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Discussion Starter #1
Alright guys, I need to know how many people maxed out their single Ford GT supercar pump, and what power levels they were at. For some reason, mine is maxing out at 4600 rpms (0.5 duty cycle and 11.250 volts) according to my datalogs and my tuner. From my understanding, I shouldn't need anything more than the single pump for my power level (assuming less than 400). What do you guys think? Wiring upgrade? BAP? upgrade FPDM? or do you think that there could have been a problem with my install? Thanks!
P.S. I'm using SCT's LiveLink to datalog, so if anyone wants to take a look at it, I will gladly send it to you.
 

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What pound injectors are you running? My GT pump has plenty of room according to my tuner. I am running 39# injectors. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I changed my signature to show my mods, but its not showing up in the original post for some reason.
But, to answer your question scooter3, my injectors are 44lbs. I would think that would be less of a problem, since mine are slightly larger.
limited, i'm getting tuned by Joe as well, he told me that some cars "max" at 0.5, some max at 1.0. My afr was 12.0 according to the datalog and my fuel pressure dropped down to 29 at about 5300 rpms :-/
**Edit: Just to clarify, I do NOT have a BAP - just a single Ford GT supercar fuel pump in an otherwise stock Mustang GT fuel system...besides the upgraded injectors**
 

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0.5 duty cycle should be the max if using SCT datalogging software. With the GT pump, my car was at 80% DC with 350/380 and 80% at 431/413 with the addition of a BAP. Running 42s and 11.0:1 air/fuel.
 

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Couple things...That pump should not be maxxed under 400rwhp with a blower. I ran mine to over 400rwhp.

The reason your maxing could be a few issues...

Kink in the fuel line from pump to hat
stock 16g wiring is just not supplying the voltage you need
could be the pprv if it wasnt deleted(must also drill holes in bucket)
Fuel filter could be clogged etc...
Could have a bad fpdm

I had the same issue you were having maxxing my pump early at mid 300rwhp, deleted the pprv and upgrade the wiring to the fpdm and pump and problemb solved.
 

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+1. I would also install a bap, good thing to have imo



Couple things...That pump should not be maxxed under 400rwhp with a blower. I ran mine to over 400rwhp.

The reason your maxing could be a few issues...

Kink in the fuel line from pump to hat
stock 16g wiring is just not supplying the voltage you need
could be the pprv if it wasnt deleted(must also drill holes in bucket)
Fuel filter could be clogged etc...
Could have a bad fpdm

I had the same issue you were having maxxing my pump early at mid 300rwhp, deleted the pprv and upgrade the wiring to the fpdm and pump and problemb solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mizark347 - Did you also upgrade the FPDM when you added the BAP?
JTs03v6 - That's what I thought. The PPRV was deleted, the basket was drilled, and its a brand new fuel filter in it (not to say it couldn't be clogged already). I guess i'm gonna have to tear it apart again to make sure there's no kink in the fuel line and maybe upgrade the wiring.
limited - I agree, I just don't want to buy it if I don't need it for sure yet. Plus my tuner told me that I would HAVE to upgrade the FPDM with the GT pump AND a BAP.
Thanks for all your input so far guys, I really appreciate it.
 

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I can't believe Joe told you that you would have to upgrade your fpdm if you run a bap and a single gt pump, just not true. I don't and nobody else that I know of does ethier.
I would get one anyway.(bap) it can be used with any fuel pump setup you use(40a version)

Also a kinked fuel line is a common problem with gt pump installs, It require attention when installing
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I planned on getting a 40 amp BAP either way, but I just don't want to spend ~$260 on the BAP then need another $150 for an upgraded FPDM, you know? I will have to (unfortunately) tear back in to the tank and make sure everything still looks ok. I figure I can do that while I do the BAP - and maybe a wiring upgrade as well (i'm undecided as to whether the wiring upgrade is worth it or not)
 

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Get a 20 amp bap. 40amp is for dual pumps.

No upgraded FPDM needed. Just splice your bap in and your good to go. Trust us
 

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Baker Jr.
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Wiring upgrade wont be needed either.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The reason for the 40 amp is because it was my understanding it would be safer with the GT pump since it draws more amperage than the stock pump. That and if I ever need to upgrade to a dual-pump setup, I would already have the necessary BAP for it. Or am I wrong and should just get the 20 amp now and sell/trade when/if I upgrade?
 

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That intercooler looks sick man. How did you do that? Any more pics?

Mine with the single Ford GT pump, 42lb injectors, at 11.75 AFR maxed at 5500 with 375rwhp. With a BAP, Im at 83% at 380rwhp (made 401rwhp that day)

A 20A bad will be fine. A 40amp is for dual pumps. Like a Cobra hat with twin pumps. But you can still run a 40amp BAP. Itll be good if you upgrade to a Cobra hat later down the road.

These Ford GT pumps suck. They can max at 370rwhp, or 430rwhp. I would have just done a focus 255lph pump. Those are a lot more consistent. I usually see them max around 420rwhp.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Alrighty, 40 amp BAP it is! :-D (I mean its only $25 more, I might as well make it future-proof)
Shaun - I had the idea at the time that I would get an 03/04 Cobra bumper some time down the road and thought having something on the intercooler would be badass. That "some time" hasn't come yet, but to answer your question. I went on Google, found the GT logo for our generation Mustangs, blew it up, printed it, cut it out, then layed it down on top of the intercooler like a stencil, I used a few strategically placed pieces of painters tape to hold it down, then I simply VERY lightly sprayed it with multiple light layers of black spray paint until I got it solid enough that I was satisfied. Then I took that pic and a few others just because I had a feeling I wouldn't be getting that bumper anytime soon. Performance > Looks in my book.
***Edit: Shaun - I added an album to my profile with the only pictures I've got of the intercooler.***
 

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That came out really good man. I like that. Ive thought about doing something like that when I get a new intercooler.
 

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deff go with a 40 amp bap, they are easy to re-sell and they work fine with a single pump setup. also do the wire upgrade it is cheap and easy to make on your own. im not sure why your fuel pump is getting such little volts but it should be getting a minimum of 13 volts, but the bap and wire upgrade with fix that.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Shaun - thanks, I appreciate it, just know that once you think you have enough on there, put another few coats on. mine is already getting worn off after less than a year of driving.
stal - The wiring is another thing I plan on looking at while I drop the tank and install the BAP. The problem I have with the "wiring upgrade" is what others have said before, what's the point in simply upgrading the majority of wire and not upgrade all of it. What I mean is, the "wiring upgrade" i've seen tells you to run 10-8 gauge wire from the battery back to the fpdm and to the fuel pump, but they want you to splice into the smaller gauge wire to get to the connector...what's the point if your just gonna leave the 'bottleneck' in? Idk, im not an electrician, but I do understand a little about how electricity works. And that doesn't make sense to me.
 

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Shaun - thanks, I appreciate it, just know that once you think you have enough on there, put another few coats on. mine is already getting worn off after less than a year of driving.
stal - The wiring is another thing I plan on looking at while I drop the tank and install the BAP. The problem I have with the "wiring upgrade" is what others have said before, what's the point in simply upgrading the majority of wire and not upgrade all of it. What I mean is, the "wiring upgrade" i've seen tells you to run 10-8 gauge wire from the battery back to the fpdm and to the fuel pump, but they want you to splice into the smaller gauge wire to get to the connector...what's the point if your just gonna leave the 'bottleneck' in? Idk, im not an electrician, but I do understand a little about how electricity works. And that doesn't make sense to me.
Im sugesting the wire upgrade for you cause you mentioned that your pump was only getting 11 volts which is extremely low. Another reason wire upgrades are good is they provide a clean path for power to run threw. No other accessories hooked in to the wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I bought the 40 amp BAP, when it gets here i'll drop the tank and make sure everything looks good, as well as upgrade the wiring. That way all of my bases are covered, and I should have no more fuel issues until/if/when I rebuild the motor to handle more power. Any "fun" I should look forward to in terms of having issues with either the BAP install or the wiring upgrade? Is the wiring upgrade kit from Lethal Performance worth the $55 or should I just go to Radio Shack/Advance Auto and get the individual pieces myself?
 
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