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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, finally got my electrical problems solved. Woulda happened last week, but there was an issue with a relay that was throwing everything off even after I wired it up the right way, so now it's all settled and done..Almost. Anybody happen to know the technique for pulling off the ground on the engine block? It's like right behind the oil filter for reference as to what I'm talking about. I can see the bolt, it's just a ridiculously tight space and I'm wondering if there's a trick or known method other than to keep working at it till you get it. I'm trying to ditch the stock 4 gauge and use the 0 gauge I've got running from the battery. Thanks!
 

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Head Unicorn
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No need to disconnect it. Just add the 0 gauge to another block boss.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah i ended up getting it with a friend's deep socket. Very tight, but I got it. And now the car is worse than it was when I had the 0 gauge ran to the stock wire that went to the block. The two things that happened are my buddy cut the ground strap from the block to the chassis because he was trying to get the wrong bolt out and the whole thing ended up backing out of the block, so we replaced that with a nice new stud and sandwiched a new wire in it's place to make up a new chassis ground on the frame rail, then i got to the second bolt on my own with the block to battery ground, removed that and was able to keep the stock stud in the block, and just replaced the stock wire with my 0 gauge, and it's getting terrible voltage drops. Any idea what could've gone wrong here?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The result is that the lights flicker with the battery light like crazy, worse than it ever was, and the ABS light is on, and if the headlights go on, the left turn signal and high beam are illuminated as well lol it's really ridiculous
 

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Head Unicorn
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Sounds like a bad ground. Did you remove paint in the trunk where you attached the 0 cable to the body/chassis? Did you remove paint where you attached the block ground to the body/chassis?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, and yes. The only places where paint wasn't removed (idk how it woulda been) is where the two cables were attached on the block by the engine mount. I'm not sure how familiar you are with how that's setup, but for reference, it's a stud with a bolt(nut?) about half way, and then more threads after that to sandwich a connection in onto that stud. Could rust on the old bolt be causing a bad ground case?
 

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Head Unicorn
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I'm familiar. Studs threaded into the block (theres no paint inside the block's stud bosses) are great grounds. Rust can cause an issue, not surface rust, If you have a stud threaded into the block, with a nut securing the new cable end.... I doubt any surface rust would have any impact. Have you considered suicide? I'd be ready to blow my brains out by now.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
hahaha dude, these last few weeks have taken quite a toll while I'm approaching finals in school as well. I'm dropping it off tomorrow to the local auto electrician. The guy is a mustang fanatic. had a 7 second bottle fed fox a while back lol. he was very reassuring when I asked if he'd get it figured out, so i'll be counting on that! I've got my eyes on a 2012 5.0 a little south of me if i can get this thing sold for 10, i'd be in the clear to buy that one and never touch it and have a fast stock car!
 

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Head Unicorn
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Not as fast as you think. Yes they have more power, yes they weigh more. Don't get me wrong, I love the new S197 with a Coyote but it's a different animal. With your LISTED mph, slicks and a good driver you have a high 12 second car. Your thread is about to flood with people calling bullshit...... I've owned numerous Mustangs, 102 MPH indicates sufficient HP to drive the living **** out of it after a 6000 RPM launch on slicks and run a 12. I'd keep the New Edge, just my opinion though.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, I'd love to keep my car. I've got so much into it already. And I know it's got more than what I've gotten out of it so far..I've never gotten better than a 2.1 60' lol. It's just tough to have faith when as you've seen, I haven't had it running 100% in about a year. Hopefully tomorrow works out and it comes back strong. I would really like to pick up mrbigjeep's nitrous setup for 450 shipped once this dust settles...
 

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Head Unicorn
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Yeah, I'd love to keep my car. I've got so much into it already. And I know it's got more than what I've gotten out of it so far..I've never gotten better than a 2.1 60' lol. It's just tough to have faith when as you've seen, I haven't had it running 100% in about a year. Hopefully tomorrow works out and it comes back strong. I would really like to pick up mrbigjeep's nitrous setup for 450 shipped once this dust settles...
The electrical needs to be fixed before you add nitrous to the equation..... a failing spark is not what you need with nitrous. Slicks will net you at least a 1.6, but should be a 1.5...... deduct the minimum .5 second from your existing 1/4 mile and you're at 13.4. practice the driving and you'll find the rest. It's there. Nitrous is damn sure the best way to go in my opinion but I'm a dying breed. A 100 shot will get you to the low 12's if your driving/shifting skill will get you there. Slightly more will get you into the 11s. Begin dropping weight...... low 11s. It's all possible. Just depends what you want and how far you're willing to go. Don't lose sight of the goal. Stick with it and get the electrical figured out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ah yeah of course! I wouldn't think twice about throwing nitrous at it without it running 100%. That is just such a deal, but I don't wanna buy it and let it end up going to waste. I've also never ran on anything besides my 32lb fr500's, so that gets thrown into the equation as well. I'm just so pissed, idk how just removing the stock 4 gauge from the equation ended up making my situation worse when all was said and done. I try to be as much of a do-it-yourself'er as possible, but this one's really got me stumped. Thanks for your help and insight though man!
 

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Head Unicorn
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I wouldn't let the nitrous kit go... it will work on anything. Even a Camry. Buy it. Put it in a box. Keep it. You'll use it.

I don't know why it's created a problem either, and again, I'm certainly not the electrical go to guy. I'm a 12V idiot. I'm a %100 do-it-yourselfer, but I have a 12V guy that does all of my wiring and electrical troubleshooting.......... not my forte. Let your electrical guy sort it out and get it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've got an AIS meth kit I'm sitting on from Willy Mo as well(I remember reading meth goes well with nitrous)...And LT's and an O/R X and magnapacks and 31 spline axles and cobra diff...the parts are all there, it just fell apart when this issue came up. I need to finish the build. thanks for the pick-me-up man!
 

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Head Unicorn
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I don't know anything about meth injection with nitrous as an add-on. Methanol is a highly stable (non-petroleum) fuel with excellent resistance to detonation however. If you want the methanol's stability why not just buy fuel solenoids for the nitrous kit that are alky compatible and jet accordingly. No need to add a meth kit without boost... no need to add one with nitrous (since you can simply add a fuel cell under the hood, as I did, with Methanol and use alky solenoids).
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hmm, I like the idea a lot! Just gotta get my kit sold in order to start that project. Anyway, I got the car back and it's like i never had a problem! Except now the ABS and Traction Control lights are on, and I have a weird turn signal issue. I think the turn signal issue might be load resistor related, which I'll find out in the next hour, but any guesses on the ABS and traction?
 

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Head Unicorn
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ABS and traction control are the same system... most likely a sensor failure.
 
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