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Discussion Starter #1
I am unsure of a couple of things after I plugged my SCT tuner in and took my car for a test drive just now. Mainly my concerns are regarding the WOT shift points for the transmission. I have 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 all set at 0. My option are anywhere from -3 mph and 7 mph. Could someone please help me understand this and what it correlates to?

This car is driven roughly 3 times a week in daily stop n go traffic. I have the shift pressure for all gears set at 20 but it shifts 1-2 at 3,000 rpms just lightly on the gas like I would be in traffic and I don't want that. I should take it down to like 15, right?

One huge concern is now if I abruptly let off the gas or go to ease into the pedal again with my foot, my transmission feel like it's moving around or clunking or something.

Another thing of many here....What should I set the Rev limiter to? I have it at 5600 right now and it's redlining....5400 should be safe I would assume. Also, I have my driving idle set at like 570 or something just above 500...its seems too low for my liking, what should it typically be set it?

I can plug the SCT in as many times as I want and change things around, right? Or do I only have a certain number of times I can plug it in and tweek something?

Any and all help appreciated here gents. Any make it quick!

Thanks,
Sean
 

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You can load and modify the tunes as many times as you want. The shiftpoint adjustments in the handheld are for wide open throttle shiftpoints only. They have no affect on normal part throttle driving. To adjust part throttle shifpoints you need to take it to a custom tuner or use an email based tuning service like BAMA or Trick Tuners. The entire shift schedule need to be modified in order to make those adjustments. As far as pressure during shifts, I wouldn't max that out if I were you. If you want firmer shifts, you should look into a shift kit of a j-modded valve body. If modifying a valve body isn't something you are comfortable with, I have a few valve bodies laying around and I'm sure we could work out a deal for one that has been either shift kitted or j-modded.

As for the rev limit, just set it at 6,100. You don't need to shift higher than 6,000rpm while running stock cams, so revving higher than that will not be beneficial in your case.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I understand what your saying, but I am referring to the WOT shift points. What do I need those to be set at? Just leave them at 0 or what? Well, like I said, I have the rev limiter set to 5,600 and its bouncing off the rev limiter like no ones business so I need to go in a re-set it. I am going to go plg her in and see what I can do.

Other than the shift points, firmness, octane, etc., what else should I be looking into changing? Anythign with spark or WOT fuel/ air, egr, or anything else?
 

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I understand what your saying, but I am referring to the WOT shift points. What do I need those to be set at? Just leave them at 0 or what? Well, like I said, I have the rev limiter set to 5,600 and its bouncing off the rev limiter like no ones business so I need to go in a re-set it. I am going to go plg her in and see what I can do.

Other than the shift points, firmness, octane, etc., what else should I be looking into changing? Anythign with spark or WOT fuel/ air, egr, or anything else?
A little more info on the car should help, like what mods do you have like did you do gears recently? did your trans just start doing this recently ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
LT's, mid pipe, mufflers, auto tranny with stiffer springs and tranny cooler. Tranny has never done it but I think its nothing to worry about.

Guys, my main questions are as follows: Why is my car bouncing off the rev limiter when I step on it in any gear? I have the Rev Limiter set to the LOWEST rpms it will let me go, 5,500. It won't go lower than 5,500. WTF is the deal here?

When is come to tuning the tranny for WOT shifting, the values it's giving me are as follows: -1, -2, -3, 0, and 1-7 o nthe positive side. What does this mean? I have it set to -1 right now and I can't tell a large difference in hwo it shifted at wide open before the tuner.

I need to also adjust the shift pressure to 5 instead of 10 because it revs all the way up to 3,000 rpm still from 1 to 2 and thats just no good for daily driving. I need want to make it a fun daily driver. I have got to get this rev limiter thing figured out...someone has to know how to fix this.
 

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You have messed with too many things right now. You need to put everything you can back to stock and make small adjustments from there. The only thing I can think of for now is that if you drop the rev limiter all the way but leave the WOT shiftpoints the same, of course it will bounce off the limiter. It is not getting up to the appropriate speed in each gear to reach the commanded shiftpoint when WOT.
 

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LT's, mid pipe, mufflers, auto tranny with stiffer springs and tranny cooler. Tranny has never done it but I think its nothing to worry about.

Guys, my main questions are as follows: Why is my car bouncing off the rev limiter when I step on it in any gear? I have the Rev Limiter set to the LOWEST rpms it will let me go, 5,500. It won't go lower than 5,500. WTF is the deal here?

When is come to tuning the tranny for WOT shifting, the values it's giving me are as follows: -1, -2, -3, 0, and 1-7 o nthe positive side. What does this mean? I have it set to -1 right now and I can't tell a large difference in hwo it shifted at wide open before the tuner.

I need to also adjust the shift pressure to 5 instead of 10 because it revs all the way up to 3,000 rpm still from 1 to 2 and thats just no good for daily driving. I need want to make it a fun daily driver. I have got to get this rev limiter thing figured out...someone has to know how to fix this.
Lol all of that crap confused me too. I messed with it one day and my car wouldnt even downshift when I was rolling and floored it. There was less confusion with my diablo tuner I had before the sct it had part throttle shift pressure and also WOT shift pressure they both had the same sclae 0-180psi. The sct doesnt have those same options but they both kinda do the same thing. Mine was also shifting at like 3000rpm even when just putting around town the wife couldnt stand it. But the guy who installed my blower and tuned the car fixed the shift point issue. I wouldnt mess withh too much on there if i was you. Only the things you are familiar with.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Long story short, tonight when I was trying to load the tune back to stock to play around with my options some more, the tuner and car shut off. After checking multiple fuses, none of which were blown, I looked at the battery. It is a Motorcraft and it has the clear eye to see through. My mechanic says its prob the original battery because even on replacement Motorcraft stuff they didn't use the eye.

With that being said, I believe the tuner shut off because the battery does not have enough juice to power the tuner and system, etc. This would explain why sometimes my car will surge or even die on me while driving. Stupid battery. Now, I just have to decide what brand to go with.

Most of me thinks I should just get an Optima Red Top to be safe. Any other suggestions so I can save money?

Back to the tuner. After I get it working again, I plan on returning the tune back to stock, unplugging it, and them immediately plugging it back in to adjust the parameters I want. Does this sound OK to do?

I called AM Bama today and I can get a custom tune written for $50. Should I just do that guys? Help please!
 

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.

With that being said, I believe the tuner shut off because the battery does not have enough juice to power the tuner and system, etc. This would explain why sometimes my car will surge or even die on me while driving. Stupid battery. Now, I just have to decide what brand to go with.
Most of me thinks I should just get an Optima Red Top to be safe. Any other suggestions so I can save money?

Back to the tuner. After I get it working again, I plan on returning the tune back to stock, unplugging it, and them immediately plugging it back in to adjust the parameters I want. Does this sound OK to do?

I called AM Bama today and I can get a custom tune written for $50. Should I just do that guys? Help please![/QUOTE]

I have had the factrory battery in mine since 03 and a battery shouldnt cause it to die while you are driving you can start your car and disconnect your battery and it will keep running bc of the generator/altenator. One of my older cars use to cut out when driving every blue moon I replaced the battery which wasnt bad but that wasnt the problem the problem was the alternator.

As far as your tuner plans that sounds ok. And there is nothing wrong with getting a custom tune done that way you dont end up messing anything up. But get that alternator chhecked out at a battery shop or parts store they will know what to do when you ask them to check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK, thanks Rockwell I will do that. If I were to change the alternator, would I want a direct factory Motorcraft replacement or go for an aftermarket one that is better for running a small system and HID lights and all of the jazz. Do you have any specific ones in mind?
 

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no problem .nah no specific ones in mind tha hid's shouldnt be too heavy of a drain to warrant a high output alternator you should be fine. I ran a 1400 watt amp in my car for the 1st 4 years with the factory battery and alternator for the past 2 years ive hadd the 1800watt amp in there with the same battery and alternator. Factory should be fine idk how much they are at parts stores but they shouldnt be too much.
 
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