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Tuning Junkie
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

Im in a bad spot right now and need to see if anyone may know a trick to try or anything to help. I have my engine tore down in the car (2000 Mustang gt) front cover off, valve covers off. While i was turning the engine to TDC # 1, the end of the steel tool i had stuck down the spark plug hole broke off and i think its stuck on the top of the cylinder head. I didn't notice it broke until the motor stopped turning with my ratchet. Piston moves freely in the cylinder but stops at the top turning both directions. I'm going to try and look in there with a scope tomorrow but I kind of think i'm screwed. What a sob...

Can a person pull the heads off that car with out unbolting the motor mounts and lifting the motor up?

Thanks for looking.

Yes, I kind of know I'm pretty screwed here but any thoughts or ideas on fishing that piece of metal out of the cylinder with out taking the head off would be much appreciated.

---------- Post added at 06:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:28 PM ----------

I can see the pieces with a scope but they are stuck on top, beside the valve. 2 pieces. I blasted air through with the cylinder with the exhaust valve open and cannot get these pieces to budge.
 

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King Trashmouth
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21,891 Posts
Yes you can pull the cylinder head off without moving the engine. It's kind of a bitch on the driver's side, but possible. The trick to getting it in/out is using a piece of hose under the head bolts to stand them out far enough to keep from engaging with the block. You slit the hose on one side and stuff it under the bolt head like a spacer. Ford sells a kit, but the hose is the much much cheaper DIY option.

How big is the piece? You can probably scope it out, but that will take a pretty pricey camera. Some of the $70 ones might work, but they don't retrieve.

If it's a small steel piece and not wedged into the head, you might be able to fish it out with a magnet or a vacuum. Tape a hose small enough to fish into the bore to the vacuum and might work. Some shop vacs can just about such a golf ball through a garden hose.

If you do remove the head, remember you need new head gaskets and bolts. Make sure to line the cam gears up dot to dot. Time both banks/install chains at the same time to prevent one bank from being 180 deg out of time.
 

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Tuning Junkie
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks WickedSnake00, one piece is maybe 3/8' and the other slightly smaller. As I was turning the motor , not knowing this crap happened, I had some contact and i believe those pieces are stuck in the carbon garbage that is on my cylinder chamber. I was surprised blowing air through did nothing. sounded promising but nothin...

I still have the intake manifold installed. I'm going to take that off and see if I can open the intake valve and pick out those pieces from that angle.

I think my project just got bigger.... im still gonna try not to take the heads off and fix this.
 

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Moderator
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13,577 Posts
Before getting dramatic roll the piston ALL the way down so you can see what you are doing on top of the piston while removing the pieces. dont blow air into the cylinder if the intake or exhaust valve is open you may blow them pieces right up into the head on top of the valves.
 

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Tuning Junkie
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The cheap camera worked...

thanks everyone for your comments. I managed to fish out the 2 pieces with the magnet end of the harbor freight inspection camera/light/magnet. I'm a happy guy. I removed the intake and went in through the intake valve opening in the chamber. I thought I was going to have to take off that head.

On another note, is there a sticky for timing the 4.6 2 valve. Its my first time, timing an engine like this, and I wanted to try and find a few more sources of info for that. Ive installed cams in 302 push rod motors but never a modular. After this ordeal id really like piece of mind its right before i put the covers back on.

There are no bronze colored (or any marking) timing links on my timing chains ?? Thought there was supposed to be. The car runs far too good to be a tooth off. would it be foolish to mark my own timing links?

Thanks everyone, your help is very much appreciated.
 

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King Trashmouth
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21,891 Posts
Nah you can mark your own. That's what I did on mine. Just lay it flat so there's two long parallel sections, and then one link that's perpendicular on either end. Those are the ones to mark. I can't find a picture with it.

And then I'm sure you've seen plenty of material on the dot to dot alignment technique. Set the cams and crank at the prescribed orientations, put the marked links on the dots and you're good. Then degreeing is the same as a pushrod, but you have to do it twice, once for each bank.
 
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