What little tech I do know, you will want the Adjustable Panhard bar to keep the rear centered.
lowering?
im not very smart when it comes to suspension. i really want to lower my car to give it a better look. but i have a question. would it be ok if i just did the eibach lowering springs and nothing else. or in order for everthing to work properly do i have to buy other suspension type parts?
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ya the adj panhard rod is always a good idea. when i did my suspension i was most worried about my camber being way off, but i didn't lower mine too low so camber wasn't really an issue when i got it all bolted up.
also ive heard that when you put one aftermarket lowering springs with the stock shocks, depending on how low it is you can put a ton of pressure on the shock and they can actuly bend or break, i would go with buying some shocks along with the springs as well
You will be fine with nothing else, but i would recommend at least an adj. panhard bar. Now depending on what springs you go with (pro kit or sportlines) you may want to consider some type of camber adjustment for the front. I have h&r supersports (theyre probably the lowest spring out there for our cars-about a 2.25" drop on mine) on mine with just an adj. panhard and its fine but i do have some wicked camber up front, i need to get camber plates soon. Thats just my .02, hope that helps
-Will
-Will
If you're going to lower the car at the bare minimum you're going to need springs, an adj. panhard bar to center the rear differential, and an alignment. It would be wise to get camber bolts to get more camber, adj. UCA to correct pinon angle, LCAs to stop wheel hop, shocks & struts to ride and handle better. With a mild drop like the Steeda or Eibach Pro-Kit springs it will align just within the factory tolerances for camber. Factory spec allows for up to -1.5 degrees of camber and it should be about -1.3-1.5 degrees. Running this much camber is great for handling. It's not too bad for the tires, either. Although I'd kind of prefer about -.7 degrees of camber for a street car. Hope this helps you.
I'm running the Tokico D-Specs, Steeda Sport springs, camber bolts, Steeda Sway Bars (Although, I just removed the front sway bar for drag racing), BMR Billet LCAs with BMR Relocation Brackets (Welded), Steeda Adj. UCA, BMR Adj. Panhard Bar and BMR Brace. I really like my set-up and think it handles and rides great. However for drag racing there was little to no weight transfer. Once I removed the front sway bar, it made a huge difference in weight transfer. It handles differently and you're not going to want to hit corners hard but it's definitely streetable.
I'm running the Tokico D-Specs, Steeda Sport springs, camber bolts, Steeda Sway Bars (Although, I just removed the front sway bar for drag racing), BMR Billet LCAs with BMR Relocation Brackets (Welded), Steeda Adj. UCA, BMR Adj. Panhard Bar and BMR Brace. I really like my set-up and think it handles and rides great. However for drag racing there was little to no weight transfer. Once I removed the front sway bar, it made a huge difference in weight transfer. It handles differently and you're not going to want to hit corners hard but it's definitely streetable.
No, the springs aren't going to break the struts & shocks. The springs are going to be a stiffer spring rate so it will cause the stock strut & shocks to fail early. It's a good idea to upgrade the struts & shocks at the same time though.also ive heard that when you put one aftermarket lowering springs with the stock shocks, depending on how low it is you can put a ton of pressure on the shock and they can actuly bend or break, i would go with buying some shocks along with the springs as well
I ran my sportline springs with steeda camber adjusters for a year before I started upgrading everything else. You will be fine but eventually you will want to do what NastyStang stated.
I bought my car lowered with the pro kit.. done at the dealership the guy worked at... no panhard and no camber plates but the rear was fine and I never had any issues with wheel hop. I drag race more than most.. I think you will be fine just putting the springs on and if something else needs to be done then it is just as easy to do it later once you know all you need.. if you have the $$ to do the lower and upper CA's the Panhard and the camber plates then by all means knock yourself out but you will be fine w/o some or all of these, at least till your car tells you what it wants for the way you drive it.. I may get flamed for this but there really isn't any set-in-stone setup for running lowered.
Happy New Year!!!
Happy New Year!!!
I am almost done with my suspension and it has been done piece by piece. I will list the order in which I think works pretty good, at least it has for me. You don't have to do all of the things listed and can stop modding anywhere as far down the list as you want to fine tune your suspension.
Springs
Adj. panhard bar
Camber bolts/plates, however you decide to adjust camber if you need to.
Struts & shocks
LCA's, with brackets if you need them.
Adj. UCA
Strut tower brace
Front and rear sway bars
Adj. front sway bar endlinks
Bump steer kit
K-member and A-arms
That is my plan and I just ordered my BMR sway bars so there are only a couple things left before I think I am done. I might be done after the bump steer kit 'cause there are many things I want to do before the K-member gets done.
So follow the order of this list as far down as you want and you should be good brother..
Springs
Adj. panhard bar
Camber bolts/plates, however you decide to adjust camber if you need to.
Struts & shocks
LCA's, with brackets if you need them.
Adj. UCA
Strut tower brace
Front and rear sway bars
Adj. front sway bar endlinks
Bump steer kit
K-member and A-arms
That is my plan and I just ordered my BMR sway bars so there are only a couple things left before I think I am done. I might be done after the bump steer kit 'cause there are many things I want to do before the K-member gets done.
So follow the order of this list as far down as you want and you should be good brother..
My back tires wouldn't tuck the fenders without the adj. panhard bar and lowering springs.I bought my car lowered with the pro kit.. done at the dealership the guy worked at... no panhard and no camber plates but the rear was fine and I never had any issues with wheel hop. I drag race more than most.. I think you will be fine just putting the springs on and if something else needs to be done then it is just as easy to do it later once you know all you need.. if you have the $$ to do the lower and upper CA's the Panhard and the camber plates then by all means knock yourself out but you will be fine w/o some or all of these, at least till your car tells you what it wants for the way you drive it.. I may get flamed for this but there really isn't any set-in-stone setup for running lowered.
The cheapest thing to do is lower just the rear only 1''. Roush sells just rear springs and it will level the car out and the rear will only be off center with the body about 3/8''-1/2'' max. In that case a panhard bar can be installed later. I think these cars look very nice like this.
Seriously though,is there any benefit with just lowerig the rear?
Yes, it levels the car out without altering the front suspension geometry. I had Steeda sport springs on the front and rear and recently reinstalled the stock springs up front. Of course, I have the added weight of the Whipple kit, but it looks great. My son has the same set up with a Procharger. The cars just look level now. I know a lot of people end up with tires that are shorter than stock which may not work, but my tires are a bit over 27'' tall.
This is a route a lot of people have been taking recently. It really helps out when you have an aftermarket front fascia or chin spoiler that has the front end lower than stock too.
This is a route a lot of people have been taking recently. It really helps out when you have an aftermarket front fascia or chin spoiler that has the front end lower than stock too.
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