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Discussion Starter #1
i recently bought a parts car, and it has a 302 block and headers on it with the numbers 289. I'm not sure if the heads are still usable; the last owner left the hood open or something, cause there's sand and hornets nests in some of the ports. But after I fix my car I want to build a motor with the 302. any advice on what i should get next for the block? I want to use the heads that are on it now, but not if theyre no good.
 

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get the block bored .030 over. then get some good pistons and a new crank. you might want to get forged pistons so you can have the option to supercharge in the future!
 

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So is it the headers or the heads that have 289 on them? Either way, those should work on the 302. 289/302/351 parts are somewhat interchangeable.
 

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hey man if it has a good set of headers on it, i will buy them off of you as long as they are for the 1994/95 year, i just put some fox headers on mine and i have an sn95 midpipe and the dam ball and socket doesnt seal right where the headers connect to the midpipe
 

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Sorry for the confusion. You said headers and heads in the first post :confused:.

I would definitely keep those heads. Even if you don't end up using them you could make a profit from them. The 289 was (and still is) one of the most solid small blocks out there. I would find a production number or something on them and do some more research. Chances are they are better than stock 5.0 heads..

As for the bottom end, you have many options. 302, bore it out a tad for a 306, 331 stroker, or 347 stroker.

If you plan on semi-big HP 400-500+ range. I would suggest everything on the inside be FORGED. The last place you want to cheap out on is your motor. Some solid I-beam connecting rods and some flat top pistons (2 or 4 or NO valve reliefs, depending on the amount of compression you want to run). Flat tops are best for N/A setups, 2 valve reliefs are good for nitrous setups, and 4 valve reliefs are best for forced induction. (let the flame war begin..)

Just depends on how far you want to take it. The 302 has a lot of potential from their 220hp~ stock rating :yes.
 

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get the block bored .030 over. then get some good pistons and a new crank. you might want to get forged pistons so you can have the option to supercharge in the future!
why would he need a new crank ?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yeah i would love to stroke it to a 347. that was my bad john, wasnt payin attention. and for the 289's...they WONT come out. my air compressor could take every other bolt off the car BUT the head bolts. any trick to get them out?
 

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Heat them with a torch.

Those heads aren't going to be anything all that great. Unless they're HiPo heads which even then still cant compare to a set of aftermarket heads.

You need to set a HP or track ET goal so people can recommend what would be a good direction to go in. If it's been sitting with the hood off, first thing I would do is get the block to the machine shop and have it checked to make sure the cylinder walls will clean up at .030 and that everything else is in good shape on the block.

JohnGT, for the record, dished pistons make more power than flat-tops at the same compression level. The bottom of the dish is further away from the valve inlet and will create more of a suction during the intake stroke, pulling more air in than a flat-top would. And whoever told you that thing about the valve reliefs is an idiot.
 

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I read it in the latest issue of Muscle mustangs fast fords. They used flat top 2 valve relief pistons for a 347 build. Made 520~hp N/A and 615hp on juice.
 

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Don't believe what you read in those magazines. It's a lot of crap. Valve reliefs have nothing to do with how much power you're going to make or dictate what power adder is ideal.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yeah i plan to stroke it. I want it to make 350 hp easily; its a daily driver. I'm not planning to build it anytime soon. I'm still only 17 with a minimum wage job. I might be able to pay for parts after high school at least.
 
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