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Discussion Starter #1
Well im having this problem with two motors,my last motor (the original one) use to get hot,at the gauge it says NORMAL the needle would hit the M to A part and if im at full throttle,it would hit the A to L part...

Now I have a NEW motor and its doing the same CRAP!Now the first thing to come to mind is,do you have any leaks? I have none Iv check the hoses,radiator,and the waterpump there all fine...Now could it be the thermostat? Maybe but iv changed it a COUPLE of times and it still does it,rite now I have a 180 in there from autozone..

When the T-stat opens,it pushes the water out and then a couple of seconds later the fan turns on like as if its late and its pushing that same water that came out them motor rite back in making it HOTTER and my temps stay there once the fan has been on for a while now the temp drops back on the NORMAL part to the R area but as soon as I get on it,it shoots rite back up to the A and then the L part... I really dont know what it could be,BUT iam running a 96 Mustang V6 radiator but its the same part number for the V6/GT/Cobra motors...

Should I drill the hole on the T-stat to release pressure!?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hmmmm have no idea,mmmm its a 1990 foxbody short block with 95 asseries and topend..I mean its just the shortblock thats a 1990 it has 95 timing cover,water pump front asseries and 95 E7 heads ect... But the water pump is rotating counter clock wise...
 

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If it's a stock or stock replacement pump for a 95 then it's spinning the correct way. Is the radiator clogged maybe? have you bled air out of the system? Should be an allen bolt on your thermostat housing that you can pull out to bleed air out.

Also can't trust a stock gauge. I would get an infared temp gun and hit the coolant running through the radiator to see what the temp is. Or get a mechanical gaige for water temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If it's a stock or stock replacement pump for a 95 then it's spinning the correct way. Is the radiator clogged maybe? have you bled air out of the system? Should be an allen bolt on your thermostat housing that you can pull out to bleed air out.

Also can't trust a stock gauge. I would get an infared temp gun and hit the coolant running through the radiator to see what the temp is. Or get a mechanical gaige for water temp.
Well the radiator isent clogged at all,its fine.It does take a while for warm up but thats it.And when you bleed the air out the system,how would I do it by removing the allen bolt and letting the car run or remove it and fill it from there?I will get the infared temp gun tomorro and let you know what I get..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
???
 

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You need to burp all the air out of the system.

1. Park the car with the nose facing slightly uphill (or jack the front end up).
2. Remove the radiator cap.
3. Start the engine cold and let it idle. The coolant level in the radiator will drop immediately so SLOWLY top it up intermittently to the bottom of the filler neck.
4. Squeeze the upper radiator hose gently to remove any pockets of air.
5. When you no longer see air bubbles and the coolant is rising up the filler neck, replace the radiator cap.
6. Make sure the coolant inside the expansion reservoir is at the FULL COLD level.
7. Go for a minimum 10-minute drive so that the engine reaches normal operating temp.
8. After the drive, let the engine cool down completely (minimum 6 hours) and recheck the level in the overflow reservoir. Top it up as required.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
^^^^ Thanx bro I had a HUGE air pocket not even a bubble lol
 
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