Modded Mustang Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2005 V6 with stock suspension and I am looking to put on ONLY the rear roush springs before I put on my new 18in Razors. I was wondering what else I need to install to lower this car properly. I have heard that LCAs and an adj panhard bar are adviseable. Also since I have a V6, I have heard that I will need to get a rear sway bar. Also heard that the rear roush springs will wear out the stock shocks so shocks would be advisable? What about bushings. Any opinions/other suggestions for what I should do? I have heard from individual people on this subject but was just looking to hear others. Along with any suggestions, a place to buy it would be nice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
I would advise a full set of Roush springs or it'll look odd. I have Roush springs over Tokico D-spec shocks and it still sits higher at the back than Eibachs. LCAS are advisable but not essential because it's not like you're going to be struggling with the power ;) I don't have the adjustable PHB either because the wheels I have seem to sit fairly centrally anyway so I'd lower, fit the wheels and then see if you need one. Roush isn't a massive drop like some of the springs out there.

The V6 doesn't come with a sway bar (I think the Pony pack might but not sure) and it's always nice to have but it needs to be matched with a suitable front bar so you don't ened up with excess understeer or oversteer. For the V6, buying a pair of V8 cast-offs would be your cheapest bet (possibly paired with some poly bushings) although I don't know if you need additional brackets to fit the rear bar on the V6.

Roush springs won't wear out the stock shocks any more than they would normally but they're pogo-sticks compared to a good set of shocks. Tokico D-specs are great being adjustable so you can firm up the ride at will and are selling for $550 a set Steeda or LMPerformance's Mustang Parts, Camaro Parts, Corvette Parts, GTO Parts, Trans Am Parts and more.).

Aftermarket LCAs come with poly bushings which being harder take out the deflection inherent in the stock rubber bushes. Harder is always better for control but the ride will be a little harsher, a little noisier perhaps. I think BMR are a good quality manufacturer for reasonable prices.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I would advise a full set of Roush springs or it'll look odd. I have Roush springs over Tokico D-spec shocks and it still sits higher at the back than Eibachs. LCAS are advisable but not essential because it's not like you're going to be struggling with the power ;) I don't have the adjustable PHB either because the wheels I have seem to sit fairly centrally anyway so I'd lower, fit the wheels and then see if you need one. Roush isn't a massive drop like some of the springs out there.

The V6 doesn't come with a sway bar (I think the Pony pack might but not sure) and it's always nice to have but it needs to be matched with a suitable front bar so you don't ened up with excess understeer or oversteer. For the V6, buying a pair of V8 cast-offs would be your cheapest bet (possibly paired with some poly bushings) although I don't know if you need additional brackets to fit the rear bar on the V6.

Roush springs won't wear out the stock shocks any more than they would normally but they're pogo-sticks compared to a good set of shocks. Tokico D-specs are great being adjustable so you can firm up the ride at will and are selling for $550 a set Steeda or LMPerformance's Mustang Parts, Camaro Parts, Corvette Parts, GTO Parts, Trans Am Parts and more.).

Aftermarket LCAs come with poly bushings which being harder take out the deflection inherent in the stock rubber bushes. Harder is always better for control but the ride will be a little harsher, a little noisier perhaps. I think BMR are a good quality manufacturer for reasonable prices.
Yea I was planning on getting this take off for the rear: Mustang GT Coupe<br>Rear Anti-Sway Bar 2005-2008 - FR3-16055-05AA
Front:
Mustang GT Front Anti-Sway<br>Bar 2005-2008 (Each) - FR3-16050-05AA

I was definitely going to get the alignment checked out before I went and bought an adj panhard bar. Another thing someone suggested I get is poly bushings for the sway bars. Do they help that much?
 

·
Bob The Mo'fukkin Builda!
Joined
·
10,234 Posts
you shouldn't lower the rear without lowering the front along with it. it will not look right nor will it handle right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I have seen pics and it looks great it evens out the car. I don't want to lower the front because I already have enough trouble tearing off the front fascia.
 

·
Bob The Mo'fukkin Builda!
Joined
·
10,234 Posts
i've lowered mine with the eibach pro kit and i have no problem with the front. sometimes i have to go slow or go over major dips or into parking lots at an angle, but usually i don't ever scrape the front. if i do scrape it is the midpipe on a speed bump and that is usually because i am going to fast over it. i guess it is all about your personal preference, but the front is supposed to be lower than the back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,676 Posts
I have seen pics and it looks great it evens out the car. I don't want to lower the front because I already have enough trouble tearing off the front fascia.

Most kits take into consideration that our rear is slightly higher then our front... I know the Eibach sportlines their front end drop is 1.6 while there rear is 2.0....

BMR kit FTW never heard anything bad about it...
 

·
The Despised Vert
Joined
·
3,557 Posts
it the front is level of higher than the back I would be very cautious at high speeds
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
When I say you need matched sway bars, the front sway bar of the V6 is 28.6mm tubular. The V8 is a 34mm bar with a 22mm rear bar. This is how they work:
How sway bars work

Poly bushings simply take the "give" out of the equation. Rubber is a comfy material that allows the car to squirm a little more. Poly is more a solid link so you feeel every bump. I still have stock sway bars on mine with stock bushings but mainly because the car is pretty supple the way I have it set up and on UK roads, too hard is not always good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
When I say you need matched sway bars, the front sway bar of the V6 is 28.6mm tubular. The V8 is a 34mm bar with a 22mm rear bar. This is how they work:
How sway bars work

Poly bushings simply take the "give" out of the equation. Rubber is a comfy material that allows the car to squirm a little more. Poly is more a solid link so you feeel every bump. I still have stock sway bars on mine with stock bushings but mainly because the car is pretty supple the way I have it set up and on UK roads, too hard is not always good.
Yea I know what you meant in the post I respond those front and rear sway bars are GT takeoffs. Okay then maybe the bushings might not be a great idea because I don't drive on the best of maintained roads.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top