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mm's nitrous mod
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
doing another write up for those that have questions on what to do on your car after "full bolt ons" are acheived.

bolt on definition: power adding accessories that is bolted on to add power (and is not a power adder) that does not require removal of any item to expose vital fluids.

what is safe power ratings for the 4.6 2v? 425-450rwhp is about where a 2v can be safely pushed to as long as tune and supporting mods are done.

what is a long block/short block? short refers to an engines block and rotating assembly. long block is a short block with the addition of oil pan, heads, valve covers, and sometimes timing equipment.

what to look into after bolt ons? depends on what route you want to go. things to look into would be heads, cams, forged rotating assembly, power adders, and other supporting mods.

power is only as good as its weakest point weather it is traction, fuel supply, trans capabilities, etc. you can make a ton of power, but its useless if you can not utilize it. always flan your parts with the overall end goals in mind.

intake manifold: the stock intake manifold is a damn decent design and has been hard to beat. this has been proved over and over again. the stock manifold has been shown to be sufficient to mid 6k rpm's, decent amount of boost, and great on the street. when looking into a manifold be sure to know what you are getting yourself into and that you get one that is suited to your needs.

cooling: the stock cooling system has also been shown to be more than sufficient for the cars as well. when looking at even changing the thermostat, then be sure to be careful with that as well. if you go less than a 180, then a tune will be needed to set the ecu up to correctly run everything.

ignition: the stock ignition system is a decent set up and will be plenty for a lot of people. not all coils are made the same, be sure to do your homework before you buy. ignition boxes are something else to look at as well in the extreme that you need more. usually the only times you need to plan for more than stock is for aggressive set ups. high rpm duties, boost, nitrous, are examples of times when ignition systems might need to be upgraded. when upgrading, you are able to open the gap a little, tune more aggressive, etc because spark blow out wont be as big of a factor.

what cam? which cam to go with will depend on overall goal with car. stages of cams are just ways to look at what a cam is designed to do. there is a difference with each manufacture on how they rate their cams. cam manufactures go thru vigorous testing to make cams that suit many peoples needs. i personally tired of hearing "get a custom". if you have an aggressive or uncommon set up, go with one. if you have a set up that a lot of people do/have done then there is a cam out on the shelf that is plenty suitable for you. if you think you just have to have a custom cam done, then by all means go for it. there are huge differences in cams and how they work. there will be some that will work better for a certain set but that cam may not be suitable for another even though it might be close to the same.

heads: heads are where the magic happens. its all about VE, the better VE (volumetric efficientcy) the more power you are going to make and how long an engine will last. which heads should you go with? one form a reputable shop/person. there are differences with ported heads. some may like brand x, others will disagree. porting is not just about making things bigger, its about fully utilizing the port design with the volume of air required to be moved.

light rotating items in the valvetrain leads to less parasitic loss. this is where titanium retainers, lighter spacers, aftermarket valves, etc come in to play. aftermarket valves have their advantages, not just something to buy just to say you have them. they are lighter, usually undercut, swirl polished, and have less material on the face for better ptv clearance. retainers may be a have to item depending on valve spring/cam selection.

rotating assemblys: the stock rotating assembly in the vs are far less than stellare. ford did a great job with the block and what a cast crank can handle. the blocks are strong enough to hold more than pump gass will power and what 97% of people will be able to afford. no matter the block, i personally reccommend main studs/girdle after 800rwhp and head studs after 550rwhp. the stock cast cranks from ford are able to withstand 650rwhp or more. you can treat the cast cranks and they will be able to hold around 800rwhp or more. the cobra cranks or aftermarket cranks have seen 1200+ rwhp with supporting mods.

rods: when looking at aftermarket rods and pistons, be sure to know you are looking at quality parts. building these modulars are expensive and not something that you want to do/pay for more than once. a forged i beam is a good step for a safe mild build for apps up to around 550rwhp. an h-beam will be your next step and they are usually good for 750-850rwhp at a certain rpm. if you are looking at a rod that is capable of holding 700hp at 8500rp's, that same rod might be rated 900 at 7000 rpm's. that is just an example, not a real rating. plan on going with a mad house motor? then congratulations, you just stepped up to the expensive billit I-beam. these rods are light, strong, and damn expensive. most wioll never need a rod of this caliber, but if you find yourself needing them then rest assured that you are paying for strength.

pistons: piston differences and brand names come in a variety of flavors. a set of hyperutectics are a decent piston and will take a decent amount of abuse. people are quick to talk bad about them, but they are a very good piece for the price and the average person. if needing strength, then of course you are looking into a set of forged pistons. manufactures forge pistons at different pressures suitable to what they believe the material should be done at. the forging process removes impurities in the material and makes them stronger and lighter. compression ratio's will vary depending on pistons and their dish/dome.

compression ratio: deciding compression ratio that is best suited for you will depend all on your set up, fuel, and tuning. static compression and dynamic compression should be looked at when you deciding on your purchase. your PD blowers and turbo's will need a low compression, a centri blower can take a little more forgiving and is somewhat more forgiving (to an extent), and nitrous can take more compression than the other 2 but there is a breaking point as well. the pressures the cylinders will be subjected to is reasoning to know what piston volume you should get.

supporting mods:

air inlet: the stock MAF will support roughly 355rwhp or so if i remember right. for n/a the 90mm MAF will be sufficient. on boosted application, the 90mm will carry up in the 500rwhp range before they are not enough. other MAF solutions are the sct BAxxx, dbx, and the hpx slot style as well. another solution if your MAF is just not enough, is to run a diablo mafia.

another debate that is long going is 70mm vs 75mm or the newer 78mm t/b and elbow. these aftermarket items are capable of handling quiet a bit of power, approx 700cfm depending on which set up you have. the stock plenum in stock form is the choking point, it can be improved with some work but the short side on it is the issue.

fuel: the fuel system is one area to look at for supporting mods. your fuel system should be able to hold your power levels safel at 80% duty cycle. fuel pumps vary and is required when the stock one is not sufficient enough. the stock fuel line itself is good for around 600-650ish rwhp. the stock fuel rails are good and have seen north of 550rwhp with liitle/no issue. the stock 19lb fuel injectors are capable of getting to 320rwhp or so before they pecker out. fuel injectors will support power, not add any.

drivetrain: this is usually the second most often overlooked supporting mod. your flywheel/clutch kit should be the weakest spot in the drivetrain. it is safer/cheaper for the clutch to slip than to have one to hit hard and shock the rest of drivetrain. i cant stress enough to get a clutch that is suited for the power/torque levels you are pushing. over clutching can result in a lot of broken parts.

the transmissions in these cars arent stellar and need some working on to get strong enough for desireable capabilities. a good clutch, trans, shifter, and driver is a must to get the best results from your trans.

the rear end is one item that is the most focused on of the drivetrain. a lot of guys talk down on the stock 28 spline set up but is stronger that what people give them credit for. this is also where clutch, power levels, and tires play a factor. a set of good aftermarket axles alone is enough to hold a bolt on car that see's occasional drag duties. moving to a 31 spline set up is great and should be done if the car will see hard abuse.

a persons selection of tires is probably one of the biggest reason of breaking or poor results. a radial tire is not a very forgiving tire and causes a lot of shock on the whole drivetrain depending on driver. a bias ply will absorb shock and is so much more forgiving. if you are going to beat the hell out of the car at the track, go with a set of bias ply's.

suspension: this is the most overlooked supporting mod that i see. if you cant hook it, you are just wasting power. there is suspension guides on here so i wont go into great depth. there is a difference in set up depending on what your goals are for. be sure to look at the overall picture for the suspension items you are wanting to go with.

weight: its not just about the power, its about the power to weight as well. this is known and proven so no reason to go into great depth. if you are looking to make a fast light car, you arent going to be the most pleasant of comfortable on the street. be sure to make your car exactly the way you want and you will be happy with the decision you make.

building: the modular engine a kind of a handfull to build, not just a good ol pushrod motor. these motors dont like anything out of tolerance, be sure that you or your builder knows what all to do if building one. each person, builder, porter, etc has their own way to do things. they have their strategy's and secrets that they do and like. each are different from each builder, but the conclusion is always the same.

this is just an overveiw, i tired of typing right now and will end it here for now. if you want me to add anything in, please let me know. i know there is more, but this could be a mile long going into a lot of detail.
 

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!FACEPLATED!
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15,305 Posts
Good write up Mike, dont forget about brakes. Often lots of people add all this ginormous power but never do anything with the brakes to help stop that faster vehicle.
 

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Registered
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16,245 Posts
damn bro! you gettin after it! Nice!
 

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Billy Weston
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Great thread.... I figured I would be an ass and point out a few things you may want to tweak. :D
You may want to spell out VE in the head section. The first time you hit me with that acronym I had no idea what you were talking about.

the cobra cranks or aftermarket cranks have seen + rwhp with supporting mods.
-this is missing a number
 

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Not a Rational Car Guy
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38,186 Posts
Very nice Mike.
 

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Boost gets you laid
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reps!
 

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mm's nitrous mod
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12,988 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks guys. i did this on lap top and i dont really like doing things on it. it was giving me fits when i was trying to edit a couple things, so i will go back and fix what i catch. i would of made this a sticky after it was seen, i dont do it right away since a lot of people overlook the sticky's.
 

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thanks guys. i did this on lap top and i dont really like doing things on it. it was giving me fits when i was trying to edit a couple things, so i will go back and fix what i catch. i would of made this a sticky after it was seen, i dont do it right away since a lot of people overlook the sticky's.
smart man
 
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