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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Some of you may remember that I had a vibration that I could hear at about 85, then feel at about 90 and it'd get worse with speed above that. Well, I had a long talk about it with the service manager of Victor Ford, and he suggested looking into the driveshaft possibly being out of balance.

Following that suggestion, I took the car today to Suburban Driveline, which is the place to go for anything driveshaft/rearend related. The owner put it on a drive-on rack and checked everything over, and it was pretty obvious that the pinion angle was ****ed up. The front shaft was angled down, as it should be, then the rear shaft was angled up (positive pinion angle). He was extremely condidant that that was my vibration, and obviously it was caused by the drop.

From the factory, there are two spacers above the carrier bearing that Ford used to set the angle at stock trim height. He removed those spacers and bolted the bearing straight to the body, which drastically improved the angle. After that he told me that the best way to make it any better would be to convert to a one piece shaft, and that it'd also be stronger, lighter, and probably smoother. He gave me a price on having him build me a chromoly shaft with a standard u-joint in the rear, and it was way cheaper than the mailorder aluminum shafts. He'd convert the pinion flange to a standard flange, and build it with tube that has absolutely no runout, zero balance it, and stuff it with insulation to absorb any harmonics if I wanted. (yes aluminum is lighter, but chromoly is stronger and would still be a lot lighter than stock, at a much lower price). he suggested that I try it with the new angles first, and see what happens, then if it is still bad maybe look into a new shaft.

So I drove it, and it is WAY better. I can still kinda hear it above 90, but took it to 100 and didn't really feel it at all. I have to get a feel for it for a while before I can say for sure, but I think it is much much better. I went back and talked to him about it again, and he said that given the new angles looking pretty good, and the fact that it is much better, that if it doesn't bother me it shouldn't be bad enough to hurt anything so I should be fine now. So I think I'll call it good, and maybe next year when I have more money look into a one piece conversion.

So there are two morals to this story: 1. Suburban Driveline is awesome. Hell, they even re-balanced Emay's Spydershaft, so that's worth something! 2. Removing those spacers might be a cheaper way to correct driveline angle issues after lowering a car.

I did notice my 2000 mile pinion seal starting to leak. Guess I'll have to find a way to get ahold of Ford Racing to demand that they send me a new one.
 

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Awesome, right around the corner. Definitely believe the cromoly vs. aluminum. Aluminum is cheaper to work with but in order to make it as strong as steel it has to have significantly thicker walls. Which is why all the aluminum bicycles have big tubing vs. traditional high quality steel bikes with small and light weight tubing. Also cromoly is significantly better at dampening vibration than aluminum....

Thanks for the information, glad you were able to mostly resolve your issue!
 

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Nice, glad your working it out. I've got an issue that I have to look into, I've just been lazy and it's still way to hot in my garage to work for too long. I never checked my pinion angle when I put my new shaft in and I have a vibration. It only vibrates at speeds that I usually don't drive. In fact I have only felt the vibration 3 times since the install, all at over 120 MPH. If it's not the angle I will have to start clocking the shaft along with the adaptor plate to see if I can smooth it out.

I almost had a custom one made for me but ran across a group buy for mine. It would be nice to have one with regular U-joints. These flanges and adaptor plates trip me out a bit. Anyways, don't worry about the extra weight of the chrome moly over the aluminum, it may actually benefit you in a way. With more mass you will have a higher critical speed, or speed at which harmonics/vibrations come into play. Why am I explaining this to you, you're ASE certified?
 

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how much did he charge you for the driveshaft?
 

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I'll have to check out my pinion angle, I never did that after the drop either. Good info on removing the spacers too. Next slow day I may pull it on my lift and play around with that. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah I would probably feel more comfortable with cromoly anyway. I'm sure a 3.5 inch chromoly shaft is still half the weight of that factory one. Isn't the stocker like 60+ pounds? I'll probably have him make me one next year. I'm out of funds this year. Another benefit is that if I had him make one and had any issues, he's right there, as opposed to dealing with someone over the phone or web.

His reason for not wanting to use aluminum is because the shaft is flanged at both ends, so it has to have a slip spline built into the shaft (as opposed to the trans yoke), which has to be made of steel. He isn't comfortable welding steel and aluminum together (understandable) so he says that a chromoly shaft would be better. That goes along with the other reasons stated above. This guy is well known in this area and others for his expertise, so I can believe what he says. Makes me wonder how the spydershaft and orther such shafts do it though.

Like I said though, someday I'll get a new shaft. But for now I'm happy with mine being better.

PS: Is there really a noticible performance difference from the one piece boss?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No problem Mike. Glad I can contribute something useful from all of my tibulations with this car haha. It was pretty obvious that it was off without even using an angle finder too.

Ian, I didn't get a new shaft. Read the whole post it says that fixing the angle solved the problem, and I'll get a shaft next year.
 

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No problem Mike. Glad I can contribute something useful from all of my tibulations with this car haha. It was pretty obvious that it was off without even using an angle finder too.

Ian, I didn't get a new shaft. Read the whole post it says that fixing the angle solved the problem, and I'll get a shaft next year.
Well if the guy will make you a cheap shaft i may want to buy one at the same time you do and then maybe we could both have cheap shafts :).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
so you wanna get shafted with me eh?

Well if anything it won't be untill next year. We don't have much time left before the car is parked for winter anyway. When the time comes though if you are still interested I can see if maybe he will make two and I can send you one or something. We'll see when the time comes.
 

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by that time i should have my job back or ill still be a full time student.
 

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PS: Is there really a noticible performance difference from the one piece boss?
If you mean is my car faster? No Clue. Does it feel faster? I would like to think so, but to be honest I don't think I notice much there. As far as my driveline clunking all the time, It has made a huge difference. I have an automatic so everytime you shifted it went clunk-clunk. Now when you shift into drive all you do is feel the rear kinda raise up a bit and RPM's drop.
 

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well thats good
 

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If you mean is my car faster? No Clue. Does it feel faster? I would like to think so, but to be honest I don't think I notice much there. As far as my driveline clunking all the time, It has made a huge difference. I have an automatic so everytime you shifted it went clunk-clunk. Now when you shift into drive all you do is feel the rear kinda raise up a bit and RPM's drop.
Interesting, I thought that was my UCA talking to me....

Looks like I'll be making a pilgramage to Villa Park and New Lennox before the snow falls this year. :D
 
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