I guess Bo's Stage 3 cam? Bo doesn't list full cam specs, just valve lift, you have to buy the cam I guess or ask someone who runs it. Bo's stage 3 is going to require some additional head work at .550 lift and possibly some longer stem valves for correct geometry or an offset spring retainer depending on what else is done. Once you're in the .550 lift range the accompanying loads and stresses jump up quite a bit, not really ideal on a road race engine which see's sustained rev's, hence my cam suggestion.
In any case, with 185 HP Eric will be blowing past the bottom 3 NASA spec classes; Miata, BMW E30 and spec 944, which are all running less than 165 HP. He just needs to get the weight down below 2400 lbs. It's gonna be a fun ride.
You guys are getting me sidetracked - I need to finish up the chassis first. Don't think I want to build (spend) a 7500 rpm motor the first go 'round. I've been eyeballing OHC's Speedway parts list for a while and will probably move more along that route. Weight will be important, curious to see where it ends up. Main issue is going to be the weight of the driver...
Sorry, not trying to bog you down. Mike and I are just throwing out some ideas for you. I am a NASA racer from, well its inception back when it was still the CA Capri club. What you have there is plenty adequate for a track day car already. Honestly, I would keep it simple for now and just throw out the standard weight reducing items like; interior, HVAC, bumpers and anything else you don't need and call it good for now, but you're not going to like the car very much with just 100 HP in it.
The great thing about the 2.3, is that once you get past the EFI fuel system with a carb, it responds very well to classic mods. If you were to just do the most basic mods, like milling the head .100-110" swapping in this cam Speedway 2.3 Ford Hydraulic Cam, 4000-7200 RPM - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop which is the hydraulic lifter version of the one I posted earlier and installing the stiffer springs I mentioned + the exhaust. You could expect 150-160 HP from your otherwise stock engine, which can take a real beating as long as it stays cool. You will need at a minimum; a carb, manifold and distributor from any 82' or older 2300 equipped car.
I'm just kidding around. The engine is just sitting there and it's tempting to start messing with it just to do something different but I'm trying to stay focused on the chassis. Still lots to be done there.
I did a few experiments with the system about 4 or 5 months ago, but like a lot of my projects, I fell short on time and money and shifted my attention towards some engineering jobs that payed money. It does seem to work, although you have to tension the belt manually. In order for the system to work well, I need to address a few aspects of the actuation system. I tried several actuators, before building my own from scratch. I had it tied into the power steering pump. A Solenoid Operated Directional Control Valve was used to actuate it, via a relay and RPM switch. If you could source all of the parts cheaply and had some basic fabrication skills, it might be a worthwhile project.
• I used a slider cam which was re-ground to 230/230 Duration @.050 Lift , with the gross lift set at .485”
I quickly found that the cam timing transition point was critical with this cam and I never really got it quite right. The engine initially had a huge power dip halfway through its RPM range, until it transitioned.
I degree’d it all over the map and fiddled with the RPM switch in an effort to find a happy spot :headscratcher:. I made it much better, but need to play with it a bit more. It does work, the car idles fairly smooth and once it transitions, it pulls hard up to 7500 RPM. Driving around town it feels very close...errr closer to a stock 2.3
I wish I had half the knowledge you do, I can think of stuff like that, but have none of the required application process to make my ideas work, sorry for the thread jacking, but its been a while since OHC has been on here in any kind of force.
Hey guys im looking to build a 2.3 for a race car, most motors ive found are fuel injected 2.3s, can i take the 8 plug head off, switch it with 4 plug from an older model and run carburetor and do away with all computer and stuff,
Been researching engine swaps for my 1957 Austin Healey 100-6. Thinking about a 2.3 turbo with a T-5 transmission.
Lots to digest. Use an 87-88 Thunderbird 2.3 Turbo, Mustang SVO, Ranger roller rockers, Duratec etc??. Can anyone point me in a direction? What is the best combination of engine...
Well this is a shot in the dark since this section is pretty dead, but hopefully there's one or two lurkers out there that could help.
Basically I still have my 88 2.3 LX for shits and giggles. I've got some parts laying around the garage and I'm curious what I can do, especially in regards to...
I have a Ranger 2.5 intake. Motor is stock. Aside from UDP headers and exhaust and 17lb Bosch injectors. Has an SVO 5spd swap and 3.73 gears. I'd like to have it ported before installing it and half shaft the TB. In the future i would like to step up to a 2.5 ported head as well. Question is do...
I really hate having to swing my leg under the wheel when I get in . Wife doesn't mind but I do . Especially if making frequent stops . If I get a column from a 5spd car will I have a problem with not having the A/T lock out ? I drove around with an automatic column on my 5spd Jeep for years...