Modded Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 85 Mustang 4 days ago just got it up and running solid. I wanna start looking into aftermarket parts, I was wondering what brand I should go with. I wanna get the best parts, and not cheap out I am looking to get around 300 RWHP or, more. Any suggestions on were I should start and which brands I should go with any help at all would be much appreciated thank you !
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts
Good looking car. Reminds me of the '86 my brother had.......back in '86. He bought it new (yes, I'm old)

How many miles on it? can your current engine handle boost. That's the quickest path to more power. Auto, or manual? Have you considered a R&P change.

How much are you willing to spend?

I got no thoughts on NA power adders. I got my Fox body last week.

I do have a procharger for my '01. It's not installed yet, but on a stock engine with a tune and supporting fuel mods, I'm hoping for about 350 to 380 at the wheels. That is of course a whole different engine. When I got the '01 I considered all the small add on's, but finally settled on 3.73 R&P and boost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
speedometer has been unplugged at 79637 so I don't honestly know. However the motor has been completely rebuilt and the compression test I preformed came back prefect. I do believe with another rebuild with higher rated parts the motor could take the stress of a Forced induction setup but that would be a lot of work because the carb, don't get wrong I'm not shy to getting a good project going. I Just kinda wanted to see if I couldn't get the motor N/A pushing that. what is R&P if you don't mind me asking haha i'm a young guy still got a lot to learn xp.also how do you like the 3.73 gear ratio, and what year fox body do you have ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts
speedometer has been unplugged at 79637 so I don't honestly know. However the motor has been completely rebuilt and the compression test I preformed came back prefect. I do believe with another rebuild with higher rated parts the motor could take the stress of a Forced induction setup but that would be a lot of work because the carb, don't get wrong I'm not shy to getting a good project going. I Just kinda wanted to see if I couldn't get the motor N/A pushing that. what is R&P if you don't mind me asking haha i'm a young guy still got a lot to learn xp.also how do you like the 3.73 gear ratio, and what year fox body do you have ?
R&P= ring and pinion.
I love the 3.73 with the manual. Had a '02 with 3.55's with a manual and it was a dog compared to the 3.73s with manual.
My fox body is an '88.
My current plan is to fix the last 30 years of neglected issues, make it a really good driver, beat the crap out of it and then see if I need more power.
I'm hoping the '01 will feed the power need and fox body will just remain a nice daily driver.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
my fox body is a manual wouldn't have it any other way. plan is to make this fox body the powerhouse of my cars :D probably should get me some 3.73. The fox I got was a steal shes been really well kept mildy upgraded no abuses interior is almost perfect new wheels brakes holly carb cam etc
 

·
Qwik Enuff
Joined
·
773 Posts
If you dont make long commutes to work in the car,the 3:73 is the best gear to run.If its the other way around,the 3:55's are usually better.Since youre carbed,heads/cam/intake/headers will have to be replaced,but at least you dont have to worry about buying a throttle body,maf sensor,etc etc.Im not sure what exact combo is needed to bring a 85 to 300hp.A supercharger is by far the easiest way to reach 300hp,but it'll cost a little more than the h/c/i/h route.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
monkey said something similar. Do you have anyone in mind who makes a really solid supercharger for an 85 I have no issue saving up money to purchase the kit. It's just I wanted to makes that motor nasty to not just supercharger it. If you get what I mean. I will probably run 3.73 as any super long trips I have others cars
 

·
Qwik Enuff
Joined
·
773 Posts
Dont forget to replace the oem speedo gear with the correct one for 3.73 gears.Its a 21 tooth Part #LRS 17271C-K....

I retract my recommendation for a supercharger.The only one I saw was a Paxton kit at $4050+ and that didnt include all of the necessities like a specific type Demon or Holley carb,etc.The Weind & B&M type blowers were alot cheaper,but they tend to run much hotter than a Paxton centrifugal supercharger due to their roots design.I cant believe the price for a carbed supercharger like the Paxton.You can get efi kits cheaper than that.Oh well,my bad.Ive always ran AFR or Trick Flow heads on my lx,but its got a small stroker & efi so the same heads that work great on my combo might not work as well on a carbed 302.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Yeah the supercharger kits are expensive I already got a holly carb and all but I have decided to buy a bare block and just make a motor from the ground up going with a dart 302 racing block. Going with top end parts along with strong durable parts plan on having nos at some point for that extra go when I need it. Also what is the safe rpm on the 5.0 before the redline. on another note do you have any idea what the solenoids are on the left and right side near the fire wall of the motor are. They had vacuum lines running to them which were discounted I reinstalled them and it made a huge jump in performance I just have no idea what they are.
 

·
Rent Asunder!
Joined
·
11,806 Posts
You don't need forced induction to get to 300whp.

Just clean up the stock block, reuse the stock crank and rods, and put in a set of flat top pistons. TFS TW 170 FAC heads are about $1,300 assembled and ready to bolt on. Use an Edelbrock RPM airgap intake manifold and 750 cfm Street Demon carb with a good set of long tubes and a mild cam like the Lunati Voodoo 262/270. It'll make around 9.6:1 compression, have strong mid-range torque, and should have no issue making 300-320rwhp with 320-340rwtq.

EDIT: In fact, this is what I get when I plug that exact combo into Engine Analyzer Pro with a 15% drivetrain loss factor.

 

·
Rent Asunder!
Joined
·
11,806 Posts
Yeah the supercharger kits are expensive I already got a holly carb and all but I have decided to buy a bare block and just make a motor from the ground up going with a dart 302 racing block. Going with top end parts along with strong durable parts plan on having nos at some point for that extra go when I need it. Also what is the safe rpm on the 5.0 before the redline. on another note do you have any idea what the solenoids are on the left and right side near the fire wall of the motor are. They had vacuum lines running to them which were discounted I reinstalled them and it made a huge jump in performance I just have no idea what they are.
If you're going to buy a new SHP block, might as well go ahead and get one with a 4.125" bore. They're the same price as a standard bore and the cost for pistons is negligible.
 

·
Qwik Enuff
Joined
·
773 Posts
This is just my opinion,but if 350hp(300 rwhp)is all youre after,you'd be better off keeping the stock block & spending the cash you saved on a nice set of stage 2 heads or even better a stroker kit.The stock block will handle up to 450hp safely.
If youre dead set on the Dart block,it would be a waste to throw stock parts in it when you could be dropping a stroker kit in it.If you were to buy the Dart block,with the 4.125" bore,and drop a 347 stroker crank,rods & pistons in place,you'd have a killer 363ci street/strip engine with 450+hp(with the right heads,cam & intake)
If you decide to get the Dart block & use the stock crank & rods,youll gain a few cubic inches if you get the block with a 4.125" bore & use oversized pistons.Your engine will go from 302ci up to 321ci,by using the larger bore & pistons.
The following link details a Dart SHP block & stroker combo,which made 476hp.

Dart SHP Sport-Block Engine Build - Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords Magazine
 

·
Rent Asunder!
Joined
·
11,806 Posts
Or just find a stock 351W bottom end and put a good heads/cam/intake combo on it. Very easy 300+whp with 50+ more wtq. Plus the 9.5 deck 351W blocks are considerably stronger than its younger 8.2 deck brother. A stock 351W H.O. bottom end can handle 800+whp with a good tune. Several fox bodies have low 9s in the 1/4, some diving down in the 8s, on a completely stock 351W block, crank, rods, and pistons with just ARP hardware.

Then you can take the money you saved by NOT buying an expensive Dart block and aftermarket rotating assembly and buy a Vortech or Procharger kit. Even better, put that money toward a 6-71 blower kit. Nothing meaner looking than a roots blower sticking out of the hood.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
990 Posts
First and foremost what is your intention with the car? The more power, the less gear you want so I wouldn't swap gears till you get that figured out.

I've done a lot of motor research and builds the last few years. Including blowing a stock block with a 347. Currently running a 393, a 351w stroked, and am very happy with it.Though it can be a handful on the street. But, if you want to drop the coin on a aftermarket block build, the Ford motors are actually a good deal. For what you get and the fact that they have a warranty. https://lmr.com/item/M6007Z363RT/1979-95-Mustang-Ford-Racing-Frpp-363-Boss-Crate-Engine

Pics of solenoids? They are probably not relevant to performance other then stopping a vacuum leak.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I had a 93 fox its pretty much all stock we put a E cam intake and vortex blower pushing like 8psi car made over 400 hp and lasted 13 years b4 one piston ring gave out
 

·
Resident Know-it-all
Joined
·
2,961 Posts
I read all of this thread, and out of all the suggestions rdy4war has one of the best combos out there. I also agree with staying with the stock block na. A stroker would be nice but get the heads can and intake done and see how you like it first. Long, expensive projects you can't drive and enjoy get old fast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,399 Posts
Before you buy gears, check and see what rear end you have. The 85's came with 7.5. I'd find an 8.8 before you buy gears, unless the swap has already been made. I have an 82 Capri that I ran with a 89 5.0 HO short block, out of the box TW 170's, Comp XE 266hr cam, RPM air gap, T5 & 3.73's. I don't know what kind of HP it made, but it ran a 12.36 first time at the track.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top