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Discussion Starter #1
When I first got ahold of my Cobra, it was worlds better than my old v-6 Camaro, so I didnt know what a v-8 should feel like when I started driving my Mustang. Over the past month, I've gotten used to it enough to tell something isn't right. It starts skipping and breaking up enough to where it doesn't make power from 2200 RPM and up. The top end I've got it to was around 110 mph and it took miles to do it. I took it out to the deep country where theres a strip of highway about 5 miles straight and long and timed it using an app my Droid and this is the best I could get: 60':[email protected] 1/8th:[email protected] 1/4:[email protected] 0-60 was 16.527 seconds. Any thoughts? Thanks! :llama
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Our mechanic was the previous owner and he did a go-over before he sold it to us, but I'll do that tomorrow. The thing is, it has the power to burn the tires and pin you to the seat all the way up to 2200 in every gear besides 5th, but then its just kinda goes "blah" and slowly speeds up.
 

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yeah id do a full tune up. plugs, wires, cap and rotor, coil, pcv, fuel filter, oil change, timing. could be a mix of all of these or just one. but itd be better to do all. start with the cheapest first. plugs. make sure you runs coppers though cause platinums and iridiums are for newer cars and run at a different temp than ours. how many miles are on your stang?
 

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Just to be safe Id check the battery and alternator too. my 00 gt had a bad battery and the alternator was going and I lost power at the high rpms when accelerating.
 

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hmm..cats or muffs clogged? sounds like it has something to do with an old fuel filter, ignition(i.e. plugs, wires, cap and rotor, coil) or a clogged exhaust. cause the higher the rpm, the faster then fuel goes to the engine. but if the fuel filter is old, theres a lot of restriction in it from dirty fuel. the higher the rpm, the faster the spark. so perhaps the plugs or wires are fouling out or just cant keep up. check the timing too. the higher the rpm, the more air flows through the exhaust. so if thats clogged the engine is very restricted. the engine wont want more air coming in if theres not enough going out.
 

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02 sensors maf sensor can cause weird **** like this. o2 are expensive but if they are the original change them. maf, just clean it. run the f-ing codes. even though there no CEL (check engine light) a code will be stored in the computer. use the jumper wire technique. ont waste money on a ****ing scanner, its a waste. learn how to count the flashes, dont look away. do you the picture on how to use the jumper wire?
 

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cant believ no one has even said check codes besides me. wow
 

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but if the codes where just stored into the computer, wouldnt the cel still be on if there was still a problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The cel comes on at completely random times and stays on for differing amounts of time. Sometimes it comes on when I'm accelerating and then goes right off or stays on and sometimes it comes on when I've got it on cruise control on the highway.
 

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not always. i had bad o2's on my 95, never had a check engine light. finaly ran codes and popped up as 172 (bad left 02) replaced them and power came back, then car was a real freak once it was running wel. you said breaking up around 2200? check your coil, but better yet timing. def check the timing. Ill post a pic for you on how to run/check for codes. uno momento!
 

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ok i just read your last post man. def need to check th codes now. it has come on and will be stored. starts to sound like o2's and timing.
 

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bottom left little square is what you need to use . just a short wire to jump. walk back to the car, turn key to run, count flashes. you can also start the car and it will also reads codes to you. the computer will put the car through tests to test sensors and ****. try it out, koeo (key on engine off, koer key on engine running) thats the technical terms lol

btw dont use the **** under the dash. not the same--pre 96 was obd1 not obd2 so you can use a normal scanner. there are scanners that you can buy but why when this is free (jumper method) the diagnostic port is under the hood, passenger side near the firewall and the accumulator for the a/c (black bulgy cylinder object). it may have a cover on it since you car is still all stock and looks cared for.
 

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yeah you shouldve thrown that check engine light comment in your first post. haha. thats an issue for sure. but at least you'll know what it is.

and hmm i think ill pull some codes just for the hell of it then. thats kinda ****ed up that theres even a cel if the thing wont even come on sometimes haha.
 

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same thing happened to my 94 unplug the maf and see if it runs if it runs take it for a rip and it should be 100 times better but if it is you will need a new maf
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Its not the kind of power loss that I've experienced with the maf before, but you never know. Where it made the car lurch and shake, this power loss is just enough to where it doesn't make power, it just kinda sustains speed and then slowly builds it up.
 
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