[energiesource]

im only replacing the right side because its worn down way too bad. the left side is fine, plus the left side tensioner is on top so there isnt as much pressure on it as there is on the right side where its on the bottom. if the left one was worn id replace it, but it isnt.

 

[dannyboy281]

oh ok well have fun putting it back together if you can have a buddy help you set the chains

 

[energiesource]

i have everything on now already, the timing was easy to set, i just have to wait for the new parts to come in to switch them out. the reassembly is whats going to get me. and seeing if everything clears when i turn the crank lol

 

[DickH]

saw mention of aftermarket chains? Dont tease, but do they have a lighter chain, whats the point? I know on bikes the swap down to a lighter chain for a little extra power, so I was curious if there was a smaller/lighter chain that could be used to reduce the loss.

 

[Black01]

**** son

 

[SWEET2KSTANG]

thats good bro you wont regret it but why only one guide, one tensioner and one tensioner arm why not both for each im wondering?

oh sweet2kstang the reason behind me saying to use the factory chains is that i have heard the aftermarkets often break on you by loosing a rivet but this of course is what i have heard from others mustang owners and my good friend who is a mechanic so im just taking precaution but who knows i could be wrong

i understand, i personally havent heard of anything like that. good heads up tho, and i will keep that in mind.

saw mention of aftermarket chains? Dont tease, but do they have a lighter chain, whats the point? I know on bikes the swap down to a lighter chain for a little extra power, so I was curious if there was a smaller/lighter chain that could be used to reduce the loss.

no "lighter" chains for the timing set. the bikes go to them, but the chain is a big thing on the bikes. there is a market and a..........i guess you can say "need" for them on the bikes.

 

[B0B]

my RH hand tensioner and arm were about identical to that.. dunno why. the left side is fine. i replaced everything. cams, gears, cam bolts, tensioners, chains, and guides.

 

[JasonT1124]

Tensioners wear out because of stretched chains...
replace them both, on both sides... its the right thing to do.

and i HOPE you degreed your cams... even if you dont feel any resistance when turning the crank, i promise you will have issues if you do not.

 

[energiesource]

Tensioners wear out because of stretched chains...
replace them both, on both sides... its the right thing to do.

and i HOPE you degreed your cams... even if you dont feel any resistance when turning the crank, i promise you will have issues if you do not.

no i did not degree it. i dont have the heads off and am not aware of a way to do it without having them off. i thought dial indicators and degree wheels and all that needed to be used with the heads off and the pistons showing. if theres a way to degree them with the heads on can someone please let me know

 

[JasonT1124]

no i did not degree it. i dont have the heads off and am not aware of a way to do it without having them off. i thought dial indicators and degree wheels and all that needed to be used with the heads off and the pistons showing. if theres a way to degree them with the heads on can someone please let me know

The only way to do it is with the heads on.

The degree process sets the time exactly between the cam gears and the crank gears.

you need a degree kit, which has dial indicators, tdc stops, degree wheels, etc. I think there is a step by step somewhere on this site.