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Discussion Starter #1
Took the Mach to the track yesterday just to see where it sits before I drop it off at the shop in 2 weeks. I know the autos are a lot slower than the sticks and from what I've read they run 13.8-13.9 @ ~102mph stock. It was slick and drag radial night so the track prep was top notch. I think I made the mistake of putting a dr on a stock auto Mach because it did not help me at all and my times didn't even come close to what it "should" run. Car is very stock with the only mods being welded in Flowmasters and Steeda sport lowering springs. The car sat on 17x9 front Mach black wheels with 255/45/17 rubber and 15x8 Weld Prostars with 275/50/15 BFG drag radials with 19psi.

Out of 3 runs fastest 60' and 1/4 pass was:

60': 2.150
330': 6.154
1/8: 9.323
MPH: 78.81
1000': 12.011
1/4: 14.296
MPH: 98.73

It just couldn't get off the line quick enough and didn't have top end pull. The 2.15 60ft came from brake torquing to 1100 rpm and then hammering it. The car did not spin or bog on any of the passes. I was expecting a 13.6-13.8 out of it because of the drag radials, but it was a dog off the line. Basically running in stock GT territory.

So comparing this to my blown GT, at ~3,475lbs it is already 40lbs heavier than my GT with longtubes, intercooled centri blower setup, Cobra front brakes, full length frame connectors, and driveshaft safety loop. If I could've somehow got it to do a 1.90 60' it might have ran a 13.80.

This was the first time for me going down the track in an auto. Boy is it boring! lol Didn't know what to do with myself for the next 12 seconds after the car got moving.

I'm hoping that in a month it will be a completely different animal. Circle D 4c 3800 stall torque converter, BCA modified valve body, VRS o/r x pipe, and intercooled Vortech V1 S at ~11psi should wake this thing up.
 

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Don't feel too bad about your ET's, that 98.73 MPH is saying the car will run right at 13.6 if you can get it to leave harder.

Was 1100 the highest you could hold it against the brake?

When the traction is good you want to stall has hard as you can against the brake to cut the best 60' but if its only stalling at 1100 that's why your 60 is slow.

As you already figured out, if the Mach autos run a 13.6 you would need a 60' in the range of 1.9 to hit that time.

The Circle D will make a big difference, mine has a 3400 stall speed and I can foot brake the car to around 2500 to 2600 RPM, you'll be able to go probably 400 RPM higher than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Don't feel too bad about your ET's, that 98.73 MPH is saying the car will run right at 13.6 if you can get it to leave harder.

Was 1100 the highest you could hold it against the brake?

When the traction is good you want to stall has hard as you can against the brake to cut the best 60' but if its only stalling at 1100 that's why your 60 is slow.

As you already figured out, if the Mach autos run a 13.6 you would need a 60' in the range of 1.9 to hit that time.

The Circle D will make a big difference, mine has a 3400 stall speed and I can foot brake the car to around 2500 to 2600 RPM, you'll be able to go probably 400 RPM higher than that.
Im not too worried about the times. First pass it went 99.56mph. I didnt test how much it can actually hold against the brake. Just wanted to get it up higher than the 600rpm it idles at. Im hoping that with the converter i can just flash it instead of dealing with holding it against the brake.
 

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If the track is good and your tires are hooking well you will always run quicker 60's and ET's by stalling against the brake as high as you can.

Flashing it from idle is a last resort if the car isn't hooking up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If the track is good and your tires are hooking well you will always run quicker 60's and ET's by stalling against the brake as high as you can.

Flashing it from idle is a last resort if the car isn't hooking up.
How about a 2 step on a switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If the track is good and your tires are hooking well you will always run quicker 60's and ET's by stalling against the brake as high as you can.

Flashing it from idle is a last resort if the car isn't hooking up.
How about a 2 step on a switch?
Eh...seems too complicated. I'll have to mess with the footbrake but i know many have had good results by just flashing the converter off the line.
 

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Unfortunately without a transbrake a 2 step won't help you.

Your stall speed against your footbrake won't increase with a 2 step, since its the brakes that are holding the car.

If they will only hold 2500 RPM then it doesn't make any difference if your hit that 2500 RPM with or without a 2 step on, 2500 RPM is as high as you'll be able to go.

No doubt you can run a quick ET flashing from idle but if the car's hooking hard it will run a quicker 60 and quicker ET stalling against the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Was 1100 the highest you could hold it against the brake?
Did a brake torque test on it in the alley today. Tires start spinning at 1500rpm. On a sticky track and tire maybe it would hold a few hundred rpm more.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Blown, what shop you using to mod the Mach?
Hans at Deans Performance. Have been using him since 2008. Does great work and you will not find a comparable shop that is less expensive than him. Im going to give Mike a try for the tune.
 

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Did a brake torque test on it in the alley today. Tires start spinning at 1500rpm. On a sticky track and tire maybe it would hold a few hundred rpm more.
If you want raise your footbrake stall speed there is a trick footbrake drag racers use that helps.

It turns out that the lower cost organic disc pads have more friction when cold than the more popular ceramic metallic and semi-metallic pads so if you put them in the rear you'll get a little higher footbrake stall speed.

On our cars the entry cost level Motorcraft BR65B rears are organic, I put them in and it got me about 200 RPM more braked stall speed.

Organic pads have good stopping capability when they aren't too hot but with multiple heavy stops they will fade as they get hot but for how I use the car that's not a factor.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Did a brake torque test on it in the alley today. Tires start spinning at 1500rpm. On a sticky track and tire maybe it would hold a few hundred rpm more.
If you want raise your footbrake stall speed there is a trick footbrake drag racers use that helps.

It turns out that the lower cost organic disc pads have more friction when cold than the more popular ceramic metallic and semi-metallic pads so if you put them in the rear you'll get a little higher footbrake stall speed.

On our cars the entry cost level Motorcraft BR65B rears are organic, I put them in and it got me about 200 RPM more braked stall speed.

Organic pads have good stopping capability when they aren't too hot but with multiple heavy stops they will fade as they get hot but for how I use the car that's not a factor.
Oh this was meant for me? Lol i saw it in another thread. I'll see how it does. Right now the brakes dont seem to be the greatest. There is probably 50% pad life but the pedal almost goes to the floor and it doesnt stop on a dime. The GT stops much better with the 13's up front and Brakemotive ebay rotors and ceramic pads that are 3 years old.
 

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Don't feel bad. Hell my first outing with my 5 speed Mach 1 I managed a 15.05 spinning like hell with street tire BFG KDW's. I really need radials and more practice for sure. I cant remember my MPH. Id like to get a set of 4.10's and upgrade the axles as well before I try again. I might throw the stock rear springs back in as well. Im sure the Eibach springs aren't helping either.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Finally got the car back from the shop. It was there all winter which worked out well as I wouldn't have been driving it anyway. On a base/start up tune now until Friday. The Circle D 4c converter is nice an tight for normal street driving. Can't even tell there is a converter in it. The BCA modified valve body is as smooth as stock. Can't wait to see what it does at WOT after the car gets tuned. Told Darrin to build it for smooth and comfortable street driving and balls to the wall at WOT. Some pics below during install.

Big TruCool 40,000 gvw trans cooler painted black.



Tranny cooler and Procharger 3 core mounted.





Engine shot.



On the GT this blower setup made 12psi at 6150rpm. Guessing it will make 11psi on the Mach. Will try to limit the rwhp to 450.
 
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