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So i ran into some money this week and im looking into buying some lowering springs and i was just wondering what the install was like because ive heard mixed reviews and was just wanted to know if this is a driveway job or mor of a shop job any input would be awesome
 

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Deffinatly a diy job. Since your a noob, count on it taking about 2 hours. Remember it takes more than just springs to lower your s197! Your rear end will shift sideways and your pinion angle will also change pretty badly. U need to make sure u get lca relocation brackets and an adjustable panhard bar at bare minimum. Shocks would be nice, but not neccisary. I drove on my stock shocks for over 20k.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks man i appreciate the info!
 

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Deffinatly a diy job. Since your a noob, count on it taking about 2 hours. Remember it takes more than just springs to lower your s197! Your rear end will shift sideways and your pinion angle will also change pretty badly. U need to make sure u get lca relocation brackets and an adjustable panhard bar at bare minimum. Shocks would be nice, but not neccisary. I drove on my stock shocks for over 20k.

The severity of the shifting and pinion angles all depends on what springs you get. The if you lower more than 1 1/4 or so you will defiantly be experiencing more of a shift. You can lower with just springs to start and add the additional parts later depending on your budget.
 

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Hello, we offer a 1.25" front and a 1.5" rear lowering spring with a lifetime guarantee. The springs work very well with the tokico d specs. Like Juco stated you can use the stock shocks but upgrade as soon as possible. You will definitely need an adjustable panhard rod. Its very likely that you will also need an adjustable upper control arm to correct your pinion angle. This will also effect your lower control arm angle which effects the way your car perorms. I will post some picks with our springs installed and a link to our site. If you have any questions or need to place an order please give me a call.

BMR Fabrication Inc.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok i just got some quotes from steeda and blow by racing for springs install with alignment for 360$ and 320$ labor only does these seem right it sounds high to me but maybe thats because the springs don't even cost that
 

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Ok i just got some quotes from steeda and blow by racing for springs install with alignment for 360$ and 320$ labor only does these seem right it sounds high to me but maybe thats because the springs don't even cost that
Well lets break it down:

For the rear springs. Jack the car up by the frame. Support the suspension. Remove the wheels. Unbolt the lower shock mounting bolt. Lower the suspension. Springs come out. Put new ones in. Lift suspension. bolt up shocks. Put rear tires back on. With proper equipment and tools. Done in 30-40 minutes.

For the front. Remove wheels. Unbolt the strut to upper mount bolt. Remove e-brake cable. Lower suspension. Remove the lower mounting bolts (2 on each side), Remove strut/spring from car. Swap springs. Rebolt lower bolts. Lift suspension and attach the upper mounting bolt. Replace e-brak cable. Put front tires back on. Done in about an hour.

So an hour and a half to two hours in labor plus the cost of alignment. If the shop is charging $85 to $100 an hour and $150 for a 4 wheel laser alignment, It's about in the ball park, a little on the high end, but not totally unexplainable.

Put them in yourself and then go get it aligned. Really it's not that difficult unless you make it that way.
 

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Yeah the instructions of which you just posted make it sound easier than the shop makes it out to be i think im going to buy them and go to my friends warehouse and use the race lifts and it should be done in no time with 3 people who work on cars for a living
 

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Yeah the instructions of which you just posted make it sound easier than the shop makes it out to be i think im going to buy them and go to my friends warehouse and use the race lifts and it should be done in no time with 3 people who work on cars for a living
There are a few small steps that I skipped but that is the jest of it.

I did mine by myself with one floor jack and 2 jack stands and power tools in about 3 hours. With help from a couple of guys who know what they are doing it should be a breeze. Buy some beers and have some fun.
 

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it's really easy. You don't need a spring compressor either;). put front on jack stands and then use the jack to jack up the arm... unbolt strut and slowly release the jack. the spring will now be fully decompressed. take out strut, swap springs and your done.
 

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Oh yeah, here's the pic u asked for from the back...
does this shifting occur with kits like FRPP and Roush. By the way Juco you need to polish you muffler tips bro lol
 

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it's really easy. You don't need a spring compressor either;). put front on jack stands and then use the jack to jack up the arm... unbolt strut and slowly release the jack. the spring will now be fully decompressed. take out strut, swap springs and your done.
I have done it this way one time, and it is dangerous. I would not recommend this to anyone especially a novice. You can get a spring compressor from Harbor Freight for something like $10-$15 and is a lot safer as well as less work.
 

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So i ran into some money this week and im looking into buying some lowering springs and i was just wondering what the install was like because ive heard mixed reviews and was just wanted to know if this is a driveway job or mor of a shop job any input would be awesome
A lot depends on just how much you are lowering your car as to waht extent you will need to add other aftermarket parts. As "JucoStud" said in post #2 your rear axle housing will shift to the drivers side.

Initially I just put Saleen lowering springs (1.5") on my car, but my rear was out, my pinion angle was out and the front alignment was out. I ended up adding an adjustable panhard bar, upper and lower adjustable control arms (all BMR) and a set of Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates.

You probably don't need to have both upper and lower adjustable control arms, you can correct the pinion angle with just the upper.

The misalignment of my front end was causing wear on the inside tread of my front tires and weird noises from the upper shock mounts. When installing the CC plates the ball bearings from the Ford upper mounts went everywhere and the rest of the mount was chewed up. After installing the CC plates I was able to correct the alignment and no more noise issues.

So my only advice is to look into the other things involved in corretly lowering your car besides just a set of springs. The BMR components are top notch construction and I think very well priced, but there are some other very good products also available.
 

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it's really easy. You don't need a spring compressor either;). put front on jack stands and then use the jack to jack up the arm... unbolt strut and slowly release the jack. the spring will now be fully decompressed. take out strut, swap springs and your done.
that's an easy way to decompress and remove the spring, but it doesn't sound like it would work to install the new spring.
 

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I have done it this way one time, and it is dangerous. I would not recommend this to anyone especially a novice. You can get a spring compressor from Harbor Freight for something like $10-$15 and is a lot safer as well as less work.
I just did mine today without the spring compessor like the vid in the how to section,and it was a breeze.Made the swap very simple.
I put in the Steeda sports in by the way,and it looks great!
The real key is taking your time,and an impact to remove the upper strut nut.
Enjoy!
 
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