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PAXTON
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I have a Novi 2200 as a blow through setup on my 06 GT with the anderson power pipe, Steeda CMCV deletes, JBA shorty headers and FRP stingers. I researched the general rwhp and rwtq numbers for Vortech, Paxton, and Procharger setups and know them to be down on torque in comparison to other blowers such as Twin screws and some Turbos.

That being said I was looking for anyone elses experience on possibly gaining more Torque out of this kinda of setup. I've considered changing gearing and possibly some long tube headers but am always looking to see if theres something i might of missed. I will post dyno numbers soon and the graph for my car.
 

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What exactly do you mean by down in torque? The different kind of S/C's are going to make torque in different ways. Turbo's are going to have the least parasitic loss, and then centris and twin screws. Twin screws are gong to make the torques earlier and have a flatter curve. Centris are going to be a little slower building up and turbos are generally going to have a bit of lag compared to the others. So back to your question, what is it your looking for? Power down low, peak torque, building the area under the curve???
 

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4.10 gears will help the car move out. Centri cars will make all there power at higher rpms. If you have a big enough blower you can put a waste gate on it, put a smaller pulley and it will make plenty torque. But there's a downfall to that running the blower pretty hard
 

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FBGM
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^^ Heat soak?
 

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What exactly do you mean by down in torque? The different kind of S/C's are going to make torque in different ways. Turbo's are going to have the least parasitic loss, and then centris and twin screws. Twin screws are gong to make the torques earlier and have a flatter curve. Centris are going to be a little slower building up and turbos are generally going to have a bit of lag compared to the others. So back to your question, what is it your looking for? Power down low, peak torque, building the area under the curve???
This statement is very false.
 

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This statement is very false.

I'm talking about the shape of the torque curve, not in overall performance. Turbo's are the bomb diggity in making power when compared to the other forms of F/I.
 

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This is a dyno sheet from an unloaded dyno, so the boost comes in full about 1000rpm soon on the street. If you move full boost 1k rpm lower then the tq should peak there too as the tq peaks at the same time as full boost is achieved. This was also a dyno run with a set of "noise" cams that seem to inhibit tq on turbo cars because of the tight LSA(more common that tq numb ers are higher than hp on turbo cars). Those cams stayed in for about 500 miles and is back to stock cams now. Anyway, I would say the tq comes in pretty quick...

 

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OP, if you want more power lower in the rpm band either change your FI or go to a wastegated centri setup.
 

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OP, if you want more power lower in the rpm band either change your FI or go to a wastegated centri setup.
Wastegates are used on turbocharged set-ups they are installed in the exhaust in front of the turbo to divert exhaust gas's away from the turbo to control BOOST could be a new one on me but I have never heard of a wastegate being used on a belt driven centri set-up Blow off valve yes but they are 2 different things
 

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run a smaller pulley and and set your rev limiter earlier. I had the same problem on my 07. i was at 505rwhp and only 410rwtq. I sold the setup before i ever got to change anything. I'm going turbo this time around(next month:))
 

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Wastegates are used on turbocharged set-ups they are installed in the exhaust in front of the turbo to divert exhaust gas's away from the turbo to control BOOST could be a new one on me but I have never heard of a wastegate being used on a belt driven centri set-up Blow off valve yes but they are 2 different things
Procharger dudes do it all the time
 

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Wastegates are used on turbocharged set-ups they are installed in the exhaust in front of the turbo to divert exhaust gas's away from the turbo to control BOOST could be a new one on me but I have never heard of a wastegate being used on a belt driven centri set-up Blow off valve yes but they are 2 different things
Maybe you missed my sig that says I HAVE A TURBO on my car. It is pretty simple to run a wastegate on a centri car. Maybe do some research before you tell me I'm wrong. Guys have been doing it for quite some time.
 

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If you have a big enough blower you can have a waste gate on it just put a smaller pulley on it . Example: put a pulley for 20 psi on it compared to let's say 12 psi pulley . So at 4500 rpm with a 12 psi pulley it would make 6 psi, to were the with a 20 psi pulley wastegated at 4500 it would make 10-12 psi and hold that to redline . Which equals more hp/tq at lower rpms. But the downfall to it is running the blower pretty hard which would cause sum heat soak. And wear on the blower

That's just an example for the ones who never heard of this
 
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^Correct, but if he is on the stock shortblock he could use a pull for say around 14lbs and gate it for 10 and should still be well within the efficiency of the blower. It is good to have a good cooler for the air charge doing this though
 

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Yea I haven't really seen anybody do this on stock motors and mainly on on terminator cobras.

I was thinking of doin that on my setup a while back but decided not to
 

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I <3 Boost
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If you have a big enough blower you can have a waste gate on it just put a smaller pulley on it . Example: put a pulley for 20 psi on it compared to let's say 12 psi pulley . So at 4500 rpm with a 12 psi pulley it would make 6 psi, to were the with a 20 psi pulley wastegated at 4500 it would make 10-12 psi and hold that to redline . Which equals more hp/tq at lower rpms. But the downfall to it is running the blower pretty hard which would cause sum heat soak. And wear on the blower

That's just an example for the ones who never heard of this
this guy right here knows exactly what hes talking about. +1 to what he said. i will also add that heat soak sucks :(
 

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FBGM
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^+1 on heat soak i hate that i have a black car in summer with a black supercharger
 

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Another forum i am on has multiple wastegated centri S197s. Mainly done with the larger blowers like the f series prochargers
 

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This is a dyno sheet from an unloaded dyno, so the boost comes in full about 1000rpm soon on the street. If you move full boost 1k rpm lower then the tq should peak there too as the tq peaks at the same time as full boost is achieved. This was also a dyno run with a set of "noise" cams that seem to inhibit tq on turbo cars because of the tight LSA(more common that tq numb ers are higher than hp on turbo cars). Those cams stayed in for about 500 miles and is back to stock cams now. Anyway, I would say the tq comes in pretty quick...


Nice looking chart and really nice numbers. Especially as it looks like 10psi of boost if I'm looking at the graph properly. It ramps up quicker than I would have thought. The Precision turbo, is it a ball bearing unit or a regular journal bearing? Anyways, I looked for my dyno sheet, I only have a hard copy of the final street tune and I looked all over for it so I could illustrate what I meant. But if I remember correctly, my torque curve went from 400 ftlbs at about 3k RPM's with a converter that's too loose (stalls at about 3400), and then jumps about 20-30 ftlbs when the converter finally locks. Then stay pretty much flat and starts tailing off around 5K with a pretty steep drop at after 5500. The steep drop, and actually the whole curve, was shaped by changing up the timing. We did this because at the time it was my DD and I wanted to tune it down a bit. First runs ran 465 peak torque and 485 hp. But my point was that a twin screw hits higher torque numbers earlier. It doesn't peak as high as it stays relatively flat through the rpm range. My curve looks more like a Mesa and your turbo curve looks more like a regular mountain. That is what I meant by it lags a bit compared to a PD blower. BUT like I also said your peak numbers, at relatively the same boost, are going to be higher due to less parasitic loss.
I'm an old school car junkie and just really like the nostalgia of the blower sitting on top of the block, but now that I have been tracking it I think I would have been better off with a torque curve more like yours. Even with my superior driving skills and because I'm having a hard time getting used to this DBW throttle, I'm having issue with getting out of the hole quickly and spinning the tires shifting into second I can't seem to get this thing into the 11's. I know the loose converter is part of the issue, but I'm thinking about pulling some timing down low to ease up on the torque early and swapping to a better profile cam to gain a little up top. Which brings up a question about your rebuild. What cam are you going to go with? What kind of numbers are you shooting for and what are you doing to get there? Just curious as now that i have another ride, I'm actually forward to when this motor goes or gets tired so I can also rebuild.
 
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