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Hmm... that's very strange.

Seems like with the manual ecm you could just plug everything in like a factory manual and go.

Did you get PATS reflashed to the gauge cluster and everything?

As for using the auto harness, since you changed the ecm I don't think that'll work for you.

What about the clutch safety switch, did you install one, or did you leave the little pigtail/loop plugged in?
 

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yeah thats what i thought too... yep i had it towed to ford to have it all programmed when i thought i was done with it the first time.... thats when the no crank no fuel first appeared, so i had it towed back home and swapped a manual engine hareness on, still no crank or fuel... so i swapped the auto engine harness back on, then changed the manual tranny harness back to the auto and jumped the red/lt blue wire and the white/pink wire. now it cranks but still no fuel... i thought the manual and auto computers are pretty much the same except how it reads speed... when the pats system wasnt linked when i first changed ecm it was no crank no fuel.... now it cranks... but theft light flashes while cranking and after cranking... but it doesnt flash when i first put the key in until after i try to start it...
 

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Have you checked the fuel pump power feed with a test light to see if you're getting power at the pump?

Sorry I'm really no help, just trying to think of ways to troubleshoot it.
 

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R13 you are a big help... your the only one trying to help.... what did you do with the white plug on your auto harness? Did you jump any wires on it?? I appreciate all the help you've been giving... I tried to send you a pm... tried to send one to sweet2kstang since his write up is on a mach one and maybe the wiring might be a little different... I'm really baffled by what the wires in the white plug might all do and why a fuel pump wire would have anything to do with the wires in the tranny harness...
 

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yeah thats what i thought too... yep i had it towed to ford to have it all programmed when i thought i was done with it the first time.... thats when the no crank no fuel first appeared, so i had it towed back home and swapped a manual engine hareness on, still no crank or fuel... so i swapped the auto engine harness back on, then changed the manual tranny harness back to the auto and jumped the red/lt blue wire and the white/pink wire. now it cranks but still no fuel... i thought the manual and auto computers are pretty much the same except how it reads speed... when the pats system wasnt linked when i first changed ecm it was no crank no fuel.... now it cranks... but theft light flashes while cranking and after cranking... but it doesnt flash when i first put the key in until after i try to start it...
I did the opposite swap manual to auto. It's a pretty easy swap . First if your theft light is flashing you have a pats issue. Sounds like ford didn't flash your ecm right. My tuner flashed my ecm I had to bring both my manual and the auto ecm i was going to use to him. Have your tuner turn off the auto functions in your ecm and change the speedo count . Make sure your jumps behind the carpet are plugged into your clutch pedal and your car should fire. The only difference I found between auto and manual ecm is electronic pressure control is not built into the manual computer.
 

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Refresh my memory on which one was the white plug?

That's also weird that I didn't get a pm I checked my inbox and it's empty.

If it's not too much trouble post a pic of the wires you looped. The manual harness I have came from an 03 mach and everything is pretty much straight plug and play, hell I've heard that a 2v will run off a mach tune/ecm because the electrical system operates the same.

As for what I did for mine to run I'll go over it again just in case it'll help you:

All I did was swap in the trans/pedals, clutch, flywheel etc, left the auto ecm and everything. I just took the neutral safety switch off the 4r70, clicked it over to the neutral position for the gear shifter, plugged it up so the car thought it was in neutral which lets the engine run freely (at least on a 99) and ziptied it to the crossmember out of the way.

To my knowledge the car should start as long as the two safeties are looped. But yours is cranking so that tells me it's not an issue with those which has me wondering if there's not an entirely separate issue with the pump or maybe the ecm.

If you have your auto ecm you might try plugging it up and following my steps and she might start, which would tell you it's an ecm problem.

Although after going back and reading everything again I honestly feel like they might not have flashed the PATS system right. The keys, gauge cluster, ecm, the whole electrical system has to match. That old security system is honestly more like an anti-mod system lol
 

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The white plug went to the other side of the tranny and checked temp, or whatever... I swapped the computer back to the auto computer. Car finally fired and ran... so now how do I get the auto computer tuned to turn off the auto functions? We don't really have places around here like performance shops... can the dealer do it? Maybe I should take that manual comp to and see what's wrong with it... And I dunno why the pm didn't go... that's how the Internet goes I guess
 

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The white plug went to the other side of the tranny and checked temp, or whatever... I swapped the computer back to the auto computer. Car finally fired and ran... so now how do I get the auto computer tuned to turn off the auto functions? We don't really have places around here like performance shops... can the dealer do it? Maybe I should take that manual comp to and see what's wrong with it... And I dunno why the pm didn't go... that's how the Internet goes I guess
Do you have a handheld, if so any tuner that does remote tuning can do it. Your best bet is to keep the auto computer and have the auto functions turned off. It will run fine with the suto functions on but your speedo will be off and your OD light will flash. Willy lynch at dirtydirtyracing can do it and his turn around time is very quick
 

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In the meantime if you want to drive the car around a bit to see how everything's doing, leave the speedo unplugged. If I plug mine in the throttle hangs slightly while driving. If you leave the speedo unplugged it should stop that and run normally.
 

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So i have a GT manual and am pulling out the complete engine and transmission together and putting it in an auto car of the same year. Do I have to cut and splice wires on the chassis? I'm swapping the complete interior as well as the dash and column. Is it plug and play with the chassis harness and interior parts? I'm trying to get as much info as possible and am in search of answers before going to town cutting and removing. Pls send


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So i have a GT manual and am pulling out the complete engine and transmission together and putting it in an auto car of the same year. Do I have to cut and splice wires on the chassis? I'm swapping the complete interior as well as the dash and column. Is it plug and play with the chassis harness and interior parts? I'm trying to get as much info as possible and am in search of answers before going to town cutting and removing. Pls send


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If you take the transmission harness, the ecm, gauge cluster, key switches, and keys and put them in the auto it should work. Or alternatively you can swap just the ecm and have a dealer flash the PATS system so it all works with each other.

Only difference in the auto might be where the transmission harness plugs in. Some plug in behind the passenger's shock tower, others plug in on top of the bell housing, but I'm told you can pull the slack out and make them meet if the car has the plugs behind the shock tower and your harness is meant to plug in on top of the bell housing.
 

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They are both the same year. 2004 anniversary editions one is a GT the donor chassis is a convertible 2004 anniversary too. If anyone has info or heads up please do not hesitate


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If you take the transmission harness, the ecm, gauge cluster, key switches, and keys and put them in the auto it should work. Or alternatively you can swap just the ecm and have a dealer flash the PATS system so it all works with each other.

Only difference in the auto might be where the transmission harness plugs in. Some plug in behind the passenger's shock tower, others plug in on top of the bell housing, but I'm told you can pull the slack out and make them meet if the car has the plugs behind the shock tower and your harness is meant to plug in on top of the bell housing.
If you take the em to have it flashed make sure you have the automatic Vin numbe and yhe numbers off the door tags... that's the issue I'm having right now... the dealer can only tell the comp to go off the pera meters set by the Vin and build codes...
 

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R13, I tried driving it around with the speedo and everything unplugged but the engine lags bad on the shifts so its a little rough on the drivetrain... when I push in the clutch the rims wanna stay in the 2 to 3k range for about 6 seconds or so... I talked with tech at American muscle and decided to order a Bama tuner... anybody ever used Bama before
 

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Is the vert also a GT?


It was originally a v6 it is going thru changes to become a GT vert; subframe connectors torque boxes need to be added. Looking for a good place to purchase them anyone know? At present everything that can be swapped out from a factory GT to the factory convertible chassis is. I been wondering the difference between the v6 compressor for the AC and the powersteering rack and pump if they can just be bolted on to the v8. The AC compressor is really useless being a convertible but nice for the women... the rack and pump however i know i have to feed the hydroboost but what else is different from that? Any chimers on the compressor or ps pump or subframe conn/torque boxes?


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---------- Post added at 01:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:01 AM ----------

If you take the em to have it flashed make sure you have the automatic Vin numbe and yhe numbers off the door tags... that's the issue I'm having right now... the dealer can only tell the comp to go off the pera meters set by the Vin and build codes...


But stranger if I am using the key/ column, dash, ecm, engine harness, and even the doors ( wont have to swap door cards, speakers, locks, power windows) i should nt have to get it flashed should I? Like I am only using the chassis harness only because I am lazy really and the convertible top wiring and fuse box I dont want to get into that mess.


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R13, I tried driving it around with the speedo and everything unplugged but the engine lags bad on the shifts so its a little rough on the drivetrain... when I push in the clutch the rims wanna stay in the 2 to 3k range for about 6 seconds or so... I talked with tech at American muscle and decided to order a Bama tuner... anybody ever used Bama before


Weird, that's what mine does with everything plugged in o_0

If I plug my speedo in it makes my throttle/rpms hang, but if I unplug it to works fine.

Very interesting indeed... though we all know the right thing to do is get it tuned and do the swap properly, I just ran out of funds and decided to drive it like it was, but it never gave me any issues so I'm still doing it 2 years later lol
 

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this is a write up for guys that want to know what it takes to do a manual swap.

the swap itself isnt all that bad.

parts needed:

interior:
shifter
manual pedal set
clutch cable, quadrant, firewall adjuster
manual shifter bezel
shifter base insulator
shifter handle

parts:
engine seperator plate
pilot bearing
clutch kit
flywheel
flywheel bolts
pressure plate bolts (10.5 and 11in kits are different size bolts)
trans
trans fluid
trans sensors (if not with trans, manual and auto trans sensors are different)
shift fork (if not with trans)
x-member if going t56
manual trans wiring harness
driveshaft (or change to a manual yoke)

things you will have to modify:

wire harness for trans (if you use stock auto main harness)
trans tunnel
tune/ecu swap

1:

disconnect negative battery cable

remove:

auto trans
trans cooler
trans cooler lines
starter
drive shaft
wire harness
shifter bezel
brake pedal assembly

2:

if using the manual wiring harness on the auto main harness, modify it. clip the ends off (leave enough wire on harness ends to splice), and slice wires together. the color codes are the same, so just match and go. the brake/reverse lights are controled from the signal from the trans. if you color match your splices, your lights will function properly with no issues.

3:

install:

brake pedal assembly
quradrant
firewall adjuster
pilot bearing
flywheel

the flywheel bolts are longer on the manual than they are on the auto's. a dealership can get them for you pretty quick. you can also opt for arp bolts instead if you want.





you will have to jump the neutral safety wire if i remember right, no big deal. the cables for the auto shifter neutral saftey switch will need to be tucked up out of the way and be in the park position. failure to do so will cause the key not to come back to the lock position. complete removal of auto steering column and cables to swap over to a manual set up would be ideal so you can have a key lock on the manuals.

4:

now you can install the clutch kit. you can get the bolts from a good parts store, nut and bolt place, or maybe the dealership (havent tried).



put the engine seperator plate in place, and install trans as well. be sure the clutch fork is in and the TOB is installed corerctly (it can be installed wrong) install the drive shaft, and fasten everything down. hook up trans wiring harness, and put up out of the way. the harness can be installed after trans is stabbed in, but can be a pain to install if trans is up and mounted.

congrats, now the heavy stuff is done :D

5:

the trans tunnel will need to be cut open a little to clear the shifter base for the manual trans.



its not much at all, about 3/4in tall and the width of the opening. be sure to cover the opening of the trans. drill 2 holes for the shifter base insulator. uncover the trans, and install the shifter. i personally fill the trans thru the shifter, so i fill before i install shifter. if you do this, be sure car is level as possible. be sure you use a gasket on the shifter as well, a thin bead of silicone will do as well (my method). install shifter handle and bezel.

6:

install the clutch cable, be sure you fasten down the cable to the frame. a little give in the cable will cause headaches when you go to adjust cable and shift. when you go to adjust/set you clutch cable, there should be about 1/8in slack total.

7:

now you can hook up the battery, install your tune for the ecu, and start her up. if the auto ecu is not tuned, you will have a couple lights flashing, speedo may read double, and might not be able to accept a tune correctly. if everything seems good, lower car and take for a drive. congrats, you are done.

avg time, about 10-16 hrs depending on your tools and experience.
I have a question about the tune ? I can't afford a Marty tune and sct x4 hand held scanner at this time, but found a place that will do it if I send them my pcm, what all has to be done ? Just switch it from automatic to manual ?
 

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I have a question about the tune ? I can't afford a Marty tune and sct x4 hand held scanner at this time, but found a place that will do it if I send them my pcm, what all has to be done ? Just switch it from automatic to manual ?
From what i recall when i went from AUTO to manual auto you can swap from AUTO to manual but you will have check engine lights and OD light flashing. Its always best to do things right and get a tune.
 
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