Nice man, I use the same trio. let me know if you need any tips. 105 has a steep learning curve. Both 105 and 205 have very short working times... Both only take about 1-2 mins working time before you buff it off depending on your section size.
I myself and still learning a good technique with 105, as it dries so quickly.
I am guessing your gonna go with 105/yellow 205/orange PO 85RD/white? I really would not go with a yellow on 105 unless you have major swirling. 105/orange normally removes almost everything except the most stubborn swirls/scratchs. I had to do 2-3 passes on my hood with 105/yellow to remove swirls made by a rotary... so it was sever.
I think Im gonna hit the hood/roof/trunk with the 105/yellow and then hit the rest of the car with 105/orange. But I need to invest in some craftsman work lights. I decided to go with the this combo because of the results you got.
Also I take it I work at the same speeds for all the polishes as I did with the XMT line? And what kind of glaze did you use because I like the CG EZ~Creme Glaze but I'm not seeing the results I would like from it. But it smells great
That sounds like a good plan. Thoese three areas are the most abused spots for water spots and such. As for a glaze... if you polish correctly you dont really need a glaze. The Menzerna/gray pad will act as your glaze. Using it with a gray pad provides no cut. Its debatable weather it is worth the time/money since your not really correcrting anything, but it is suppose to help with the overall apperance.
Do not spread the 105 out like the XMT stuff, as it dries very fast. Simply spread it a tad bit and start on speed 6 right off the bat. Instead of following the 3'x3' rules I simply break the body panel up case by car. For examble I split the doors up by 4 sections and the hood by 6 sections (2 on each of the sides, one in front of the scoop, and one for the scoop).
You should be able to make about 4-5 passes with 105 before it start drying. If you feel you need more working time, spritz it with some water and do about 2-3 more passes, buff it off, and inspect. If it still have issues, hit it again. If you have issues removing it, spritz some IPA on it and buff it off.
Alright thanks man. I just I might throw some glaze on the roof and see if I can tell any difference, if I cannot then I wont worry about it at all. I am hoping to start Monday, if I have work off. Thanks for the help Zat.
NP man... TBH the glaze will not harm anything, so why not? When time is a constraint or you are charging someone hourly then its not really worth the time. However if time is not a factor, why not? I think when I do a one step before my car show I will throw my Poorboy's Black Hole Glaze on the car to cover anything I might have missed.
Also, you need to invest in some more pads. You always want atleast two of each pad at a min. For larger vehicles more of course. I usally can cover one side of the car with one pad if I clean it 1/2 way through. You never want to polish with a caked up pad. It would not be harmful to clean it with water and dry it after every panel to be safe.
I have 2 other orange pads and a white pad from my previous purchase. So in total I have 2-yellow 3-orange 2-white 1-gray 1-blue. Plan on buying a lot more whenever I get my wheels.
Time right now is not an issue, it is just trying to find the time. I would like to take the time to really work on the car. I still have A LOT of water etching on the car but it can only be seen in direct sunlight. I might hit the front bumper with menzerna and a white pad as well.
Check out this article Todd shows you how he applies the KBM method when using M105 and M205. He is one of the top ten professional detailers in all of the U.S. once you read his articles you will see why. I will be following the KBM when I finally get to doing my stang, as for me using my PO85RD ill be using the gray 5.5 inch pad. Just thought you might be interested in the article.