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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys - I think I might be answering my own question but when I get an MSD 2-Step, I know I'll have to play around with the RPM I launch at but does anyone have an educated guess on where I should sart...

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01 Gt Vert
Cams, full bolt ons
full weight
28x11.5 QTPs (yes way too much tire but I got them when I had nitrous)
4.10s / TR3650

I was thinking I would start at 4500 and play with it from there depending on if I bog or spin...My dyno sheet is attached for reference on where my power and torque land.
 

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I like boobs!!!
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What trans?
 

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I like boobs!!!
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I'd side step it from 5k. If you decide to spray it you'll probably be saying bye bye to an input shaft or an axle shaft. That might happen regardless. They can only take so much.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'd side step it from 5k. If you decide to spray it you'll probably be saying bye bye to an input shaft or an axle shaft. That might happen regardless. They can only take so much.
I'm not spraying anymore. I would rather have the 2 step to have more consistent launches.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I grenaded my 28 spline diff and axles at stock power levels leaving on drag radials. To find the optimum RPM to set your two step at, adjust your tire pressure then start at a low rpm and work your way up each pass until you find the RPM/tire pressure combo that gives you the best 60 foot.
I'm running QTPs starting at 14psi. I am definitiely a little worried about my axles/diff which is why I went QTPs and still on the stock clutch. I'm sure it won't last forever...seems to be a crap shoot of when they break.

I'll start at a lower RPM and go from there. Probably 4k.
 

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On a 26x10 stiff sidewall MT slick, 4.10 or 4.30 gearing. TR3650 using a Spec 2+ clutch. I had 2-step set at and was launching anywhere from 6200-6800 but normally 6400rpm. All was dependent on starting line conditions. I pre-stage at 4k and bump in at that rpm on line lock. Then stand on throttle soon as I see top amber light up. Input shaft took that beating for 8 years and still straight.

Remember dead hook is bad. Things will break. Not an if, just a when. Try to get car to spin off line no more than 1 tire revolution.

Only ever broke (2) 4.10 ring gear, (1) 4.30 pinion, and twisted & bent axle tube. All from car dead hooking.

---------- Post added at 01:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:53 PM ----------

Forgot to ask are you still using the stock flywheel also? If so keeping launch lower may be better. Play with tire pressure. Should get away with higher tire pressure with lower launch rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
On a 26x10 stiff sidewall MT slick, 4.10 or 4.30 gearing. TR3650 using a Spec 2+ clutch. I had 2-step set at and was launching anywhere from 6200-6800 but normally 6400rpm. All was dependent on starting line conditions. I pre-stage at 4k and bump in at that rpm on line lock. Then stand on throttle soon as I see top amber light up. Input shaft took that beating for 8 years and still straight.

Remember dead hook is bad. Things will break. Not an if, just a when. Try to get car to spin off line no more than 1 tire revolution.

Only ever broke (2) 4.10 ring gear, (1) 4.30 pinion, and twisted & bent axle tube. All from car dead hooking.

---------- Post added at 01:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:53 PM ----------

Forgot to ask are you still using the stock flywheel also? If so keeping launch lower may be better. Play with tire pressure. Should get away with higher tire pressure with lower launch rpm.
I am on a stock replacement iron flywheel and stock-type Valeo clutch. Both very new maybe 5k miles on them at this point. My clutch will have some give to it and the QTPs should help absorb some of the shock as well. I know my rear end will break at some point.

Goof info, man. Thanks!
 
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