Modded Mustang Forums banner

81 - 100 of 165 Posts

·
WOT Junkie
Joined
·
1,163 Posts
I've seen good things from mixing 10W-30 with STP oil additive as assembly lube. That's what we did at our motorsports lab at school when we were assembling our Formula race cars.
 

·
mr. chokebot
Joined
·
749 Posts
Discussion Starter #83
I've seen good things from mixing 10W-30 with STP oil additive as assembly lube. That's what we did at our motorsports lab at school when we were assembling our Formula race cars.
;)

Also some ZDDP additive if we're feeling kinky
 

·
mr. chokebot
Joined
·
749 Posts
Discussion Starter #85 (Edited)
And we keep on keeping on...

I decided if I'm going to do this, I may as well do it right. Cut the main caps to align hone the block. Shaved them down so the vertical clearance is between -.004" and -.005", enough for a clean up cut. I'll probably have our guy hone them out to the high limits of what Ford calls for (3.1930") to give me some oil clearance.

Also at this point, I'm debating on whether or not I want to machine the mains for some oil squirters, but I just can't see that being worth the trouble. I was thinking some Gen 2 DSM oil jets would fit nicely, or maybe Porsche 944 jets, but that's a lot of work for a street N/A build.




 

·
mr. chokebot
Joined
·
749 Posts
Discussion Starter #86
Well, at least it's partially machined. Still have to do the decks, but that'll happen after trial assembly, try to get it to a zero deck, at least as close as possible. Survived at .030" over, so that leaves me with LOTS of choices for pistons, lucky me!

So, still to be done, physically, to the block:
  • Surfaced
  • Lifter bores flex-honed
  • Oil passages power brushed
  • Possible grinding for stroker clearance
  • Oil passage holes tapped for threaded plugs
  • Probably one or two other things I'm forgetting


 

·
Cruising the backroads
Joined
·
5,192 Posts
i think dad is pulling the trigger on the $300 fox. Its nothing fancy, but we're doing a 4 cyl rally race, then its getting converted to a 351... I need to take and tear that poor thing down as it has locked up. I cant wait...
 

·
mr. chokebot
Joined
·
749 Posts
Discussion Starter #91
I tell you what...if you want to do something a little different, keep the 2.3 and build that up. Not too many guys do that, they just swap in a SBF and call it a day. Find a Volvo B234 head and convert the 2.3 into a DOHC. Maybe with a turbo. It's been done, but it's rare enough that it would turn some heads.
 

·
Resident Know-it-all
Joined
·
2,951 Posts
Well, at least it's partially machined. Still have to do the decks, but that'll happen after trial assembly, try to get it to a zero deck, at least as close as possible. Survived at .030" over, so that leaves me with LOTS of choices for pistons, lucky me!

So, still to be done, physically, to the block:
  • Surfaced
  • Lifter bores flex-honed
  • Oil passages power brushed
  • Possible grinding for stroker clearance
  • Oil passage holes tapped for threaded plugs
  • Probably one or two other things I'm forgetting
A word of caution/advice. Flex honing the lifter bores on a ford is a no no unless it's absolutely necessary to get a lifter to go into the bore. Now, there is a caveat to this, and that is if you are running a solid roller camshaft this applies, but it's not as relevant. When the engine runs normally there is some wear in the lifter bores. This wear allows extra oil to leak past the lifters that didn't when the engine was new. After a lot of miles the lifter bore clearance can be increased. Now, get someone that goes happy with a flex hone in those bores and what you get is an engine that has noisy valvetrain(clacking) and low oil pressure(these engines get pressure from the lifter galleys). I speak from experience. I worked on a guys engine for what seemed an eternity before figuring out the machinist had honed the crap out of his lifter bores causing all his issues. We replaced the block and with all things the same, engine oil pressure was up to spec and the valvetrain quieted down to normal.
Just a bit of advice, take it or leave it. I have other advice, but I'd rather leave that to a PM if you are interested in hearing it as I don't like sharing some of these secrets publicly as they've taken me years to learn.
 

·
mr. chokebot
Joined
·
749 Posts
Discussion Starter #98
A word of caution/advice. Flex honing the lifter bores on a ford is a no no unless it's absolutely necessary to get a lifter to go into the bore. Now, there is a caveat to this, and that is if you are running a solid roller camshaft this applies, but it's not as relevant. When the engine runs normally there is some wear in the lifter bores. This wear allows extra oil to leak past the lifters that didn't when the engine was new. After a lot of miles the lifter bore clearance can be increased. Now, get someone that goes happy with a flex hone in those bores and what you get is an engine that has noisy valvetrain(clacking) and low oil pressure(these engines get pressure from the lifter galleys). I speak from experience. I worked on a guys engine for what seemed an eternity before figuring out the machinist had honed the crap out of his lifter bores causing all his issues. We replaced the block and with all things the same, engine oil pressure was up to spec and the valvetrain quieted down to normal.
Just a bit of advice, take it or leave it. I have other advice, but I'd rather leave that to a PM if you are interested in hearing it as I don't like sharing some of these secrets publicly as they've taken me years to learn.
Interesting. That's why I wanted to go with a flex hone instead of a rigid hone, to keep the sizes from opening up too much. The tumble blasting can do some work to the machined surfaces of a block, which is why I was going to hone them at all. I'll have to find a lifter and try them out, see how they feel. I'm planning on a hydraulic roller setup, so there's that.

I'm always interested in learning new stuff :)
 

·
Cruising the backroads
Joined
·
5,192 Posts
wow look at the space between cylinders... one reason those 351w must be so strong

id love to one day completly tear my 302 apart and hone/polish/wash everything, rebuild it with a windage tray, balance and blueprint with feather weight internals
your 302's the same way. one of the main differences between the 302 and 351 is the deck height. im not sure on everything else. 302 and 351 heads are interchangeable.
 
81 - 100 of 165 Posts
Top