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Discussion Starter #82
yes. thanks again kev. and just to give kudos where they are deserved kevin shipped it to me express delivery no charge. that I thought was really alright.

I also went ahead and plugged in the spout jumper. it still starts right up but it starts out idling about 1500 then after a bit the idle slows down to about 1000, but if I blip the throttle it idles at 1500 again. I guess I need to do the idle adjustment again. pull the IAC sensor plug. adjust the idle screw manually, disconnect the battery for 20 minutes plug the sensor back in and restart it. hopefully that will sort my idle out a bit. if not I will wait and let the tuner fiddle with it. but heck it is running and it sounds good.
 

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I'm sure you already did this, but have you checked the TPS voltage to see if it's between .95V-1.00V? (I like it a bit tighter than the Ford spec of .94V-1.04V) ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #84
I'm sure you already did this, but have you checked the TPS voltage to see if it's between .95V-1.00V? (I like it a bit tighter than the Ford spec of .94V-1.04V) ;)
not yet. how do you adjust the tps voltage. all this efi stuff is pretty new to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #85

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Discussion Starter #87
I sold the old engine, and a wiring harness and some other parts I had left over from this swap on craigslist yesterday so 400.00 to spend on new stuff. I already ordered the next modification. I know I should take it over and have it dyno'd before doing anything much else, but it is running and I am not going to drive it till spring anyway so I might as well start the next project while I am waiting right? so I decided to put a sport bar in it. I like the look of the roll bar in your can anthony but I don't really want a true rollbar. I found a sport bar on late model restoration that works with a 90 style rear quarterpanel and I found a good set of 90 quarter panels on ebay. so I am going to go ahead and do it. I plan to also continue my interior conversion to black. so I will paint the quarterpanels black before installing them. sometime next year I will do the doorpanels and just slowly keep working on the interior once I get everything tuned. but when I saw those quarterpanels on ebay I just had to jump on them they are hard to find.
 

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That's okay, it's your car. I actually like the looks of the other aftermarket "bar" setups. I had to go with a cage since I drag race at NHRA sanctioned tracks. 13.49 or faster & you have to have a cage in a 'vert.... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #89
well those nice quarter panels I bought on ebay were not that nice in person.:piss2: the speaker grill mounting tabs were completely broken off. there were several screw holes where someone had obviously tried to just screw it on to fix it. anyway I looked at ways of fixing them but finally decided it wasn't worth the effort so I sent them back for a refund and found another set that look better. significantly more expensive however. :70: anyway these are black, but they look like someone painted them with gloss black paint. I will probably have to strip them and repaint them with a satin black to make them look better. I plan to replace the door panels and some other parts this summer. and possibly repaint the dash when I pull it apart to replace the heater core. I bought a bypass tube to just bypass the heater core until I get around to fixing that. since I don't drive this car in the winter that won't be a big hardship, but I do sometimes turn the heater on in the evenings when I run around with the top down. makes it a bit more comfortable so I do plan to fix it.

I also scheduled my dyno session for march 6. I have a conference in February in a nice vacation destination so I am taking the family and extending my time a bit so we can have a little vacation. the conference is 5 days and with traveling etc. I am taking 10 days off work so I want to wait until march to do the dyno. I know chasing numbers on a dyno is dumb, but I really want to see at least 300 at the wheels. I think that is realistic but we will have to see.:baller::baller::baller:
 

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I wish I had the stones to build an engine. Tried it about 10 years ago. Ended up lunching about 4k in parts because we had no idea what we were doing. Great thread man.
 

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There was only one way to reset the idle on my car that worked correctly. And it did not involve the iac. Stop screw,feeler gage 0.010 , and then one more full turn, then check tps 92-98 v , unplug batt reset computer Start car let idle for a few mins. The trick is if you mess with the idle set screw you always have to recheck the tps. And reset computer. Any way that's the only way mine would idle correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
I wish I had the stones to build an engine. Tried it about 10 years ago. Ended up lunching about 4k in parts because we had no idea what we were doing. Great thread man.
I am pretty fortunate. My Dad was a mechanic for a lot of years and has built tons of engines. all carbereted of course he got out of mechanic work about 20 years ago. anyway I wanted to build my first engine on my 65 so I had him watch me. I wanted to do as much of it as I could. since then we have built several more. the one for my daughters 67, this one, one for my 90 jeep. the key is to learn everything you can before hand. double check everything, and if something doesn't look or sound right stop and look at it again. but it really is not that hard. buy good parts. have a machine shop you trust do the stuff you don't know how to do. like My dad has a cam bearing installation tool and we used it to put the bearings in the jeep engine but I have had the machine shop do that and install the freeze plugs on my mustang engines. keep it clean and check everything. one thing also if you look at sbfbuilding.com it is a website put together by woody from fordstrokers.com it is a pay site but he has a lot of videos that show guys like us how to do a lot of things that are needed to build an engine. if you want to build one you might want to look into that site.

---------- Post added at 12:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:41 PM ----------

There was only one way to reset the idle on my car that worked correctly. And it did not involve the iac. Stop screw,feeler gage 0.010 , and then one more full turn, then check tps 92-98 v , unplug batt reset computer Start car let idle for a few mins. The trick is if you mess with the idle set screw you always have to recheck the tps. And reset computer. Any way that's the only way mine would idle correctly.
I read on another site something similar. but they told me to unhook the iac then set the idle set screw manually. then reset the computer and hook it back up. then I set the tps after I did all that and reset the computer again. it seems to be idling ok now but I need to get it out and drive it to see. thanks for the advice though. I am not sure how you would use a feeler gauge to set that set screw. my car would not idle at all until I adjusted that out to increase the idle enough to keep it running. in other words if the set screw was not touching the idle would be too low and it would die.


here is another question for you guys. I was trying to set my tv cable because it was shifting wrong the only time I tried to drive it, and I found that little plastic bushing was broken. so I ordered a new metal one from late model restoration and it was too big. it would not fit into my throttle body lever. I wasn't sure what was going on. I ended up just chucking a punch in my drill and sliding the bushing onto that and using it like a lathe. just spin the bushing hold a fine tooth triangle file on it at as perpendicular as I could and checking frequently. I got it machined down so it fits properly but is this a problem other people have run into?

well. I went back and read the reviews on that bushing and apparently it is a common problem so I guess I am not alone. but reading the way others fixed it I think my way is better so if anyone else has to do this you might want to try it.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
ok next installment on finding new ways to toss money down the abyss that is my mustang habit.

I really like the look of a sportbar in a convertible and I had been wanting to find one for a while. I found out that latemodel restoration sells them now, but on there website they say that you have to buy the 90-93 interior quarter panels in order to make it work. So I found a set on ebay. I ordered them and when I got them they were broken up and just generally a mess so I sent them back and found another set. so I bought those. in the mean time the bar arrived and I opened the instructions and found instructions for installation in an 89 mustang. so I decided I would go ahead and install them using the stock 89 quarters just to show it can be done. and then I will probably send the new ones back also.

first I had to repair my quarters. one of the mounting corners was broken. I saw that plastic staple repair system from eastwood on a recent episode of trucks and decided I could do something similar.


I took a piece of wire from my mig welder and positioned as above.

then I used my soldering gun and held heat on the wire until the wire melted into the plastic.


that is of course under the panel. on the top I used the soldering iron to melt the plastic and merge the two pieces. then I sanded the plastic down and coated it with jb weld. once it hardens I will sand it down and paint it.


after that I cut the template out of the instructions and carefully marked it on the panel and drilled a 1 3/4 inch hole.




then make a slit in the vinyl and peel it back.


then you are supposed to cut a 3/4 inch strip to the edge of the panel after removing the dew wipes. I found it needs to be a bit bigger. at the end you are supposed to put that piece back and glue the vinyl back down. I found that it was easier if I riveted a small piece of plastic to the removed piece to hold it in place.


next you have to remove a couple bolts from the inside of the vehicle just behind the door latch. position the bar and loosely tighten the new bolts in place.


then comes the hard part. position the panel around the sport bar and put the previosly removed piece back in place after tightening the anchor bolts on the sports bar.

then you have to put the new dew wipes back in place. that is difficult. but once I got it into position and replace all the screws. put the seats back in and this is the result.



 

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Never been a fan of those sport bars, but that's not why I am posting. I think it's very cool that you are taking the time to show exactly how you did everything on your car. It makes it a lot easier to do for someone else. And as you have mentioned previously in the thread, that's also how you have been able to do things that you don't know how to do. I think its cool. I never did that. Partly because when I started working on cars, digital cameras simply weren't common. Now every single phone, device, etc has a bada$$ camera in it, which makes it easier. Props to you though for taking the time to do it, explain it, post it, and follow up on it. Something I just don't do enough of.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
when I started this thread I guess I started it in the wrong section. maybe a moderator could move it to the project section. I did not really plan to do much with it when I got it so I did not think to put it in the project section.

but anyway just to update my progress a bit.

I got my monster in a box kit on friday. it has all the correct seals, new bushings and bearings, clutches and steels. pretty much everything I needed



UPS didn't get there until about 6:00 and I had to leave for my conference saturday morning early, but we wanted to get started anyway.

a few years ago when we built the transmission for my daughter and I was still finishing my garage I built this table specifically to rebuild her transmission. I used it again this time it really works very well for my purposes. I looked into buying one of those commercial transmission fixtures but they cost over 200.00 mine cost me a couple 2x4's and some screws.




the hole in the bench is for putting the output shaft etc. through, again makes it easier and there is a pan underneath to catch the dripping atf.





my computer with my how to rebuild your AOD dvd in it to step by step remind me how to do it. and it gives all the specs etc.

here is the center support from the transmission it was looking kind of beat up and rough so I got a new one from WIT transmission parts. we replaced all the bushings and all the torrington bearings during the build. since the planetary gear set is not really user serviceable I got a new one of those from WIT as well.



the clutches and steels were looking really bad, I am amazed I had not realized how bad the transmission was before I started building my engine. this should have been my first project.



this is one of the tools I bought to rebuild sarah's transmission. I suppose you could use c clamps to do this but this tool works very well. I bought it from the same place I got the dvd.



and this is my lip seal installation set. this kit is pretty much essential for this job.






we got most of it done. we got the front pump installed and at first we could not seem to get the total endplay adjusted properly. once we put it all together and inserted the small input shaft and checked that everything was turning right we rechecked it and everything was in spec. so the main rebuild is buttoned up. I also bought a tci constant pressure valve body that I need to install when I get back, and a new chrome pan with a draing plug. we could have finished but it was after 1:00 am and I needed to get up at 6 to get to the airport so we decided to just stick the pan back on temporarily and finish when I get back.
 

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Nice work man! I took an auto transmission rebuilding course at a local college while I was serving in the Military many moons ago. To say it paid for itself rather quickly is an understatement.... ;) I'm kinda anxious to see when you dial it in, what it dyno's, & what it runs at the track..... :) Us'n id-git drag racers with 'verts juss whanna know.....
 

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Discussion Starter #97
yeah I am anxious to see it run under it's own power again too lol. especially since this whole escapade started because I had a leaking rear main seal lol.

I doubt I will get it to a racetrack though. I am not even sure where the nearest one is. I am building this car as a hot rod daily driver. that is why some of my engine components were chosen so this car will reliably run on 87 octane if needed and still get me to and from work. I just want it to be fast enough to not tarnish the foxbody reputation around these parts. actually I just wanted to build a stroker.

having said all that however I would like to see what it would do in the quarter though. now that I have been watching your thread and a few others on here. I have heard there is a dragstrip in omaha, I may have to check it out after all. but I don't want to have to put in a full cage. as cool as yours looks I would like to keep my styling bar.:tomato
 

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Discussion Starter #98
I guess I need to back up and do a bit of explaining here. if you look closely at the picture of my car with the styling bar in my driveway you can see a pool of transmission fluid under it. now the distance from my garage to the point I took the picture is only about 30 yards. so anyway there was no leaking in the garage. I had driven the car a few miles before this just to feel it go, but that day I just drove it to the end of the drive to take some pictures and i was going to take it for a drive, but I saw a bunch of transmission fluid under the car. none in the garage it just started while it was sitting there for the picture. so I drove it back to the garage. that was when I determined I had torn that front seal when I put the engine in. initially I hoped to just replace the front seal and put it back in, but the more I looked at things the worse it looked. I really had no idea this trans was in this bad of shape. when I pulled the pan there was black crap in the fluid. then I decided to replace just the front pump so I bought an NOS front pump and pulled the front pump. I looked at a couple of the clutches in the front of the trans and they seemed ok so again trying to cheapout at this point so I tried it. well once I put the new pump in the trans would not turn over properly. so I pulled it apart again and found that one of the torrington bearings had completely grenaded and the direct clutches were completely shot. So I guess I should be thankful I tore that seal or the trans would have failed probably catastrophically in the very near future. anyway I initially ordered a tci super rebuild kit but it did not have any of the bearings or bushings and the lip seals for the front pump and the reverse drum would not fit so I was really unhappy, I had already started soaking the clutches so I could not send those back but summit took the rest of it back. I have to say summit is awesome they do a great job getting my parts to me and there return policy is great. anyway I decided after doing some research to order a monster in a box kit. I had looked at buying a tci streetfighter or a monster transmission ready to go. that would probably have been the best approach but I really wanted to do it myself. I like the idea of the tci constant pressure t-v valve so I bought the tci valve body and the monster in a box rebuild kit for the rest of it.

anyway that is how I got from getting ready for the dyno trip to tearing apart the transmission. I am out of town this week for a conference (it is much warmer here so I am not crying much) but I will hopefully have a chance to get it back together as soon as I get back. I would like to drive it a bit to work the bugs out before I dyno it.
 

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I applaud the "wanting to figure it out & do a little trial & error" yourself mentality. Takes guts, a willingness to learn, & drive.... All positive qualities i like to see at work & in play...;)
 

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Discussion Starter #100
thanks Tony I am now thinking about suspension mods. First I have got to get the trans done and get it on the road. I bypassed the heater core for the time being, but I ordered the new one and the flow limiter as well as a new center console lid and a new bbk cold air intake yesterday. I got my maf back from pro m. I had to send it to them to have them flow it to get my 9 point transfer sheet.

right now I am at a conference soaking up the warmth and sunshine and not missing the foot of snow on the ground at my place.

It has given me a lot of time to surf this website. I sure hope the snow melts quickly. I am not sure how I am going to get my trailer out of the drift it is in right now to haul my car to the dyno place. I sure don't want to drive it.

btw, do you know who the mods of this section are? I would really like to move this thread to the project section. this started out as a simple introduction to the 5.0 guys because I really never intended to mod this car, but I just can't leave well enough alone, and I love working on mustangs, almost more than driving them.
 
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