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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1991 5.0 LX Hatch and it is stock except for 3.73s and exhaust and I want make it handle awesome for Weekend driving and eventually some Autocross next summer. I was thinking about buying this kit to install over the winter and as I looked through the parts I noticed there are no upc's.

1990-93 Mustang Road & Track Box includes

* MM Road & Track Springs
* MM Caster/Camber Plates (select Black or Chrome finish option)
* Bilstein struts
* Bilstein shocks
* Front and rear Urethane Spring Isolators
* Urethane Pinion Snubber (solid axle Mustangs)
* MM XL Series Full-length Subframe Connectors
* MM Strut Tower Brace
* MM 4-Point K-Member Brace
* MM Panhard Bar with Aluminum Rod
* MM Heavy-duty Rear Lower Control Arms
* MM Solid Steering Shaft
* MM Solid Steering rack Bushings
* Front Swaybar bushings
* Front Swaybar end links
* Front control arm bushings, urethane

Is this because you do not need them or are you supposed to keep the stock ones or what? I would like to hit the drag strip at some point, not often but maybe once or twice a summer, any suggestions? Will this also be a night and day difference in my fox? Thanks in advance for any input anyone can provide.
 

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There is a suspension thread in the modular forum that has tons of great info and is up to date. all i can say about the kit is lose the strut tower brace :D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There is a suspension thread in the modular forum that has tons of great info and is up to date. all i can say about the kit is lose the strut tower brace :D
Is it just not needed or not very good quality from MM on that part? and thanks for the info I'll check that thread out too.
 

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It is not needed.
You are really doing the right thing by going with a kit. I am a big fan of the MM Kits. If you have never been in a car with full MM parts, you will not believe how it handles when its done... Srsly, like its on rails!!! You WILL be happy with that setup, I promise!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
so i want to get that kit with exception of the strut tower brace? Are there any more parts you would recommend buying or not buying? and thanks for your input so far
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok so I bought that setup today without the strut tower brace. I'm temporarily broke for now, but as soon as I get some extra cash I was going to buy the MM torque arm and eliminate the upcs all together.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
id also like to know why to ditch the fron strut brace, when back in the 60's for the trans am races the old stangs had front strut tower braces?
I was wondering that too, but I went through the suspension thread in the 4.6 section and found that the strut tower brace will stiffen the front end suspension decreasing the front grip and also cause some understeer.
 

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The brace is good if the rear end is stiff enough. If your rear end is not stiff enough, the brace will make the front end dis-proportionately stiff. This leads to understear. The brace is not really required. I like it because I like the idea of the car being super stiff. But I also think that it is likely that unless you have a cage or the full torque arm set up, that the strut tower brace is probably over kill.

So, I say try it when you get the torque arm installed, otherwise, don't worry about it too much.
 

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you'll need the strut tower brace if you run coilovers. it helps strengthen the strut towers for the lateral forces that would be applied to it.
 

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strut tower brace is not vital. nor is it needed for coilover setup.

caster camber plates are needed for a coilover setup for the extra
rigidity.
 

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we will see just ordered and in process of installing

MM coilovers up front
MM steering shaft
MM bumpsteer kit
MM tubular a arms
MM torque arm
MM panhard bar

i already have MM STB and MM camber caster plates with wolfe subframe connectors and CHE rear shock tower brace....needless to say im excited! to see when its done

all i need is MM lower control arms and adjustable MM rear sway bar
 

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strut tower brace is not vital. nor is it needed for coilover setup.

caster camber plates are needed for a coilover setup for the extra
rigidity.

question, if the STB is no good, whats ur opinion on the 4 point k member brace, which reduces flex on the bottom, and the STB would reduce flex from the top
 

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question, if the STB is no good, whats ur opinion on the 4 point k member brace, which reduces flex on the bottom, and the STB would reduce flex from the top
What flex on the top? I've never seen any numbers from anyone that's actually taken measurements as to how much the top of the k-member flexes; just internet hearsay that it does, and you should get an STB because of it. There's just no real lateral force on the top of the struts.

Now on the bottom, where the a-arms are tilted slightly forward, sure there's some compressional force. And if you're not cursed with an automatic or blessed with the ability to get a tubular k-member, a g-load brace would do some good. (Of course, I've never seen any measurements as to how much flex occurs down there, either).
 

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my thing, is the fox bodys FLEX alot! everyone knows fox body mustangs flex and twist, even ppl who arent mustang ppl my buddy was like u own a fox....flimsy fox

and he doesnt know anything about mustangs

so what im tryin to get at is, id think every brace,frame connector, you can buy would help, top bottom etc etc 10 point cage everything

Now is it nessasary on a DD or bolt on street car....maybe not but if one is tryin to build a BEAST (wether it be a drag car or road race/autocross car) youd want front and rear strut/shock tower braces, subframe connectors, k member brace (even better tubular k member) roll bar/roll cage etc etc

once you get the chassis flex eliminated your suspension will be able to work properly and you will be able to align and tune your car.
 
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