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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey I have a SWR-1242D 12" Type-R Subwoofer and I was wondering what type of Amplifier I should get with this?

Any suggestions?

Thanks
 

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The Power Handling Capacity (RMS) for that sub is 500W and the Peck RMS is 1500W, Your gonna want to buy an amp that if you ever decide to upgrade you can just turn up the gain and such, Kenwood - X1200M , that is a very good amp, it powers my two 12inch JL W3V3 great! Just dont have all the settings all the way up and you'll be fine
 

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The Power Handling Capacity (RMS) for that sub is 500W and the Peck RMS is 1500W, Your gonna want to buy an amp that if you ever decide to upgrade you can just turn up the gain and such, Kenwood - X1200M , that is a very good amp, it powers my two 12inch JL W3V3 great! Just dont have all the settings all the way up and you'll be fine
+1.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I'm just going to stick with one sub and that amp is a little out of price range =/. Is their any other good sub that is $200 or below that matches my sub?
 

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Just because the speakers can handle 500 Wrms, it doesn't mean will continue to make more noise as you push them that hard. In a sealed box the subs may pretty much max out at 200 Wrms.

W/ subs in a sealed box (which is most common), there is a diminishing return for more and more power. Buy a decend amp that you can afford, matches impedance, and listen for distortion/clipping. Don't turn it up that high and you won't blow anything. Granted, there COULD be more potential but it'll work and you'll be able to afford it.
 

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500 Wrms is the Optimal for that sub 1500 Wrms is breaking point
 

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The Power Handling Capacity (RMS) for that sub is 500W and the Peck RMS is 1500W, Your gonna want to buy an amp that if you ever decide to upgrade you can just turn up the gain and such, Kenwood - X1200M , that is a very good amp, it powers my two 12inch JL W3V3 great! Just dont have all the settings all the way up and you'll be fine
+2
 

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500 Wrms is the Optimal for that sub 1500 Wrms is breaking point
You have your numbers right, but your terminology is incorrect. You only use RMS when talking about the optimal output of the speaker before it starts losing reliablity. RMS should not be used when quoting the peak power.

Therfore, the Speak was 500 Watts RMS and 1500 Watts Peak.


Now, that amp is just a tad to powerful for that sub. On a 4Ohm load it produces 800 Watts RMS. Thats 300 Watts over the reccomended wattage for that sub.

Plus, its a Dual 4Ohm sub. Good luck wiring a Dual 4Ohm sub to produce a 4Ohm load. The only way to wire it would be 8Ohm or 2Ohm. That amp puts out 1200 Watts RMS at 2 Ohms... way to much for that sub.
 

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Now, that amp is just a tad to powerful for that sub. On a 4Ohm load it produces 800 Watts RMS. Thats 300 Watts over the reccomended wattage for that sub.

Plus, its a Dual 4Ohm sub. Good luck wiring a Dual 4Ohm sub to produce a 4Ohm load. The only way to wire it would be 8Ohm or 2Ohm. That amp puts out 1200 Watts RMS at 2 Ohms... way to much for that sub.
What's the big deal if the amp is too powerful for the sub? It's not like the amp is going to be supplying that power all the time. The amp is only going to supply the amount of power the speaker needs. As long as he doesn't turn it up past distortion, he won't blow the sub.
 

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What's the big deal if the amp is too powerful for the sub? It's not like the amp is going to be supplying that power all the time. The amp is only going to supply the amount of power the speaker needs. As long as he doesn't turn it up past distortion, he won't blow the sub.
Or you could go ahead and buy a amp that CAN'T blow the sub, even at full power. Safe guards are good. Plus, an amp that at its lowest Ohm ratting hits 300watts rms over the highest rms for the sub is not a good idea... period.

The amp I linked meets his price range as well, so its a win win.
 

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Or you could go ahead and buy a amp that CAN'T blow the sub, even at full power. Safe guards are good. Plus, an amp that at its lowest Ohm ratting hits 300watts rms over the highest rms for the sub is not a good idea... period.

The amp I linked meets his price range as well, so its a win win.
But what if he buys another sub or a different sub in the future? They he's stuck buying another amp b/c that one was BARLY powerful enough for his sub or underpowering his subs.
 

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Ive never bought an amp that was rated over my sub's power and I have never had any issues. I personally think its a bad idea to buy an amp thats pushing more power simply because you are walking the line of overpowering the sub, and blowing it... resulting it even MORE money since you have to replace a sub now.

Theres no reason for the amp I linked to not be a good choice. Alpine's amps are top quality (I have owned a ton of them), it fits his price range, and it powers his subs right at what he needs.

Plus, you know everyone is tempted to turn that volume knob up as high as they can on occasion. I think the peace of mind that you "can't" blow the sub eaisily is important.
 

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Ive never bought an amp that was rated over my sub's power and I have never had any issues. I personally think its a bad idea to buy an amp thats pushing more power simply because you are walking the line of overpowering the sub, and blowing it... resulting it even MORE money since you have to replace a sub now.

Theres no reason for the amp I linked to not be a good choice. Alpine's amps are top quality (I have owned a ton of them), it fits his price range, and it powers his subs right at what he needs.

Plus, you know everyone is tempted to turn that volume knob up as high as they can on occasion. I think the peace of mind that you "can't" blow the sub eaisily is important.
If you continue to turn it up something will blow. Maybe it won't be the sub but it could be the amp. Ultimately, if you're dumb and keep turning it up something will fry.

Also, it could still be the sub that blows. Amps are rated at a level of THD. They can provide more continious power, but the distortion is out of spec.

You're right, if you're an idiot and keep cranking it you will blow the sub. But if you have half a brain and stop cranking it up when you hear distortion, there won't be any problems w/ a 3000Wrms amp on a 500Wrms sub.

I'm not saying anything about the amp you suggested. I'm just saying there's no harm in having an amp that's more powerful than the speaker can handle if you don't drive it into distortion.
 

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From my teachings you should never get an amp way over the rms of your subs, period. I could have been told wrong, who knows. If you can get one way over the RMS ratting, and keep it working by not turning it up very loud (gain, ect), then good idea for future improvements,

I just always suggest giving yourself a safe guard, and to me a amp that is ratted right at your speaker's level is a safe guard. Just a personal touch I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the info guys. Yeah I talked to Crutchfield a few days ago and they recommended the same sub that you mentioned, the Alpine MRP-M500. They said it was the perfect match =]
 

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Buying an amp that is "too powerful" isnt dumb, its rather smart when you think in terms of money, you wont have to upgrade amps when you upgrade subs, if you ever do, so you never take a loss on selling a used amp. simply just ajust the power acording to the sub, I think that is the most smart thing to do, I learned this after about my 4th upgrade on subs, I got sick of taking losses on amps. Its your money tho, and yes, that Alpine AMP would work geart, I have it hooked up to my one 12ich Type S in my pickup :p
 
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