FWIW... "If" you decide to change the bulbs in the instrument cluster don't change all 16 bulbs.
6 are for the gauge illumination and the other ten are for turn signals, high beams and warning lights. When you go to buy lights you can get all white or you can get colored ones for specific duties such as green lights for the turn signals. However you cannot put a blue light where the turn signals are because the overlay will only pass green light resulting in a very dull/crappy green. One put colored lights behind where they match the color already in the cluster.
So you"ll need:
6-5 LED lights (for the illumination) - Can be cool or regular white
9 - single LED lights (can be all white or you can get 2 green for blinkers, 1 blue for high beams, 3 red for warning lights and 3 white for the rest.
DO NOT replace your battery light, the LED doesn't provide enough resistance in the circuit and causes the light to stay on even if your charging system is working properly. I just put back one of the working old lights.
Almost Stock has some good points. I recently did this and found a few other things:
Unlike what you might read, LEDs WILL dim if you have that option in your car. People had told me in the past that an LED is either on or off and by switching to them I'll lose the ability to dim them. While it might be true in some cases, it works on my Mustang...not exactly sure why. Maybe they were wrong?
If you want to replace the lights behind the heat controls, you're going to have to find a different style LED than the ones that SuperBrightLEDs sells. Because of the funky front design of the bulb (the 4 nipples), they won't fit in the '92 heat & A/C controls (YMMV on other years - not entirely sure).
Where possible, TEST the lights before putting it all back together. I either forgot to replace the high beams bulb or it doesn't work...either way, I have no high beams indicator right now and I have to take it all apart to fix it. :-(
I wound up replacing my battery light with an LED too, and while it doesn't stay on all the time like Almost Stock mentions, it DOES flicker a fair amount at idle. When I look at my volt meter, it's only showing 12V and not a full 14V, so maybe that's normal. It turns off as soon as the volt meter goes back to 14V (i.e. - as soon as I start driving).