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Discussion Starter #1
I tried searching and putting bits and pieces of info together but not much luck. I'm not interested in bringing my car to the track, Its my dd and I just want to be able to have fun on the street with it. I have a 2001 GT auto.

Mods I want to do this year(If I have the money):

Catted X-pipe
JLT Cai
SCT Tune
Accufab TB
Accufab Plenum
TB spacer

Slotted rotors
Brembo Pads
Eibach Springs



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That being said, what are the best mods, and cheapest way to get a 0-60 mid to low 4's on the street. Assuming It will hook.

I'm sure this question has been asked before so I apologize.

BTW before I would go FI I'd probably take the 5-7k and invest in a new car.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Get rid of the TB spacer, just dead weight. I would do some suspension work, lower and upper control arms, 3.73 or 4.10 gears, and a nice stall converter should help a lot, probably a good place to start.
I was thinking gears would be nice for one of my first mods, the only problem is I do drive to VA and back as of right now, usually once or twice a month, its 1k miles round trip. I didn't buy the car for mpg, buuut I just made the trip yesterday and averaged 21-23mpg doing 80mph, did have some stop and go traffic. 2400 rpm to 3000rpm at 80mph hurts the gas mileage how bad with 4.10? 2-3mpg?

Ive seen a lot of people avid on the 4.10 for an auto, is the difference between 3.73 and 4.10 that great?
 

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Nile P. Pezdel of Pez Dispenser Inc. CCA
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Not even. My average MPG, which I take meticulous care to always record and analyze at every fill up, went from 16.8 to 16.5. I use 4.10s. My driving style is consistent and is representative of a good mix of city and highway, with highway encompassing more total miles in a 3:1 ratio.

Easiest way to get a better 0-60 time is traction. Excellent tires, sfc, lca, panhard rod and 3.73s to avoid the extra shift. Done. Cai and a tune is probably all you'd need as far as power.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow had no idea it would effect it that little. I have no experience with it so Ive been going on what others have said. Appreciate the response.

I'd like to improve the sound of the car a well, part of the reason I wanted to add some of the other stuff. Id be happy around 350-380hp at the crank.
 

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Wow had no idea it would effect it that little. I have no experience with it so Ive been going on what others have said. Appreciate the response.

I'd like to improve the sound of the car a well, part of the reason I wanted to add some of the other stuff. Id be happy around 350-380hp at the crank.
If you dont want to go to forced induction, then cams are your best bet to get some decent numbers, or even go to nitrous.
 

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That's funny right there :funnah

The only way you'll see that with a NA car is with a 150 shot of nitrous!
Ummmm....what are you talking about?

heads, cams, supporting mods.....DONE

however still more cost efficient to do FI
 

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Ummmm....what are you talking about?

heads, cams, supporting mods.....DONE

however still more cost efficient to do FI
if you stroke a 4v you can make ~380 :D
 

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I wanna SPRAY!
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That's funny right there :funnah

The only way you'll see that with a NA car is with a 150 shot of nitrous!
Im pretty sure our cars can see 380+ horsepower at the crank.
 

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US Air Force (retired)
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That's funny right there :funnah

The only way you'll see that with a NA car is with a 150 shot of nitrous!
He said crank not wheels! 350 at the crank is about 298 at the wheels (manual transmission).

Yes and it can be done naturally aspirated. Myself and a couple of noted n/a advocates have argued this issue, several times. I'm on the side of forced induction. But, at that power bolt ons and maybe cams might be more cost effective.

P.S,: For my friends who think I may have slipped up, I said might. :) I may have listened a little bit to your arguments. Just a little. But I still like FI.
 

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Okay when I was reading this thread I thought the OP expected to get the 350-380 hp at the the crank with the mods he had listed in his post, and we all know those will not even come close.

I'm at about 350 at the crank, 302 rwhp, but that's with all the bolts ons and ported/polished heads, stage 3 cams, etc.

The best way to go NA is to get the TFS Track Heat 195 heads and TFS or Victor Jr intake manifold.
 

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That's funny right there :funnah

The only way you'll see that with a NA car is with a 150 shot of nitrous!
whats even funnier are dumb ass's who spout off the dick flappers before realized what they typed.

Go pound sand
 

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You wont know what to do with 300 to the tire OP. 3800 or so stall, 4.10's some good suspension, the sluegh of bolt ons and and a good tune and the car will snap your neck and have you smiling like a virgin on prom night
 

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yeah its also a 2v.

your gonna need cams with every bolt on possible and even then its a maybe.

otherwise you need heads and cams plus bolt ons
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I said CRANK not rwhp, and I said those were mods I was planning on doing, not the ones to get me to that point.

If it's going to cost me more than FI to get there I mine as well save the money and put it towards a new GT. thanks for all the replies guys
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You wont know what to do with 300 to the tire OP. 3800 or so stall, 4.10's some good suspension, the sluegh of bolt ons and and a good tune and the car will snap your neck and have you smiling like a virgin on prom night
exactly the feeling I want
 
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