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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

New to this and trying to add some power to my 95gt with basic bolt-ons. Been reading tons of forums regarding larger maf/tb/injectors, but none seem to have them all together. Trying to learn about this stuff and what will work best together...meaning size of MAF/TB/Injectors? Also, with upgrading the MAF/Injectors/TB will I have to do anything with the computer, or just simply bolt them on and roll?? Oh yeah, in case it matters I have a CAI, off road x-pipe w/flowmaster w/o cats, and 3.73's. Pretty much stock. All the info. and advice is MUCH appreciated. Thanks all
 

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If you still have stock heads, then upgrading your MAF, injectors, and TB will do nothing for you but relieve you of some money. No power gain to be had from those parts with stock heads and intake that will warrant the money spent.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Oh wow. Thanks for the heads up. So with the stock heads and intake (although plan on upgrading my intake very soon) what then can I do to gain some easy power with some simple bolt ons? Thanks again fogged!
 

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I'm not entirely sure how the SN-95 cars respond to advancing the timing, but on a stock fox, you can pick up a few HP by going up to around 14* and using premium. Dollar for dollar, the best mod you can do for a stock fox/SN that you will feel is going to be gears. Really depends on what you're looking out of the car, but 4.10's are always a good choice. It will decrease your highway mileage but you'll pick up a good bit of acceleration. Other than that, You can do little things like pulleys ect.. but none of the bolt on's will give you a whole lot more power. If you want to make power, the stock heads need to go. Like I said, depends on how far you want to take it, and what your budget is.
 

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Oh yeah, in case it matters I have a CAI, off road x-pipe w/flowmaster w/o cats, and 3.73's. Pretty much stock. All the info. and advice is MUCH appreciated. Thanks all
If you're not ready to upgrade the heads/cam/intake yet, you'd do well to replace those restrictive stock headers with a nice pair of free-flowing long tube versions.
You can upgrade the MAF and TB later on when you upgrade the intake manifold. You might wanna think about upgrading the fuel pump to a 255lph unit pretty soon.
 

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This is what I've heard and been told by many guys who build and race cars for a living. Most guys will agree with this info also.

Stock 19# injectors can handle a little over 300hp at the crank at around 90% cycle. That means they're close to their peak if you car is putting down a little over 280rwhp but their still doing their job. I still use 19#injectors on my car. It put down 280 rwhp so that's around 310hp at the crank.

Your TB size should match the opening size in the intake for a smooth flow. So when you get a new intake get yourself a TB with the same size opening. Example= my BBK intake has a 70mm opening so I purchased a BBK 70mm TB for it.

The MAF should be 10mm or larger then the TB with the correct meter matching to the injectors. Example= if you use an 70mm TB and 19# injectors, you should be using an 80mm or bigger MAF with a meter calibrated for 19# injectors.

 

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I wonder why ford uses 24lbs injectors on both 95 cobra(240hp)and 4.6 lincoln mkviii (280hp) both rated @crank. would'nt it be better(plus allow room for upgrades) to have larger injectors loafing instead of smaller ones working hard? not debating just curious.
 

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Cobra has better flowing heads and intake than a regular mustang. Not sure about the lincoln because I don't know anything about them or modulars, but if it's 280 at the crank, then it's a lot better engine in stock form than an E7 headed 5 liter.
 

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long tube headers, under drive pulleys, electric fan, smog delete, ac delete (if your like me and dont give a **** about luxuries lol), advance timing to 14-16*, and change all fluids (oil, gears, tranny, everything.. fresh fluids) will free up some ponies
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks all for the great advice and information. After taking it all in, I'm gonna spend my money elsewhere and looking into now picking up a GT40p upper and lower intake....with matching heads after that. Can get a great deal on the intake right now locally. So now more questions....sorry, but want to make sure I get it right...its my first rodeo, so dont want to mess it up. What would be the best cam for this set-up? Also, I plan on porting the intake, but how much do you port it? Also, will this intake fit under my hood without any modifications?? One final one...if I can pick up some gt40p heads what should I have done to them.....let me rephrase that...WHAT DO I ABSOLUTELY Need done to them? at this point ill be real strapped for cash. Again guys, thanks a ton for everything!
 

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This is what I've heard and been told by many guys who build and race cars for a living. Most guys will agree with this info also.

Stock 19# injectors can handle a little over 300hp at the crank at around 90% cycle. That means they're close to their peak if you car is putting down a little over 280rwhp but their still doing their job. I still use 19#injectors on my car. It put down 280 rwhp so that's around 310hp at the crank.

Your TB size should match the opening size in the intake for a smooth flow. So when you get a new intake get yourself a TB with the same size opening. Example= my BBK intake has a 70mm opening so I purchased a BBK 70mm TB for it.

The MAF should be 10mm or larger then the TB with the correct meter matching to the injectors. Example= if you use an 70mm TB and 19# injectors, you should be using an 80mm or bigger MAF with a meter calibrated for 19# injectors.
Sorry bro, i have to disagree a little , not trying to step on any toes but ^

But to the OP
I do agree getting a TB that matches the size of the intake throat, a lot of intakes come with a 65-70mm opening but can be ported out larger, so do your research to figure out how big that intake can be ported, and if your willing to do the porting and then you can go larger on your TB.

As for your maff sensor, all it has to be is the same size is your TB, but it will not hurt you to go larger. The great thing about going as big as possible on your maff sensor is......Later on down the line if you go bigger on your TB you dont have to change your maff sensor to..... FOR EXAMPLE... sets say you buy a 70mm TB and a 70mm maff sensor, Okay.....Then a year down the road you decide to put a 75mm TB on, well now your old 70mm maff is restriction air to your 75mm TB. But if you buy a 80mm maff sensor and a 70mm TB then when you upgrade the size of the TB to a 75mm your old maff will still work well with your combo....Its all about saving money and not buying the same parts twice.

maff always need to be calibrated to your injectors and until you hit a certain horse power just stick with your stock 19lb injectors, but when you hit some where around 270-280 HP Id just through on 24lb injectors, They cheap as hell on ebay and came on so many cars that you can find them every where. Meaning if your getting close to 300hp id ditch those 19lb, you dont want to run lean. 19lb have been known to work to a little over 300hp but i hate to max any thing out, putting them in jeopardy of failing, especially since 24lb are dirt cheap. But again if and when you change your injectors you will need to get a maff calibrated for them OR you will have to have the car computer calibrated for the injectors, but I'm sure thats going to cost more

just my two sents
 

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I hear ya man. Like I said it's things I've heard. Myself I stick to what works. My combo makes nice hp for what I do with the car. I can always use more like anyone else but I'm in no hurry. For me having an engine that can take the abuse I throw at it and keep running cool and strong is all I need. I still use my stock MAF only I modified it by cutting out the center section and smoothing everything out. Looks just like one of those pricey C&L units. I figured this mod opened it up quite a bit and allows for more air to enter to supply the larger intake and better heads I have. And of coarse I did have my car tuned after with these mods and everything worked great. Since my mod worked and the car is running great the way it is I left it alone. Sooner or later I'll have to go ahead and spend the extra money for a new MAF and 24# injectors if I want extra power but only if I get better heads. Like they say, If it ain't broke dont fixit.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Even though I'm new to this site, I can say I love it already. Thanks guys for all the feedback. Its been so helpful hearing personal responses to my own questions...cause Im sure you all know that you can read all different versions of potential answers to your questions until you go cross eyed, but this wasnt that case here. Ill keep you all updated...both with my progress and Im sure more questions. Lol! Until then, feel free to continue dropping lines if u care to share more knowledge, and for those who live in the north, its time to break our stangs out!
 

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I swapped my 19s to 24s [3-penal output holes-better spray/atomization] when I installed my 70mm Throttle Body, GT-40P Intake, and bored the Inlet/Elbow to match T/B. Also still running stock 70mm MAF with plans for swapping it out for an 80mm C&L and re-calibration.

My current tune is setup and refined pretty tight so I won't have any problems dialing in the increase of air that the 80mm MAF will make. I will have to replace my W/B sensor first due to it being in there since last summer. I think that it is time to change it, don't want to get inaccurate readings of my AFR.
 
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