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Discussion Starter #1
I have SVE springs on right now but i dont like the stance it really only lowered the front a llittle bit and the ass end still sits high, should i cut them or try with a dif. spring...
 

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Never cut springs, unless you want your car to handle like crap. Cutting springs is solely for looks. How much did your current springs lower your car? About an inch in the rear and 1.25" in the front is ideal. You don't want an excessive drop or it will cause all sorts of problems not only with handling but parts wearing out faster. A lot of people lower their cars too much, and then 6 months later complain about different issues they have because they ignored critical adjustments such as bump-steer kits, offset bushings, alignment, and aftermarket shocks/struts to compliment the springs. In all honesty, it will take at least $500 with you doing all the labor to lower your car properly, and minimizing negative side affects. Personally, I wouldn't lower my car unless I got aftermarket shocks/struts with lowering springs and caster camber plates just as a starting point. I'm not trying to be an asshole, just honest. There's a reason I still haven't lowered my car yet. It's gonna run me probably $750 just to get started and then another $600+ (subframe connectors, bump-steer kit, adjustable anti-roll bars) that I'll add as budget allows.
 

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I would change springs before cutting them. Cutting springs will possibly do the opposite and end up raising your ride height.
 

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I would change springs before cutting them. Cutting springs will possibly do the opposite and end up raising your ride height.
... What?

You can cut the springs and everything will be fine. Just don't go too low or you will run into alignment issues. If you lower you car then yes you will experience a little faster wear on you suspension parts.
 

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Zippy Zip Custom \/
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You could remove the isolaters, if you didn't, and get a fraction more of a drop.
 

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Raging Mad Motherfucker
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Remove your ISO's and wrap the ends in black electrical tape. I have the same springs and it dropped my car 1.9" on both ends when I did that.
 
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Never cut springs, unless you want your car to handle like crap. Cutting springs is solely for looks. How much did your current springs lower your car? About an inch in the rear and 1.25" in the front is ideal. You don't want an excessive drop or it will cause all sorts of problems not only with handling but parts wearing out faster. A lot of people lower their cars too much, and then 6 months later complain about different issues they have because they ignored critical adjustments such as bump-steer kits, offset bushings, alignment, and aftermarket shocks/struts to compliment the springs. In all honesty, it will take at least $500 with you doing all the labor to lower your car properly, and minimizing negative side affects. Personally, I wouldn't lower my car unless I got aftermarket shocks/struts with lowering springs and caster camber plates just as a starting point. I'm not trying to be an asshole, just honest. There's a reason I still haven't lowered my car yet. It's gonna run me probably $750 just to get started and then another $600+ (subframe connectors, bump-steer kit, adjustable anti-roll bars) that I'll add as budget allows.
You do not need a bumpsteer kit. I dropped my car quite a but and don't have a bumpsteer issue.
You do not need sub frame connectors when lowering a vehicle.
You don't really need adjustable swaybar links. Shorter links would be nice but not necessary.
You do not need offset steering rack bushings.
Only an idiot wouldn't get an alignment after changing their suspension setup.
If you only do a mild drop CC plates may not even be necessary.

I would change springs before cutting them. Cutting springs will possibly do the opposite and end up raising your ride height.
This is a joke right?





This place has been overrun with idiots
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Never cut springs, unless you want your car to handle like crap. Cutting springs is solely for looks. How much did your current springs lower your car? About an inch in the rear and 1.25" in the front is ideal. You don't want an excessive drop or it will cause all sorts of problems not only with handling but parts wearing out faster. A lot of people lower their cars too much, and then 6 months later complain about different issues they have because they ignored critical adjustments such as bump-steer kits, offset bushings, alignment, and aftermarket shocks/struts to compliment the springs. In all honesty, it will take at least $500 with you doing all the labor to lower your car properly, and minimizing negative side affects. Personally, I wouldn't lower my car unless I got aftermarket shocks/struts with lowering springs and caster camber plates just as a starting point. I'm not trying to be an asshole, just honest. There's a reason I still haven't lowered my car yet. It's gonna run me probably $750 just to get started and then another $600+ (subframe connectors, bump-steer kit, adjustable anti-roll bars) that I'll add as budget allows.
i see, i might just get dif. springs then and do a few other upgrades to suspention in the prosess
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You do not need a bumpsteer kit. I dropped my car quite a but and don't have a bumpsteer issue.
You do not need sub frame connectors when lowering a vehicle.
You don't really need adjustable swaybar links. Shorter links would be nice but not necessary.
You do not need offset steering rack bushings.
Only an idiot wouldn't get an alignment after changing their suspension setup.
If you only do a mild drop CC plates may not even be necessary.

i dont have CC plates yet but it reall didnt mess my camber by much and i did get an alignment lol :yes
 

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MOAR BOOST
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okay but what about the ends should i heat them up and bend it flush like it looks when you get them or.......?
to cut them? NO do not heat the spring. Cut it with a dremel with a cutoff wheel or an angle grinder.
You only cut the end that isn't flush with the rest of the spring. From what I remember on the fronts you cut the top of the spring and the rears you cut the bottom.
 

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to cut them? NO do not heat the spring. Cut it with a dremel with a cutoff wheel or an angle grinder.
You only cut the end that isn't flush with the rest of the spring. From what I remember on the fronts you cut the top of the spring and the rears you cut the bottom.
I think you cut the bottom on each. Also big +1 on not heating springs.


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to cut them? NO do not heat the spring. Cut it with a dremel with a cutoff wheel or an angle grinder.
You only cut the end that isn't flush with the rest of the spring. From what I remember on the fronts you cut the top of the spring and the rears you cut the bottom.
Pretty sure you have that backwards. I think the front you cut the bottom, but on the rear you cut the top.
 

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You do not need a bumpsteer kit. I dropped my car quite a but and don't have a bumpsteer issue.
You do not need sub frame connectors when lowering a vehicle.
You don't really need adjustable swaybar links. Shorter links would be nice but not necessary.
You do not need offset steering rack bushings.
Only an idiot wouldn't get an alignment after changing their suspension setup.
If you only do a mild drop CC plates may not even be necessary.

This place has been overrun with idiots
I think you and I are on different wavelengths V6kid. If you read my post more carefully you would see that I said $500+ just to get started, mean c/c plates, lowering springs, and shocks/struts should be the baseline for any lowering project. I guess I made the mistake of assuming that anyone interested in lowering their car was doing it for performance reasons first and aesthetics second. Yes you can cut springs to lower a car, but how's that going to make it handle better, the spring rates haven't changed at all. Of course you don't need to have subframe connectors or anti-roll bars to lower your car, I was using these as examples to show how I would build onto my original investment to further improve handling. As for off-set bushings and bumpsteer kits, you didn't specify but said you lowered your car quite a bit and don't need them. Well, I don't know what quite a bit is to you, but there's no arguing that off-set bushings are needed to correct suspension geometry for anything over a 1.25" drop in front. I'll try not to assume everyone's as big as a performance enthusiast as me in the future, but I used to have a car ('92 Celica) that I half-assed things on when I was younger. It doesn't pay, I learned some stuff that way, but things always break and good luck trying to resell a car that's been cheaply modified. So just to be clear:

1. Yes you can cut springs if aesthetics is your only goal.
2. If you want both a better handling car and lower stance, shocks/struts, lowering springs, and probably c/c plates should be your starting point.

:2cents I understand the temptation to want to jump right into a project and begin modifying, but you really have to choose wisely where you cut corners. There's a big difference between saving some money, and being foolish. Suspension isn't any place that I'd try to cut too many corners. Well planed projects (not necessarily well funded) always turn out the best. Hope this helps.
 

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MOAR BOOST
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Pretty sure you have that backwards. I think the front you cut the bottom, but on the rear you cut the top.
I don't remember...it has been awhile since I have done it.
Honestly if you take the springs out and look at them it will make sense. Don't cut the end that the spring's first coil is really close to the second coil.

Wow.... lots of experts here

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And this input was very insightful :rolleyes:
 

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I cut 1.5 coils off of the front stock spring and left the isos out, pushing 2+ inches. I wayyy needed CC plates to correct the alignment.... I wasn't trying to be rude if it came off that way.
 
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