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Discussion Starter #1
Winters suck.

To make a long story short i came across an 96 XJ, all stock for less than 1500. Thats the good news. The bad is that it would need the driver side pan patched or replaced under the driver seat just below the rear mount, another soft spot just behind that, and the rocker needs replaced under the left rear door, but id likely replace the entire thing. Most do the work themselves it seems, but for those that cant (like me), whats a ballpark estimate (labor only) for something like this?

Others have suggested pop rivets and bedliner, which i have seen done, but thats not for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So whats a ballpark estimate on the floors? I figure the rocker would be atleast500. Thats what it cost for the mustang anyway.
 

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I did mine myself, I'd say it's cheaper to find a clean one than to pay to have it fixed.

They are known for floors and rockers, did you pull all the carpet up? Back hatch area too?

While you're looking check lower front spring mounts on axle, and control arm mounts to sub frame.

---------- Post added at 03:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:27 AM ----------

Also pics might help with giving an estimate
 

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If you prep stuff up it will be cheaper. Welders can bend you over if you don't know them. They make a glue(two part compound) that bonds metal. That could be another option for you. My brother is a pro body man/painter. The compound is regularly used to attach items as large as new bed sides. Most trucks are spot welded and glued from the factory these days. I did some floor patches on my K5. You basically cut out the rot, clean up the edges to bare metal, get a nice thick piece of steel, clean that up and apply the compound. Throw a few rivets to hold it down until it dries. Then you can grid the rivets down if they bother you. You could do the same on the rockers, they make entire panels for the rockers.

Not show quality but you can make it look nice and it lasts. I will try and find a picture of the compound.

---------- Post added at 09:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:36 AM ----------



This is the stuff. If you bond metal together you will destroy it before it comes apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you prep stuff up it will be cheaper. Welders can bend you over if you don't know them. They make a glue(two part compound) that bonds metal. That could be another option for you. My brother is a pro body man/painter. The compound is regularly used to attach items as large as new bed sides. Most trucks are spot welded and glued from the factory these days. I did some floor patches on my K5. You basically cut out the rot, clean up the edges to bare metal, get a nice thick piece of steel, clean that up and apply the compound. Throw a few rivets to hold it down until it dries. Then you can grid the rivets down if they bother you. You could do the same on the rockers, they make entire panels for the rockers.

Not show quality but you can make it look nice and it lasts. I will try and find a picture of the compound.

---------- Post added at 09:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:36 AM ----------



This is the stuff. If you bond metal together you will destroy it before it comes apart.
I think the shop nearby uses that stuff, or something similar. Never used it myself. Not sure if that 96 is still for sale as the listing is gone. I have been looking at others and i swear some people are flat out crazy.

I looked at a 95 today priced at 3 grand. It was a trade in. Ok, where do i start lol. The floors were absolutely disgusting for the price. The entire entire passenger side needs replaced as there were a couple holes a good 3-4" across, and thats not counting the rust around them that was falling off. You could see the rubber backing on the carpet. Both rear corners of the cargo area just behind the taillights were practically gone, and the toe boards were starting to go. The rockers were surprisingly solid. The fuel filter was peeling (i doubt it was EVER changed), steering fluid looked and felt like motor oil, and there were bits and pieces held together with duct tape. And the tires were going bald (two were down to 1/8" and the rest werent far behind). There was more but you get the idea. I showed the guy some rust and he said hed sell for 1800 on the spot. I passed. Speaking of passed, it somehow passed inspection as the tags was for 2016. Missing floors and bald tires? Riiiight. Thats some shady **** right there. No concept of safety. I didnt even bother taking it for a drive. They obviously didnt look it over when it was traded. I knew more about that Cherokee than they did lol. The guy was dumbfounded. Sad.

On the way home i stumbled across another for 4 grand. Very clean. Didnt find any rust worth mentioning which was amazing. Didnt get to drive it tho. Guy mustve went home, bummer. It was a 2000. Not sure i want to deal with 4 oxygen sensors and coil packs anyway. I prefer the older models. Maybe ill go back for it tho...if its still there.

There are a couple more on my list but the sellers work weeks and mine dont play well, and management is unwilling to work with me so i cant get to look at anything for a while. Bastards.
 

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I would pass on one of these that needed a bit of body work imo. I looked at a 94 with a blown head gasket, and a an orange sized hole in the passenger rear floor a couple weeks ago. Nothing not fairly easily fixable for one of these. He wanted a 1k but said he would take 700 when I got there. Everything else on it was fine. I passed on it since down here I can find them with no floor rot for under 1500, and not deal with that or the head gasket.

Same guy I looked at that one bought one from a dealer here with zero rot, 4-6" lift I forget what it had, front and rear off road bumpers with winch, new tires, etc for 3500. Nice looking jeep someone traded in a couple days before I met him.

You should try to look further South if the one's up North are priced that bad for what you get. If you are able to. It really isn't worth the headache imo to deal with body rot on an XJ if you can avoid it.
 

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I paid $2300 for this 1999 a few years ago. It was clean from Florida, some girl owned it. It has 205,000 on it now. The tranny was serviced at 175,000 by the previous owner. Mileage doesn't mean anything to the 4.0. Crank Positioning sensor, TPS, valve cover gasket, fuel filter adapter gasket is the norm that goes wrong with these motors. Other than that they are bulletproof.

 

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Crank Positioning sensor, TPS, and GASKETS is the norm that goes wrong with these motors. Other than that they are bulletproof. [/IMG]
Fixed. lol

Pretty much every gasket in the 4.0 is known to leak. Right now I only have my valve cover gasket leaking (for the second time). But I've already replaced it once, oil pan gasket, tranny gasket, rear main seal, front main seal, oil gasket adapter/seal, and front and rear pinion seals. Seriously, these motors always leak from every gasket.
 

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I must be lucky, I have replaced the two gaskets I mentioned. Either way leaks or not the 4.0 is one of the best motors out there. It's like a mini Cummins.
You are one of the lucky ones. I know at least 10 people and all of them have leaks all over the place. Looking online will show you the same thing. They are excellent motors that seem to run forever. As they say for the 4.0, as long as it's leaking you know there's still oil. When it's not leaking, you have a problem (because you're out of oil).
 

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I paid $2300 for this 1999 a few years ago. It was clean from Florida, some girl owned it. It has 205,000 on it now. The tranny was serviced at 175,000 by the previous owner. Mileage doesn't mean anything to the 4.0. Crank Positioning sensor, TPS, valve cover gasket, fuel filter adapter gasket is the norm that goes wrong with these motors. Other than that they are bulletproof.

Not all 4.0 engines are equal. The newer powertec that came in the 01 xj has head cracking issues and they like to throw rods.

The good news is you can always replace with an older motor and if you need to you can use the older stronger hear. But you've got to rig up mounting brackets for the coils if you use the older head.

---------- Post added at 12:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:31 PM ----------

Fixed. lol

Pretty much every gasket in the 4.0 is known to leak. Right now I only have my valve cover gasket leaking (for the second time). But I've already replaced it once, oil pan gasket, tranny gasket, rear main seal, front main seal, oil gasket adapter/seal, and front and rear pinion seals. Seriously, these motors always leak from every gasket.
The power tec in the wj is a piece of junk. The bummer about those is the mounts don't make it possible to swap an older block into them.
 

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Not all 4.0 engines are equal. The newer powertec that came in the 01 xj has head cracking issues and they like to throw rods.

The good news is you can always replace with an older motor and if you need to you can use the older stronger hear. But you've got to rig up mounting brackets for the coils if you use the older head.

---------- Post added at 12:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:31 PM ----------



The power tec in the wj is a piece of junk. The bummer about those is the mounts don't make it possible to swap an older block into them.
I'm not talking about just WJ's. I have a WJ but my buddies have everything from Wranglers to Cherokees and they all leak. It's nothing new and it always happens to them. They're known for it and it's all over online (often called a 4 leaker). I'm NOT saying they're bad engines at all. If I bought a Jeep again, I would buy another 4.0. I'm just making sure the OP knows that the engine is going to leak oil before he buys it.

I also have no issues with the 4.0 PowerTech in my WJ except for the oil leaks that happen on any 4.0. I wouldn't call it a piece of junk either. Why are the WJ PowerTech's pieces of junk?

Not all Powertec 4.0 have cracked heads. Powertec engines were from 99-04. The 99 engines didn't have cracked head issues. The issue came from the 0331 head casting without the TUPY casting. If I remember right that was from 2000-late 2002. If it's in that range without the TUPY cast, the head will likely be cracked. If not in that range, it probably won't have head issues.
 

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I'm not talking about just WJ's. I have a WJ but my buddies have everything from Wranglers to Cherokees and they all leak. It's nothing new and it always happens to them. They're known for it and it's all over online (often called a 4 leaker). I'm NOT saying they're bad engines at all. If I bought a Jeep again, I would buy another 4.0. I'm just making sure the OP knows that the engine is going to leak oil before he buys it.

I also have no issues with the 4.0 PowerTech in my WJ except for the oil leaks that happen on any 4.0. I wouldn't call it a piece of junk either. Why are the WJ PowerTech's pieces of junk?

Not all Powertec 4.0 have cracked heads. Powertec engines were from 99-04. The 99 engines didn't have cracked head issues. The issue came from the 0331 head casting without the TUPY casting. If I remember right that was from 2000-late 2002. If it's in that range without the TUPY cast, the head will likely be cracked. If not in that range, it probably won't have head issues.
Let's put it this way. Of my 27 jeeps I've owned any time I've had a powertec engine I've bought a spare. Tj wj xj. Doesn't matter. They like to throw rods.

My buddy tossed a rod in his 01 wj and we put another 80k mile motor in it. 10k later it did it again. And this is someone who's had twice as many jeeps as me. Not some idiot that doesn't maintain his stuff.

---------- Post added November 16th, 2015 at 12:24 AM ---------- Previous post was November 15th, 2015 at 11:13 PM ----------



Do the PowerTech in the dd while doing the PowerTech in the toy... why not...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Looked at a 97 tonight, and while it has some of the typical Jeep stuff going on, its not bad at all. However, the electric fan is missing. Aside from a factory replacement, which of these would you consider?

Fits 97 01 Jeep Cherokee Radiator Cooling Fan Motor New | eBay

Radiator Cooling Fan Motor w 10 Blades New for 97 01 Cherokee 4 0L I6 | eBay

New Radiator Fan 52028337AC Jeep Cherokee 2001 2000 99 98 97 Auto Car Parts 1999 | eBay

Also, the lower tabs where the fan clips to the radiator are rusted and cracked, the vertical support is broke loose at the bottom, and a small tab on the passenger side broke off in my hand. With that said, who makes the best replacement radiators? I do not care for the aluminum with plastic tanks, i have no interest in them. I see everyone talking about metal radiators. Metal? I thought they would be copper and brass?
 

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I had an 01 and that was the best bang for your buck vehicle I've ever owned. Bought it with 97k on it. Stupid clean inside and out. I did a tune up, replaced the valve cover gasket, oil gauge sending unit and a piece of the rubber hose for the emission next the the charcoal box and that was all. It ran like a champ. Now I did upgrade stereo, replace headliner and replace all the from suspension wear parts as nice to have stuff but I could of drive it another 100k with out that. I sold it for 500 more than I paid for it. The kid that has it is local and every time I see him he tells me how much he loves it.

---------- Post added at 08:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:08 PM ----------

I'll buy another just for a dd when I get the mustang built up more and don't want to dd it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Lets see if you can figure this one out. 97 Cherokee XJ with the factory AM/FM cassette player. Presets 1-4 work as they should, but as soon as you press the 5/EJT button it goes nuts and starts clicking and the gears start spinning for a couple seconds, one of them sounds like its grinding, then everything stops. It was fine until the 5/EJT button was pressed. The player is empty, and i never even tried to play a cassette, i was just trying to use the preset. What happened? I assume the eject function is bugged. It only does it in ACC, RUN and once the engine is started. It stops doing whatever its doing after a couple seconds and wont do it again until you put the key back in ACC, RUN or restart the engine.

I might be buying the 97 if its the head unit gone bad and nothing more, but id still like to know what happened and how to fix it. I couldnt care less about cassette player so if it cant be fixed ill just grab an AM/FM radio only piece online or from a yard.
 

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The fix is easy if it were me. Radio swap. Never had a radio problem with my Jeeps to help more than that. They were either there and worked, or it had no radio when I bought it.

Is anything else wrong with it other than the radio? If there is not much or any rust, it is mechanically sound, electronics work(other than radio), drive's right, and looks decent I wouldn't pass it up over a less than 100 dollar fix for the radio if you buy new, probably less than 20 if you get a junk yard radio.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I would never pass on something because of the radio, was just curious as to what the issue might be. It needs a little suspension work which is the worst of it, nothing i cant handle. It has very little rust underneath. They are only asking 2 grand which is just fine with me. Looks like a winner.
 
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