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Discussion Starter #1
Motor Mounts can I do this….
Basic hand tools, a jack, and two stands. (Need anything special?)
Engine rocks like a mother and going to replace with prothane engine mounts and tranny mount. Doing some research on the forums and looks like shops would rack me up for 4 hours of labor and that’s ridiculous! Will call around this week but I have done all the maintenance on my car so far and money wise would like to tackle this one.
What am I getting myself into here? Some posts write you do and don’t have to take out the starter and one went with dropping the a/c compressor…advice thanks!

Oh and I can get ramps would that make it easier or do the wheels need to come off?
 

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i put the car on jack stands, remove the front wheels and you can pretty much see them right there. Put a block of wood and jack up on the engine to remove the weight from them. The bolts to the block have some tightness to them. I dont feel they are hard, if you are comfy with hand tools it shouldnt be a problem
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks I will tackle this Saturday then! Where do I jack the engine (k-member, oil pain, or somewhere else?)

Bit of a side note..You move around a lot Doug lol I knew you when you were in Az, then FL, now TN like travel much
 

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Thanks I will tackle this Saturday then! Where do I jack the engine (k-member, oil pain, or somewhere else?)

Bit of a side note..You move around a lot Doug lol I knew you when you were in Az, then FL, now TN like travel much
Front of the oil pan with a block of wood between the jack and oil pan, dont need much, just enough to lift it off the mount.

You might want to find a swivel joint, and some longer extensions, help fight the angles and keep your hands from being shoved in the engine bay.

Fl was for the first part of school, phoenix was for my Volvo training, Fl the second time was at my parents for 2 months job hunting and now Memphis for the new job.
 

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If you are doing it ramps or jack stands:

1. Remove negative battery cable
2. Open the hood
3. Remove the wheels
4. Remove the AC compressor bolts, you don't have to disconnect the hoses.
5. You will need a wobble socket and 12-16 inch long extension for the rear mount bolt on the passenger side, I believe it was a 13mm.

6. Place a block of wood at the front of the block on the oil pan lip and jack the engine up once the nuts have been removed from the motor mount studs.

Once the engine has been jacked up you can remove the motor mount bolts from the block.

When removing the passenger side mount move the AC compressor towards the front of the engine as far as it will go.

The stud bolts where the ground straps attach might need a wrench to hold the stud to keep it from turning.

By the way, this job is a 300% easier when done with the car on a lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. I am going to expand my tool box for this job and pick up some longer extensions and swivel joints. Would be nice if I had access to a lift but I’m borrowing my friends drive way for the day. (I live in an apartment)
Anything special for the tranny mount? Seemsstraight forward use a jack to hold in place take off the bolts put the new one on.
Reps of course to both!
 

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yup, trans mount is that simple.
 

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Buy the wobble set. The wobble's work better than swivel joints.

Without a lift I would just pay a shop or someone to change them for me. I hate working under a car on jackstands. I'm so glad the military base has an auto hobby shop, $4.00 an hour for using a lift. BARGAIN and it saves my back!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Another question:

What socket size do I need? My tool box right now only goes to 19 mm
If I need to pick up a larger socket I want to do it before hand.

Been doing more research and was mentioned on one thread that it was a 21 mm bolt to the k member for the motor mount. However this was for a 97
Thanks!



Little Rant:
Was going to do the install Tuesday everything was perfect. Got time off from work, dads in town, have access to friend’s driveway. But no………. I was quoted the parts would arrive Monday. Called them up after they should have been here and found out they hadn’t even shipped. Apologies were given but doesn’t solve jack. Could go on but this is the tech section.
 

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You need to buy an oil filter, it is easier to remove the oil filter to access the driver side mount.

Also when removing the nut on the studs, the studs may break loose before the nuts.

There's no way in hell I would do this on jack stands laying my back.
 

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its easy on jack stands. 21 for the large nut and I want to say its a 15 or 17 for the 3 on the block
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You need to buy an oil filter, it is easier to remove the oil filter to access the driver side mount.

Also when removing the nut on the studs, the studs may break loose before the nuts.

There's no way in hell I would do this on jack stands laying my back.
Damn...just did an oil change last weekend oh well. Im young, strong and have a good back i'll tought it out. Wouldn't mind have a lift though but who wouldn't. If the stud breaks lose I'd imagine there a hex head on the other side I could put a wrench on. Yes?

its easy on jack stands. 21 for the large nut and I want to say its a 15 or 17 for the 3 on the block
Im going shoping! Should I get a bigger wrench set too I want to say I have 8-15mm and then a 22mm
 

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I wish I could remember clearly, 15 keeps sticking in my head, but I dont remember if thats what it is, or if I thought thats what it was and it was like a 17 or 18.

If you pick up a 17 and 18mm socket youll def be covered. Just make sure its a deep well. Theres a stud/nut set up on the passenger side for a ground strap
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Driver side done passanger side need help.
Hoping I didnt have to drop the starter but I cant get to the last bolt are the two bolts on the bottom of the starter are what hold it in place? or are there more what nereds to be done to do this. Going to drop the ac compressior now and try that bolt one more time before I start taking more **** apart thanks.

This is a a PITA ass job but doable so far only broke one thing so far well not broke more like made a small dent .
 

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theres three starter bolts, the two you see on the bottom and one above it at almost 12 position. shouldnt have to drop the starter to remove the motor mount
 

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i thought there was one bolt that held the mount to the kmember and two that held the mount to the block?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
theres three starter bolts, the two you see on the bottom and one above it at almost 12 position. shouldnt have to drop the starter to remove the motor mount
lol was hitting refreash waiting to see who'd hop on and and was hopeing you would lol thank Ill blow some steam moving the ac out of the way and try that last bolt again.
 

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i thought there was one bolt that held the mount to the kmember and two that held the mount to the block?
three to the block two in front of the mount, one behind it.

Phoenix, what size is are the bolts that hold the mount to the block?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
new problem got everything off and ready to mount the new mount but the stud style bolt for the passanger was taking a lot of torque to screw in after backing it out some shavings (little) came out of the block. calling around for a bolt because this one isnt bad but not perfect so im hoping a freash bolt will solve the problem.

2 bolt sizes 13 mm and 15 mm for the block mount then 21 for the k member
 

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I would just go to a hardware store and find a nut that fits it, run it up and down the bolt a few times, clean up the threads, poor mans way to make a dye.
 
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