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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How can I tell if I have a Mach 460 system? Doors have seperate tweeters in the pillar and speakers in the door themselves. In the back i can see the amps under the rear panel from he trunk. (its a coupe). The delaers says its a '"factory subwoofer system" but not a Mach 460. The front pillar tweeters do say "Mach" on them.

Any ideas how to ID the system?
 

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I believe after a certain year Ford dropped 460 from the name. I believe as long as it says mach on the tweeters and package tray speakers its a 460. Can you post a pic of the head unit? The mach and standard audio head units were slightly different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the system works fine but i want to add an aftermarket navigation head unit and a amp and subs... How did you guys wire in your subs with the 460 system? Seems like a challenge...
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Well look what the cat dragged in!
You missed me don't lie

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---------- Post added at 11:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:01 PM ----------

the system works fine but i want to add an aftermarket navigation head unit and a amp and subs... How did you guys wire in your subs with the 460 system? Seems like a challenge...
You're better off ripping it all out. The speakers run at funky ohms. I'm talking like 6 ohm speakers. It's no fun sounds wonky. I use my phone for gps as I like live updates on traffic so I went with a 7" pioneer indash. I ripped out the mach 460 amps because of the stupid ohm thing and ran all new speaker wire, power wire, speakers, amps, a sub, and sound deadened everything while I was in there. The entire car (doors, trunk, under rear seats, under main seats) all got deadened. The sound is now harmonic and 10x better. Sounds like a sound hall in my car which is no easy feat in a vert. I didn't go top of the line but I didn't go cheap either. It wasn't cheap and it was time consuming but worth it to me. Music and cruising go hand in hand.

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the system works fine but i want to add an aftermarket navigation head unit and a amp and subs... How did you guys wire in your subs with the 460 system? Seems like a challenge...
I still have the stock system so I cant help you there. There used to be a kit to add a sub to the stock system but its long since discontinued. Otherwise there is no easy way of wiring in a sub. I hate to say it but youre better off replacing everything.

Well look what the cat dragged in!
You missed me don't lie

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Ya got me bro.

No more Florida boys on here anymore. 44 cents came back temporarily but disappeared again. Oh and Zip stopped in a little while back too.
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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You missed me don't lie

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---------- Post added at 11:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:01 PM ----------

You're better off ripping it all out. The speakers run at funky ohms. I'm talking like 6 ohm speakers. It's no fun sounds wonky. I use my phone for gps as I like live updates on traffic so I went with a 7" pioneer indash. I ripped out the mach 460 amps because of the stupid ohm thing and ran all new speaker wire, power wire, speakers, amps, a sub, and sound deadened everything while I was in there. The entire car (doors, trunk, under rear seats, under main seats) all got deadened. The sound is now harmonic and 10x better. Sounds like a sound hall in my car which is no easy feat in a vert. I didn't go top of the line but I didn't go cheap either. It wasn't cheap and it was time consuming but worth it to me. Music and cruising go hand in hand.

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My head unit. I didn't go 6" as it looks cheap. Did 7 to fill out the entire gap. While I was in there I converted the cig lighter to a dual usb charger port and added an extension to run usb files to the head unit


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I prefer the stock look. Audio Sound is so low on my priority list. I can barely hear it as it is ;)

OP, you have a 460 system it sounds like.
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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I prefer the stock look. Audio Sound is so low on my priority list. I can barely hear it as it is ;)

OP, you have a 460 system it sounds like.
Hey we all have our things. Just nothing like cranking good music while cruising in Florida. It's quite blissful to say the least. I don't have bass to hear from miles but a single 10. Just enough.

I completely redid my interior to restore it but also add modern touches. The head unit I replaced out of necessity. 2 speakers blew and it didn't sound all too great anyways to begin with by modern standards imo

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You missed me don't lie

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---------- Post added at 11:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:01 PM ----------

You're better off ripping it all out. The speakers run at funky ohms. I'm talking like 6 ohm speakers. It's no fun sounds wonky. I use my phone for gps as I like live updates on traffic so I went with a 7" pioneer indash. I ripped out the mach 460 amps because of the stupid ohm thing and ran all new speaker wire, power wire, speakers, amps, a sub, and sound deadened everything while I was in there. The entire car (doors, trunk, under rear seats, under main seats) all got deadened. The sound is now harmonic and 10x better. Sounds like a sound hall in my car which is no easy feat in a vert. I didn't go top of the line but I didn't go cheap either. It wasn't cheap and it was time consuming but worth it to me. Music and cruising go hand in hand.

Sent from my SM-G920T1 using Tapatalk
How did you run it? Head unit to a aftermarket 6X8 in the door and disconnected the tweeters and same to the rear 6X8's? At least in the front can you use the door speaker wires that are in there from the factory or did you have to run wires under the dash thru the door etc?
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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How did you run it? Head unit to a aftermarket 6X8 in the door and disconnected the tweeters and same to the rear 6X8's? At least in the front can you use the door speaker wires that are in there from the factory or did you have to run wires under the dash thru the door etc?
So I ran all new speaker wire through the whole car. Ran two sets from rcas to the trunk. One for the highs and mid amp and one to the sub amp. From the four channel amp I ran dedicated wire to each speaker.

I run components in the front. Door has a conversion plate to turn the 6x8 plate to a 6.5 hole. The mid speaker was mounted there. Powering the mid speaker and tweeters I have a crossover that came with the kit to split the signals. Tweeters were replaced to aftermarket as well. This is the best way i found to run all aftermarket speakers.

Nvx 6.5 component set in the front
Rears have kicked 3 ways
Rockford prime 400.4 amp for the highs
Belva 1100.1 for the sub
Sub is a alpine type R 10 in a ported box. 1.1cuft tuned to 32 or 34 Hz

Headlights would dim on bass hits. Did the big 3 upgrade using 4ga wire to fix this.

Always use quality rcas. I used Rockford
Always use quality power and ground wire
Ground everything properly or you'll get feedback in the speakers.

The doors I deadened good to prevent rattle from the mid speaker.

Trunk and lid has double deadened as well

Rest of car like floor is single deadened

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---------- Post added at 08:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:21 AM ----------

So I ran all new speaker wire through the whole car. Ran two sets from rcas to the trunk. One for the highs and mid amp and one to the sub amp. From the four channel amp I ran dedicated wire to each speaker.

I run components in the front. Door has a conversion plate to turn the 6x8 plate to a 6.5 hole. The mid speaker was mounted there. Powering the mid speaker and tweeters I have a crossover that came with the kit to split the signals. Tweeters were replaced to aftermarket as well. This is the best way i found to run all aftermarket speakers.

Nvx 6.5 component set in the front
Rears have kicked 3 ways
Rockford prime 400.4 amp for the highs
Belva 1100.1 for the sub
Sub is a alpine type R 10 in a ported box. 1.1cuft tuned to 32 or 34 Hz

Headlights would dim on bass hits. Did the big 3 upgrade using 4ga wire to fix this.

Always use quality rcas. I used Rockford
Always use quality power and ground wire
Ground everything properly or you'll get feedback in the speakers.

The doors I deadened good to prevent rattle from the mid speaker.

Trunk and lid has double deadened as well

Rest of car like floor is single deadened

Sent from my SM-G920T1 using Tapatalk
Also you can run just factory location speakers in the door but it doesn't sound the same. Speakers are firing at right knees versus stock location on the pillars. Just sounded not as crisp

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I bought an aftermarket deck and had it installed professionally. I'm sure I could have done it myself but I didn't want to deal with the ohm crap. I installed a sub myself and it's all working fine.

I would love to, and I'm planning to redo the entire audio system with sound deadening just like TheOdessa did at some point because speaker technology has advanced so much since this system and it's not as crisp and bright as I want it to be. Redo the entire system if you have the money otherwise an aftermarket deck will be just fine - difficult maybe, but just fine.
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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I bought an aftermarket deck and had it installed professionally. I'm sure I could have done it myself but I didn't want to deal with the ohm crap. I installed a sub myself and it's all working fine.

I would love to, and I'm planning to redo the entire audio system with sound deadening just like TheOdessa did at some point because speaker technology has advanced so much since this system and it's not as crisp and bright as I want it to be. Redo the entire system if you have the money otherwise an aftermarket deck will be just fine - difficult maybe, but just fine.
You're short changing yourself being of the Mach system running a 6OHMS and the deck probably putting out optimal power at 2 or 4. It will work - but the key is to match everything. Basically most aftermarket decks and amps put out optimal power at 2 or 4 ohms. 6ohms will work but not sound the best.

Anyway Im an audiophile and wanted the best. Over time I built it up. I've learned in life to now always go cheap because you pay more in the end.
 
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