[WillyT]

I've ever had the pleasure of working on. 351W that will be stroked up. Don't even have a car to put it in! :facepalm:

Haven't even looked up the casting number yet. Bought it off a guy for $40. Says it can out of a late 70's or early 80's van. #5 piston melted a little, but meh. Will keep updated with pics :yes

 

[fogged306]

Hone job and some new rings and you'll be good to go....

 

[Ohsplat]

That dont need honed... Wd40 and a wire brush.

 

[LX88]

Honed and hot tanked! Definitely a great deal though.

 

[LX88]

I need to start looking for deals like this.....

 

[FastStang91Lx]

Yep, you're right.... Nasty!!! lol

 

[bigjohnstud4200]

Yep, you're right.... Nasty!!! lol

It'll buff out.

 

[gripthenboost]

Getting them pistons out are going to be a bitch.

 

[WillyT]

Anybody need a crank? lol. Cam had to be removed via slide hammer. Pistons and rods came out OK. The trick is to wire brush the rust and corrosion off the cylinder walls before you start hammering on them. The crank I'll probably clean up, grind, and make available for sale. It's a stripped block, ready for cleaning. I got pretty lucky, no visible cracks on the head surface. It'll clean up real sexy once a CBN bit runs over it.

It won't be hot tanked. The stuff we use won't attack corrosion this bad. It'll be baked and blasted. The caps are in the hot tank right now and will be glass beaded. Ordering a set of ARP main bolts (not studs, the extra $ for the studs isn't worth it) to check the main housing bores once the block is tumbled. I'll get some pics of the process...maybe a tech article is in the works?

I need to start looking for deals like this.....

If you think that's a deal, you don't want to know what I paid for the Eagle crank I got :naughty:

 

[1993notch]

did someone tell them since he burned a cylender it was a boat ancor and he really did it? lol

 

[WillyT]

did someone tell them since he burned a cylender it was a boat ancor and he really did it? lol

:lmao that thought crossed my mind!

The crank:

EDIT: this used to show a picture of a cast Eagle crank. since I'm not using the crank anymore (switched to a 4340 one), it's kinda useless to change the picture because photobucket is useless.

 

[Austin]

What did you pay for the crank?

 

[WillyT]

$90

 

[3valveStallion]

these pics are getting me excited, yeah its nasty looking but its not 40$ nasty looking, you have to expect some work, awesome job, the crank and block was steal

 

[PerfectlyInsane]

feeling like a dumb *ss now, cam across an eagle crank for $50 at a swap meet

 

[fogged306]

The extra $ for studs is worth it. They have more clamping force than bolts and do a better job at preventing cap walk. Definitely well worth it on a 2 bolt block.

 

[WillyT]

If I were doing a power adder...super or turbo...then I would go with studs. But it's going to be a high compression N/A, so I'm not too worried about it.

 

[FastStang91Lx]

Hell, I even have my heads, intake, throttle body, and valve covers studded :lmao... If you think about the difference in clamping force as well as being coarse thread vs. fine thread, well, it's a no brainer, but each to their own. High compression is stressful too, depending on how high you are talking

 

[WillyT]

The mains will be bolts, but the heads will definitely be studs.

Accessory studs look pretty sharp, especially for exterior pieces like the covers and throttle body.

 

[9-secgt]

good deal for sure..post up some pics after it comes back from machine shop....and pics of engine assembly....