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Discussion Starter #1
I haven't seen much for the 3v when it comes to light weight N/A rotating assemblies. They all use heavy but strong forged setups. The route that I really like is the one less traveled in which is fully N/A with a streetable setup. To release some hp it seems to me that one area that people forget about are lighter parts in the rotating assembly.

Has anybody done, thought about, or done any research on a light weight rotating assembly for the 3v? Also, I'd like to know if these parts would be reliable enough for a N/A daily driver. No nitrous

discuss...
 

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I agree, I would like to know what the weight comparisons are on some of these aftermarket crank, rods and pistons/pins. Who has the lightest crank and rods ?
 

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Mike is correct :lol

but I think he means aftermarket, forged internals, sir
 

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Ha Ha, I want to build an 11 to 1 stroker, call me a fool but I've been looking at the big bore alum. block.
 

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forged crank, I beam rods, aluminum pistons. Thats about the lightest you are gonna get. Get some custom made Oliver rods or something. Off the shelf though, its going to be a cheap I beam rod.
 

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I think Manley makes an ultra light billet I beam rod...........somebody does. Its all still going to be heavier than factory.
 

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I've read the I-beams are lighter than the H-beams. What about the crank ?
 

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N/A just use the stock crank you think silver? Is there anything lighter that wouldn't cost a arm and a leg?

How much money you got................Titanium rods? LOL.

I started to research it some. Lets just say custom parts are in your future, at least i never found a kit i liked. I talked to livernois about it as well and went over some custom options.

Then i kinda got stuck on the 5.0 cammer block, with stock stroke, stock crank, either stock rods or custom rods, custom 94mm aluminum pistons, and a valvetrain that can handle 7500 rpms.

Thats breif but you get the point.

Hit me up if you ever want to chat.

Good luck.
 

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From what research I've done, the Kellog crank is a little lighter than the Eagle crank as for the the stocker, can't get an exact weight but seems to be about as much as the Kellog. Ti rods are usually too rich for my blood but it would be awesome !
 

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One thing that will save you weight is to go hypereutectic pistons over forged. For an N/A motor, it's likely you don't need the extra strength of the forged pistons.
 

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That's about the max I would want to go with on cubes. I want to be able to rev this thing. The thing is your talking about a $3000 block and $2000-2500 in a rotating assembly, just can't see how this thing totals up to over $7100.
 

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My (very simplified) understanding is that if you want rpm, you want to get your cubes from bore, not stroke.

Doesn't the FRPP big-bore 5.0 run the same stroke as a 4.6? If so, that seems like it'd be the hot ticket.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
This is all good info. Thnx guys. I hope this may inspire someone to further research this idea and maybe even execute it.
 

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That's about the max I would want to go with on cubes. I want to be able to rev this thing. The thing is your talking about a $3000 block and $2000-2500 in a rotating assembly, just can't see how this thing totals up to over $7100.


Yeah I don't know either besides the fact that it has a custom 3.700'' sleeve and custom Diamond big bore pistons. I just don't see how that'd add 1500-2000 to the price of a forged shortblock.

There is one dyno result of the Livernois 323 big bore block, of a 2009 Bullitt Mustang with these mods:

Livernois Motorsports 323ci Big Bore Stroker Longblock
Livernois Motorsports Stage 3 CNC Heads
Livernois Motorsports Custom Camshafts(specs unknown)
Livernois Motorsports Cam Phaser Limiters
Livernois Motorsports Crankshaft Scraper
Livernois "Reload" CNC Valve Covers
C&L Intake Manifold
Innovators West Damper
Kooks Longtube Headers and X-Pipe w/ Cats
Whipple Single Blade Throttle Body
Ram Clutch
Dynotech 1-Piece Driveshaft
Ford Racing Handling Package


It made 403rwhp before the C&L intake manifold was installed, 415rwhp after. That is pretty disappointing seeing how Rich has made close to 430rwhp before with the stock bore/stroke/compression, milder heads/cams, and a dual blade TB. Yes he did make that power with a JPC manifold on his car, but that doesn't change much because that stroker is still WAY more aggressive based on several factors.

It also is disappointing knowing that Eaglestroker on s197forum/TMS made about 415rwhp with 21 less cubes, less aggressive heads/cams, dual blade TB, less HP making longtubes, and lower than stock compression.

There are definitely factors that can considerably vary dyno numbers, but one would think that a very aggressive, high comp, big cube N/A setup would make considerably more than others.

But hey, what do I know about what cars should dyno at, I'm 14. : P
 

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If you're going to stay with the 4.6 L motor for a n/a build, there's no reason to change the stock internals. As has been mentioned, they're the lightest rotating assembly for this motor. Whatever you do with cams, heads, and bolt-ons, you'll never reach the limit of the rotating assembly. Now if you're goning to put in a stroker kit, while still staying n/a, it would be nice to find the lightest kit available.
 

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I'm sure you could have a machine shop do a little trimming/rebalancing of the crank, right? Old-school musclecar trick was to do that to some extent...unless it's already done on our crank. Haven't really seen ours up close. Great info for me, as I'm going N/A on mine in the future. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ya, the general consensus from both threads that I've posted on different boards is that its not worth the effort and money to do a N/A build up unless I will be stroking it or even using an alluminator block w/ high cr:cool:
 
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