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six shooter
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Discussion Starter #61
Flex plate, fly wheel, bla bla bla... You can tell what I wish was in it...

I'll try to get a picture of it tomorrow. When I looked at it in better light, I could see it was still in the car and in good shape. No worries there, thankfully. Nobody carries the part anyways. I'm assuming it comes pressed into the flex plate at this point.

I spent the entire (work) day cleaning out the cooler lines. They were gross. I'm debating switching to a separate trans cooler on the car since the lines have been botched up. Don't know if I'll do it right now, or as soon as I can after the car is running.

On the upside, someone already hollowed out the cats for me. Unfortunately I left the mid-pipe leaning against a garbage can after I washed some crap off it. It slid and scratched the bumper and poked a hole in the reflector. Not too upset about the reflector as that lens needs to be replaced anyways. The scratch isn't so bad either. Oh well.
 

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When I finally rebuilt my trans I plugged the cooler in the radiator and got the biggest external cooler on the market. It was rated for a 5th wheel (10,000lb+ GWVR or w/e)
 

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six shooter
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Discussion Starter #63
An external cooler is about $15-25 less expensive than direct replacement lines from LMR. I'm not even sure if the LMR lines are 5.0/AOD only, like most things on their website.
 

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six shooter
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Discussion Starter #65
Oh, I have a good idea how the cooler looks inside: death.

I tried cleaning out the lines (and cooler) and it wasn't getting good flow through it. I'm going to have dad order a manual transmission radiator for it when he stops by the body shop to drop my "spare" Ranger hood off for my brother's truck. I'm going to order a separate cooler for the transmission, probably from LMR because the kit appears to be more substantial and inclusive than others I've been looking at. This should make it easier to swap the car to manual in the future, and move this transmission to the wagon.

And for anyone wondering about parts compatibility:
I called up Late Model Restoration about their 1984-93 Mustang Automatic Transmission Cooler Lines, Transmission To Radiator, Pair, Stainless Steel (LRS-MUT1021SC) and the guy went to check with their supplier representative, who also has and automatic 4cyl Mustang, and verified that these lines DO NOT work on the A4LD. I was assuming this was the case, but it's good to have confirmation.


Other than waiting on these parts, the restoration of the car will be a little slower as we're doing a lot of remodeling inside the house so that we can move grandpa in.
 

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I believe I used a hayden unit from the parts store. Ran about $50 IIRC. I liked it.

And you can just plug the existing cooler. I'm running my plugged radiator on my '90 t5 car now.
 

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six shooter
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Discussion Starter #67
Yeah, going to plug the current one for now. I still need the aluminum bracket for the lower radiator hose as well. I grabbed the $60 cooler kit off LMR. It looked a little more complete than similar ones on Summit. Free shipping and should be here Thursday.

Also searched and found that the sending line from the transmission is the lower one, and the return is the upper. That'll help when running lines to the cooler.
 

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six shooter
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Discussion Starter #68
On a side note, there is what I'd guess to be a 3/4" vacuum hose with a bolt stuffed in it coming out from behind the engine. It was tied to where the heater core lines should be running into the firewall. I got under the car and it looks to be coming out of the bottom of the intake manifold. Any idea where that is supposed to connect to?

Also, it looks like something is supposed to bolt to the bottom of the intake manifold, like a bracket, but nothing is there.

I need to see how the heater core hooks up as well. That'll be all I have for a defroster.


I can try to get pictures of what I'm talking about if that helps. I'll also try to use the SVO/truck as reference but they are a little different.
 

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Get pics. The 3/4" hose, is it rather stiff/hard? Sounds like PCV to me, but the routing you described sounds strange. Maybe I'm just reading it wrong...

And what do you mean as per the heater core? You can run your heater hose either way through the bibs through the firewall, if that's what you're asking. Doesn't matter which way it flows through the heater core, as long as the hot coolant flows through it you're good.
 

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six shooter
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Discussion Starter #70
Ok, let's see how this turns out. I'll try to get the one line (may be 1/2", not 3/4") taken in a series of pictures from end to end. The last one will show the extent of my heater lines (just the two bibs sticking out of the firewall). I'll show the random bracket mount looking area towards the end.

Pictures might be large. I'll try to resize them if it's an issue. Excuse the crap editing but it's all I've got to work with.

So the vacuum hose starts on the back of the lower intake manifold, and it's rubber. At about the OSU (I think) it's connected to a metal tube which goes up towards the back of the valve cover. There are mounting holes on this metal tube but it isn't mounted to anything. Then in the third picture you can see where it goes back to a rubber hose and comes out on the exhaust side of the motor, right next to the heater core provisions.






And here's the random hole that looks like there should be a support bracket or something holding it up. It's also on the lower intake manifold.
 

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I'm more familiar with the dual plug N/A motors...gimme a few hours to look at the pics and figure out what's what.

Also, just talked to Matt Culpepper, he says he may have all the hyd. clutch parts. I'll let you know what happens there, told him to go ahead and make sure he has everything and get back to me with a price.
 

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Looks like the water line used to heat the intake. I personally prefer to block them off by modifying the gasket to block the water from entering the intake from the head.
 

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Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh yes. That makes sense. Stupid Ford. Now that you mention it I do recall them, usually see them just plugged at the maniold and the line removed.
 

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This is what I do with mine, red lines indicating a cut, and the green is the piece of aluminum i fab to fit. The use of copious amounts of silicone are required to ensure proper seal. The aluminum should be almost as think as the gasket.
 

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six shooter
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Discussion Starter #75
That makes perfect sense. I'll look into that when I do the valve cover gasket and the other intake gaskets.
I'm assuming that the other end of this line Ts off with the heater core lines then? It runs up right to where they are.

And any guesses what is supposed to bolt to the bottom of the intake?

Also, just talked to Matt Culpepper, he says he may have all the hyd. clutch parts. I'll let you know what happens there, told him to go ahead and make sure he has everything and get back to me with a price.
Awesome. Thanks for keeping an eye out for me.

All the down time on this car would have been better spent on the SVO, which would be running by now for a lot less money. :bang head
 

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Lol, apparently he made a typo. He did offer a hyd bell and clutch for for $10 + shipping though. He has a stack of them but thinks the rest of the hydraulic clutch parts he has are most likely bad. Asked him to try to dig some parts up and let me know.

He'd also like to know why you want the hydraulic clutch. Apparently the cable clutch on his car is just about as easy on you as a hydraulic clutch :dunno
 

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six shooter
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Discussion Starter #77
Just to be different really. If it's not better I'll just sell what I have and pick the cable parts at the junkyard. It would probably be a better idea to make all the cars as close to the same as possible anyways, and less to maintain. I figured since my truck's is so much lighter then the TC one would be too.
 

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six shooter
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Discussion Starter #79
Finally got some help getting the transmission back into the car. Didn't realize until I was putting it back in that there was a missing bell housing bolt. I didn't lose it, it was never there. So I went to the bolt store and got a handful (need for other motors) and got a higher grade (and 15mm instead of 1/2" head), but the shoulder is too long. I can get the car together as two of the bolts have other brackets/straps to hold down. So I have one left to try and find a match for. The top one on the passenger side is fighting me with all the brackets it's supposed to hold.

It's going back together slowly, given time constraints with work, and when weather permits. Also we're still rearranging the house to move in grandpa. Still haven't figured out exactly how I'll run the cooler yet.
 

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six shooter
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Discussion Starter #80
Finally got the transmission all in and bolted up. Checked the torque specs (listed 28-38 ft*lbs) on the torque converter nuts and we only have a torque wrench measured in in*lbs. I was too lazy/dirty to convert it earlier but I needed 336-456 in*lbs. I should probably double check it, but I gave it all I had.

The serpentine belt is sassing me at the moment. The simple things are killing me on this car. I'll take care of that and the battery cables tomorrow. Found a couple other bolts that are missing as well. After all that's done and in, then I'll get the trans cooler mounted. Going to try and seal up the rust I find as much as I can. Can't stop it, but I can slow it down.

I might break down and buy the interior fastener kit... next pay check.
 
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