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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Morning guys,

In the next few months i'll be looking at picking up a few mild engine mods... im looking on doing it on a budget as funds are tight. Ive had a look at a number of parts to suit, im only wanting to go look into a modest 300hp or so...

And advice, suggestions on anything i can do differently or cheaper (i hate to use that word but its a must) id be very grateful...

the following parts:
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/EDL-5023/1979-95-Mustang-50L-58L-Edelbrock-E-Street-Fully-Assembled-1
Edelbrock e-street heads

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/PFM-66911/1-6-Ratio-3-8-Stud-Mount-Roller-Rocker-Arms-For-Small-Block-Ford
Roller rockers

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/CCA-2138/Mustang-Timing-Chain-Set-50-58L-Magnum-Double-Roller
timing chain (as im not sure of the overall mileage of the motor)

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M6250E303/85-95-Mustang-50L-58L-Ford-Racing-E303-Hydraulic-Roller-Camshaft
ford racining e303 cam

if there is no wear and tear on the pushrods could i re-use or should i replace?


Thanks everyone
Jamie
 

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If you're looking for 300hp, the list you made will get you there, but you will also need a upper & lower intake, throttle body, mass air meter, probably injectors(at least 24's), bigger fuel pump(I recommond a 255 Walbro), headers & full exhaust. I think this would put you closer to 350 flywheel HP.
Also if your car is an 88 it may be speed desisity, you'll have to convert to mass air!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you're looking for 300hp, the list you made will get you there, but you will also need a upper & lower intake, throttle body, mass air meter, probably injectors(at least 24's), bigger fuel pump(I recommond a 255 Walbro), headers & full exhaust. I think this would put you closer to 350 flywheel HP.
Also if your car is an 88 it may be speed desisity, you'll have to convert to mass air!
Hi there thanks for that :)

i've just currently built my own custom exhaust no cats, no centre pipes, its all straight through till the tips. Custom chrome mufflers at the rear ive made my own rear hangers and clamps. 2.5"

ive got an upper and lower trick flow manifold

in the process of converting the SD to a MAF sensor with a wiring kit. the sensor i have looks like a standard 65mm (temporary)

got some standard bosch 19lb injectors.

also have an uprated high flow water pump, de-smogged, no A/C, fluidyne rad, baer big brake kit,

Thanks very much for your help :D
 

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I wouldn't dick around with those heads honestly.. and for about hundred bucks more i'd go with a good set like tfs twisted wedge or afr's because those heads have had issues

Edelbrock E-Street - Mustang Forums at StangNet

There's also a detailed thread with pics over on corral but im too lazy and hung over to look for it.

Cam is junk and can be had for under hun bucks used because it's 1990 technology.. figure out exacty what heads your going to be using and what kind of power you want to extract from the heads before you decide on a cam.

tfs intake is a 70mm opening most likely so pickup a throttle body that'll match it and go with the largest mass air meter you can find calibrated for your 19lb injectors because with 300 hp you won't really need to bump up to 24's unless your over that mark

biggest bang for the buck other then forced induction would be gears.. if you haven't changed your ring n pinion gear set concider it. It'll make a huge difference.
 

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I wouldn't dick around with those heads honestly.. and for about hundred bucks more i'd go with a good set like tfs twisted wedge or afr's because those heads have had issues

Edelbrock E-Street - Mustang Forums at StangNet
that was a good info......and to the OP, read that link that flyin ryan posted, im sure you wont want them after that. Go with trick flow ar afr heads, but if your going with AFR go 185 or bigger
 

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If you're looking for 300hp, the list you made will get you there, but you will also need a upper & lower intake, throttle body, mass air meter, probably injectors(at least 24's), bigger fuel pump(I recommond a 255 Walbro), headers & full exhaust. I think this would put you closer to 350 flywheel HP.
Also if your car is an 88 it may be speed desisity, you'll have to convert to mass air!
You honestly think that e-street heads and an e-cam will make 350 at the fly? Even with all the rest of the stuff you listed, that's not happening on a 302.

I wouldn't dick around with those heads honestly.. and for about hundred bucks more i'd go with a good set like tfs twisted wedge or afr's because those heads have had issues

Edelbrock E-Street - Mustang Forums at StangNet

There's also a detailed thread with pics over on corral but im too lazy and hung over to look for it.

Cam is junk and can be had for under hun bucks used because it's 1990 technology.. figure out exacty what heads your going to be using and what kind of power you want to extract from the heads before you decide on a cam.

tfs intake is a 70mm opening most likely so pickup a throttle body that'll match it and go with the largest mass air meter you can find calibrated for your 19lb injectors because with 300 hp you won't really need to bump up to 24's unless your over that mark

biggest bang for the buck other then forced induction would be gears.. if you haven't changed your ring n pinion gear set concider it. It'll make a huge difference.
^ Yup ... First thing I thought of was that thread on corral when the op mentioned e-street heads. Don't mess with them WARNING: Edelbrock E-Street Heads - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 

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After reading that article, I'd stay away from those heads. You're going to want to stay with a roller cam. Check with Summit Racing, the last 2 years they have put the Trick Flow twisted wedge 170 heads on sale in the fall for $950 for the single spring version or $999 for the dual spring version. I boght a set last year with the dual springs. Smokin Deal! on a far superior head!
 

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Pick up some TF 170's used. Pick up a used cam (I have a TF Stage 1 that I will part with for 130 shipped if you are interested), the TF intake will support a 75mm tb, and you will need at least 24lb injectors with that setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thank you very much for the input guys... i really appreciate the feebback on this...

that article put things in perspective and i dont think i will be touching the E heads... i did however star having a look at the trick flows and the AFR's...

im drawn more to the AFR heads as they seem to suit more what i want in terms of power...

which head is best out of these 2?

1979-95 Mustang 5.0L/5.8L Afr Fully Assembled 185Cc Stud Mount Cylinder Heads With 72Cc Combustion Chamber at LRS - Same Day Shipping!
Combustion Chamber Volume (cc): 72cc
Intake Runner Volume (cc): 185cc
Exhaust Runner Volume (cc): 68cc

or

1979-95 Mustang 5.0L/5.8L Afr Fully Assembled 185Cc Stud Mount Cylinder Heads With 58Cc Combustion Chamber at LRS - Same Day Shipping!
Combustion Chamber Volume (cc): 58cc
Intake Runner Volume (cc): 185cc
Exhaust Runner Volume (cc): 68cc

im assuming the 185/72/68 for better air/exhaust/combustion
 

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72cc will lower your compression quite a bit. You want the 58cc.. if you're looking for the most power for the head, the TF 170 is the better bet. Don't let the 170cc intake runner size fool you. The intake runner has nearly the same cross section as a 185AFR. It's design will also allow you to run a 2.02 valve on your stock pistons, and the AFR won't. Although notching isn't terrible if you have to do it. The rotated valve on the TW head is a better design than the AFR. The AFR is a great head, but the intake runner and the stock location intake valve give the TW the edge. It's really splitting hairs, power wise, at the lever you're looking for, but the cheaper price, and the fact that you will clear stock pistons, plus make more power makes the TF a no-brainer to me. I ran them on stock relief type pistons with a .553/222 intake lobe and didn't have any PTV issues.
 

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Also definitely stay away from those rockers. They're proform. Proform makes cheap copies of stuff and they use inconsistent dies/casts, and cheap metal. They have a reputation for breaking. I had a proform waterpump break after 2 days use. Lots of people with posts about proform rockers breaking and the rocker ratio being inconsistent from rocker to rocker. One of those in the set might be 1.6 and the next could be 1.8...... fast, cheap reliable, pick two.
 
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