit of available movement for final tweaking. Get your coupler joining the upper and lower duct also tight with a slight bit of wiggle room. Have a helper step back and take a look at the duct. Make sure everything is straight and lines up.

Ours likes to sag and the joint between the upper and lower duct. Also be sure you are not hitting the oil filler neck or the strut tower. When its just right... tighten the two clamps down tight.

Now you can tighten down the top duct coupler as well.

The fit between the strut tower and oil fill neck is close.

For you guys running the stock plenum... here are two pictures before the engine bay repaint, new caster camber plates, and the BBK TB/Plenum...


Zippy's Resident Milf
5,596 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Now the last thing to do is install the K&N filter.... I waited to do this last so I could be sure everything still lined up in the fender. Slip the supplied hose clamp on the filter first...

Now slip it on the bottom of the billet adapter.... then tighten your clamp...

Ok the install is done! Now put your wheel well back in.


Get your wheel well liner and get it in position by the car.

The first thing you need to do is to slip in the piece that came out from under the ground effect.

Once it is seated you need to push in it's clip...

Now the liner can be pushed up into the well...

Now you want to add the additional push pins... one behind the suspension..

The one in front...

Now the two under the body...

one in the front....

The one in back by the k-member mount....

Now the screws at the bottom of the front and back of the fender base



Now install your wheel.


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