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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Installed my SLP Line lock today, put the switch in the center console for a stealth look. Just gonna swap the switch for one with a cover so nothing accidently turns it on :X

Testing it out!



watch it in HD on the regular site if you want.
 

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Screw the line locks that car sounds badass....

Do the line locks work with ABS? I thought there where issues with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
works fine for me!
 

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I know my dad mentioned line locks but something about them not working with ABS. I cant remember if some kits dont work with it or not. As far as install its just a matter of tapping a solenoid and T fitting in right? Hows the switch in the center console holding up? Where exactly do you have it? I know some people run a push button switch on the shift lever or steering wheel but thats more of a drag car thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Its not going to be used alot besides at the track, so I didn't want a big button and hole in my center console (best place for ease of use). It's fine so far, only been a few hours haha.

It was an SLP line lock, all brake lines were pre bent, and it is just an in-line solenoid in between the master cylinder and the proportioning valve. Really simple, and pretty easy to install besides the annoyance of bleeding the brakes.
 

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There's no problem with the line lock if you use it properly. Notice I did not say install it properly, I infact meant use it properly.

Topics been covered, and this is one of those deals I researched deep into. So I'll refresh a little bit of it here.

A single solenoid linelock kit can cause ABS failure if you are not versed and don't understand what can cause the ABS failure. A dual linelock kit eliminates the potential because there's independent control by the two solenoid configuration.

The ABS cannot ever be back washed, it will end it's life right there on the spot and you will know it immediately. This is very easy to do with the single solenoid config, these are the two ways it happens:

You forget to pump up the pedal to load the line prior to engaging the line lock. The ABS blow out physically comes when the driver realizes the car rolls because the pedal wasn't loaded and then pumps the pedal while the line lock solenoid is holding pressure. You cant push pressure to the calipers through the solenoid while it's closed and so depressing the brake pedal you put pressure in the line up to the solenoid location and when you release the pedal, bam you get a violent backwash of the ABS because of sponging that long section of line up to the solenoid.

Second way:

Using the linelock as a staging mechanism. Some people really are old school jockey's and are very good at staging on the line lock and using it as a launch mechanism by loading the driveline in a stick car. I do this for launches of 2.5k or less on mild cars because it pulls slop from the drive line unlike the rev dump. If the car pushes on the line natural reaction for any human is to side step the brake. Again this loads to the solenoid and if the break is released prior to disengaging the linelock backwash and dead ABS.

The reason the two solenoid line lock doesn't cause the violent back wash is because the double solenoid config won't allow as much sponge developed line pressure upstream to be loaded into the line if a mistake is made.

I've destroyed an ABS personally in a friends car coming out of the water box and I knew better by research and still my natural human reaction when the tires pushed was to side step the brake pedal. No question it was done ABS light was up instantly and the 125 to 50 mph slow down was long at the big end. That's a 700.00 fix folks, just so you know.
 

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I believe the Granatelli kit is a dual solenoid system. I've had the SLP kit for several years now on my car with no problems. I did notice that the solenoid seems to act like a 1-way valve when activated. When I activate the solenoid, I can still push fluid through it but it will hold the pressure. I don't recommend doing this but it does work on mine.

Also, if you are going to race the car often and it's a stick, I had a pretty slick setup. Anybody who races a stick regularly has had the issue of bringing that RPM's up at the line only to have the car slowly roll forward and either cause a red light or a bad reaction time. I cured this by putting a button behind the clutch pedal. My linelock system had 3 buttons. A master to turn on 12v to it. A burnout button that I used during burnouts and the button behind the clutch pedal for staging. The burnout and staging switches just switched ground. Here is how it worked:

When rolling up to the burnout box I'd turn on the master switch. When I wanted to do the burnout, I'd push the brake pedal to the floor then turn on the burnout switch. When I was done with the burnout, I'd turn that switch off. Next, when the car was staged, I'd push the brake pedal in just enough to hold the car in place, push the clutch pedal in which causes the linelock to hold the car, bring the revs up and the linelocks would release when I released the clutch. Worked great. At the end f the run I'd turn the master off so I wouldn't accidentally set the linelocks.
 
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