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Discussion Starter #1
Alright i have finally got off my ass got an intake cause i am tired of these ford two barrels breaking on me. so four barrel holley here i come. i was wondering what i needed to do, such as valve covers distributer **** like that. also if any one knows the torqu specks are for the intake bolts, it would be great help thanks
 

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You dont need to do anything with replacing valve covers or distributor. Why would those matter if youre just replacing a manifold and carb? Mani torq is 35 ft/pds each bolt and everything should work out great. What problems did you have with your 2 barrell? They are so straight forward, its odd that you had it break. For a stock small block, a holley 600 or 650 works well. Id go with a 600 because you wont have to screw around with that stupid ass transfer tube between bowls. Its a pain in the arss! good luck!
 

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25 ft/lbs. I just put an intake gasket on mine.

Make sure you follow the torque sequence. It should be listed with the new intake you buy. what are you going to get?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
actually it is a weilend from my buddy. an i dont have the bolt sequence. also the four posts that hold the carb down all four broke off the carb. an this happens due to the shitty pot metal material. so any one know the sequence to the bolt pattern?
 

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Dude, bolts are not pot metal and neither in the manifold.
If they are striped or broken then they were massivly overtorqued. Are you sure that manifold is any good?
Is it single plane or dual? Big diff between the two.

The torque sequence is to start with the center bolts, one side, then the other working out in an X pattern. Torque them in steps.

Get a CDI ignition box if you've got the money. Spend your bucks on parts not valve covers.
The Distributor is another whole thread, if you even need one.
 

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and another thing.....


If you don't want your intake to leak, then throw the front and rear cork pieces away that come with the gasket. Use about a 3/8" thick bead of RTV silicone, and overlap it over the gaskets that go between the head and intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yea the feet broke off. so for some reason i am getting that you have to change the firering order? what the hell i am lost seriously. 69 help a dumb mechanic out
 

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Discussion Starter #10
also the refrence to the distributor an valve covers were if i needed to take them off. that is what i meant also it was the feet on the caburator that broke off, i have worked a 14 hour shift give me credit for getting that typed
 

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yea the feet broke off. so for some reason i am getting that you have to change the firering order? what the hell i am lost seriously. 69 help a dumb mechanic out

No no.....Disregard all that other stuff. Just use the torque sequence it shows on there, and it's usually a good idea to torque them to about 18 ft lbs the first time, and them go back around and torque them to 25 ft lbs, and do 25 twice. Go throught he whole sequence once, and then do it again. Just make sure you use RTV for the front and rear, and not the cork gaskets, and it takes a lot of RTV, because the intake doesn't actually touch the block in the front and rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
alright so here are some pic of the project. i do have it finished but need to clear room off the camera. also while doing this i found out my radiator is shot my water pump is gone also i need help routing my heater core lines. i dont know how they were so i need all your input for a 73 heater core house routing.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I was lied to bout that. so my other buddy gave me a summit intake. not to happy bout it but till i can get the one i want it will work.
 
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